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[C6 Answers] What do I need to install an amplifier?
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
[C6 Answers] What do I need to install an amplifier?
Aftermarket Amplifier
The second in the series of my [C6 Answers] threads, this one will address what you need to install an aftermarket amplifier. Whether you're doing this to add a sub or to drive a set of aftermarket speakers the basic requirements are the same. I will include a few more how-to types of tips in this post as the task is more generic than that of installing a head. The basic things needed to be addressed with this install are power, ground, signal source, trigger and where to mount the amp(s).
The first thing you need for your amp is power. For an aftermarket amp you CANNOT just tap an existing circuit in the car, the power draw is just too large and you won't get the juice you need. This means you need to run a new power line back from the battery to your mounting position. For those who have done this many times it often makes more sense to buy the individual pieces you need, but for those who aren't sure or just like the convenience there are many amplifier installation wiring kits out there. You can find them from folks like Knukonceptz, Stinger, Streetwires, etc. Typically the kits will give you a length of power wire, ground wire, a fuse, RCA interconnects and some ring terminals. Which guage wire you use depends on your plans but for most folks a 4 guage kit is more than enough. 8 is probably sufficient for a lot of uses, but I figure if you're going to do the work you may as well go bigger than you need for the nearly-inevitable upgrade fever to come.
You want to mount the fuse, or if you prefer a circuit breaker (my choice), close to the battery with as short a lead from the battery to the fuse/breaker as possible. There is a flat spot on the fender well facing the rear of the car that I have found to be very useful for that. Here's a pic of my convertible's setup showing the lead from the battery to the breaker mounted in that spot:
http://www.lazyassgeek.com/photos/al...28Large%29.jpg
Then you need to run the output of the fuse/breaker into the car. You have two choices here, you can make use of the factory grommet or drill a hole in the firewall and use a compression grommet. Folks have done it both ways and the factory grommet is certainly easier, but I'm a bit on the paranoid side and I installed a compression grommet. This picture shows both the compression grommet I used and to the left the hole where the factory grommet goes. These both enter the car in the passenger footwell above the fuse blocks. I pulled the screws from the fuse block to make it easier to get to that area. Once you have it in the car running the wire under the carpet by the rockers and up the B pillar into the car is a piece of cake.
OK so now you have power so you need ground. The factory ground spot on the B pillar is easily accesible and works very well. Ideally your ground wire would be as short as possible, but if you're mounting the amp(s) in the rear the only choice there would be to drill through the trunk and ground to the frame. I choose the lesser of the evils and run a longer ground to the B pillar mount. Here's a pic that shows the spot:
http://www.lazyassgeek.com/photos/al...28Large%29.jpg
The next thing you need is a signal source to feed that amp. If you're installing an aftermarket head then that's simple, plug in the RCA's and go. However since many folks prefer to keep the dash looking stock they want to keep the factory head unit. The good news here is that there is line-level (non-amplified/RCA) signal available at the head unit. You can just tap into those wires but it's much cleaner to leave your factory harness unmolested and make use of a simple PAC Audio wiring harness (ADD-GM24) to create this connection. Here's a thread that details how to make this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...r-harness.html
If you get alternator whine feeding the amp from the factory head (very common!) you may need to put ground loop isolators in-line to kill that. Here's an example:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=265-012
So now we have power, ground and signal feeding the amp, so now we have to get the darned thing to turn on only when we want it. Previously it was thought that there was not an ignition switched 12V source in the factory harness, but that turns out to not be the case. It's just that the source comes on early and shuts off late as the car needs the factory amp on in order to generate the chimes. Here's the details on what wire you need to use for this trigger:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569336249-post9.html
The last subject of this post is mounting location. This is much less straight-forward but I'll touch on a few possibilities. If you're installing one of the Class D, small form factor amps like the Alpine PDX or JL HD amps they will fit in the cubbies. If you have Onstar you'll have to use the driver's side as there's a box mounted in the passenger cubby. A few folks have mounted the ARC mini amps in the passenger footwell where the factory Bose or Delco amps are mounted, but I have no personal experience to share with you there. If you feel like you can give up some leg room, particularly on the passenger side, some have mounted the amps to the back wall either using a board glued to the wall under the carpet (do NOT drive screws into the wall there, the gas tanks are back there!!!) or a metal strap hanger. The last options are the create an amp rack/sled in the hatch area (coupe & Z06) or trunk (convertible). How you mount the amp will depend entirely on what you're installing and personal preference.
Again, this is not meant to be a comprehensive how-to and I skipped a good number of installation details. This is to give folks an idea of what needs to be done specifically for the C6. Also again, please feel free to let me know what I forgot or got wrong!
The second in the series of my [C6 Answers] threads, this one will address what you need to install an aftermarket amplifier. Whether you're doing this to add a sub or to drive a set of aftermarket speakers the basic requirements are the same. I will include a few more how-to types of tips in this post as the task is more generic than that of installing a head. The basic things needed to be addressed with this install are power, ground, signal source, trigger and where to mount the amp(s).
The first thing you need for your amp is power. For an aftermarket amp you CANNOT just tap an existing circuit in the car, the power draw is just too large and you won't get the juice you need. This means you need to run a new power line back from the battery to your mounting position. For those who have done this many times it often makes more sense to buy the individual pieces you need, but for those who aren't sure or just like the convenience there are many amplifier installation wiring kits out there. You can find them from folks like Knukonceptz, Stinger, Streetwires, etc. Typically the kits will give you a length of power wire, ground wire, a fuse, RCA interconnects and some ring terminals. Which guage wire you use depends on your plans but for most folks a 4 guage kit is more than enough. 8 is probably sufficient for a lot of uses, but I figure if you're going to do the work you may as well go bigger than you need for the nearly-inevitable upgrade fever to come.
You want to mount the fuse, or if you prefer a circuit breaker (my choice), close to the battery with as short a lead from the battery to the fuse/breaker as possible. There is a flat spot on the fender well facing the rear of the car that I have found to be very useful for that. Here's a pic of my convertible's setup showing the lead from the battery to the breaker mounted in that spot:
http://www.lazyassgeek.com/photos/al...28Large%29.jpg
Then you need to run the output of the fuse/breaker into the car. You have two choices here, you can make use of the factory grommet or drill a hole in the firewall and use a compression grommet. Folks have done it both ways and the factory grommet is certainly easier, but I'm a bit on the paranoid side and I installed a compression grommet. This picture shows both the compression grommet I used and to the left the hole where the factory grommet goes. These both enter the car in the passenger footwell above the fuse blocks. I pulled the screws from the fuse block to make it easier to get to that area. Once you have it in the car running the wire under the carpet by the rockers and up the B pillar into the car is a piece of cake.
OK so now you have power so you need ground. The factory ground spot on the B pillar is easily accesible and works very well. Ideally your ground wire would be as short as possible, but if you're mounting the amp(s) in the rear the only choice there would be to drill through the trunk and ground to the frame. I choose the lesser of the evils and run a longer ground to the B pillar mount. Here's a pic that shows the spot:
http://www.lazyassgeek.com/photos/al...28Large%29.jpg
The next thing you need is a signal source to feed that amp. If you're installing an aftermarket head then that's simple, plug in the RCA's and go. However since many folks prefer to keep the dash looking stock they want to keep the factory head unit. The good news here is that there is line-level (non-amplified/RCA) signal available at the head unit. You can just tap into those wires but it's much cleaner to leave your factory harness unmolested and make use of a simple PAC Audio wiring harness (ADD-GM24) to create this connection. Here's a thread that details how to make this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...r-harness.html
If you get alternator whine feeding the amp from the factory head (very common!) you may need to put ground loop isolators in-line to kill that. Here's an example:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=265-012
So now we have power, ground and signal feeding the amp, so now we have to get the darned thing to turn on only when we want it. Previously it was thought that there was not an ignition switched 12V source in the factory harness, but that turns out to not be the case. It's just that the source comes on early and shuts off late as the car needs the factory amp on in order to generate the chimes. Here's the details on what wire you need to use for this trigger:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569336249-post9.html
The last subject of this post is mounting location. This is much less straight-forward but I'll touch on a few possibilities. If you're installing one of the Class D, small form factor amps like the Alpine PDX or JL HD amps they will fit in the cubbies. If you have Onstar you'll have to use the driver's side as there's a box mounted in the passenger cubby. A few folks have mounted the ARC mini amps in the passenger footwell where the factory Bose or Delco amps are mounted, but I have no personal experience to share with you there. If you feel like you can give up some leg room, particularly on the passenger side, some have mounted the amps to the back wall either using a board glued to the wall under the carpet (do NOT drive screws into the wall there, the gas tanks are back there!!!) or a metal strap hanger. The last options are the create an amp rack/sled in the hatch area (coupe & Z06) or trunk (convertible). How you mount the amp will depend entirely on what you're installing and personal preference.
Again, this is not meant to be a comprehensive how-to and I skipped a good number of installation details. This is to give folks an idea of what needs to be done specifically for the C6. Also again, please feel free to let me know what I forgot or got wrong!
#2
Drifting
NICE! Thanks, that's awesome info!
The only question I have is the remote wire. After looking at your link on the harness, I noticed it had the "universal" blue wire with a white stripe. Is that not the remote or "trigger" wire as you refer to it? That said, wouldn't it be better to tap into the ACC +, or even the A/C + as they are controlled strictly by the ACC turn on?
That would fix any issues with the amp turning on before the signal causing the speaker POP.
What do you think?
The only question I have is the remote wire. After looking at your link on the harness, I noticed it had the "universal" blue wire with a white stripe. Is that not the remote or "trigger" wire as you refer to it? That said, wouldn't it be better to tap into the ACC +, or even the A/C + as they are controlled strictly by the ACC turn on?
That would fix any issues with the amp turning on before the signal causing the speaker POP.
What do you think?
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
NICE! Thanks, that's awesome info!
The only question I have is the remote wire. After looking at your link on the harness, I noticed it had the "universal" blue wire with a white stripe. Is that not the remote or "trigger" wire as you refer to it? That said, wouldn't it be better to tap into the ACC +, or even the A/C + as they are controlled strictly by the ACC turn on?
That would fix any issues with the amp turning on before the signal causing the speaker POP.
What do you think?
The only question I have is the remote wire. After looking at your link on the harness, I noticed it had the "universal" blue wire with a white stripe. Is that not the remote or "trigger" wire as you refer to it? That said, wouldn't it be better to tap into the ACC +, or even the A/C + as they are controlled strictly by the ACC turn on?
That would fix any issues with the amp turning on before the signal causing the speaker POP.
What do you think?
#4
16 Vettes and counting…..
Does the PAC ADD-GM24 work with an '07 Navigation head unit?
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#8
16 Vettes and counting…..
I am replacing the Bose amp and speakers but keeping the factory NAV head unit. If I wanted to keep Onstar, how can this be done? Did a search, couldn't find the answer.
#10
16 Vettes and counting…..
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago Illinois
Posts: 1,294
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on
16 Posts
St. Jude Donor '12
Aftermarket Amplifier
Previously it was thought that there was not an ignition switched 12V source in the factory harness, but that turns out to not be the case. It's just that the source comes on early and shuts off late as the car needs the factory amp on in order to generate the chimes. Here's the details on what wire you need to use for this trigger:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569336249-post9.html
Previously it was thought that there was not an ignition switched 12V source in the factory harness, but that turns out to not be the case. It's just that the source comes on early and shuts off late as the car needs the factory amp on in order to generate the chimes. Here's the details on what wire you need to use for this trigger:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569336249-post9.html
#13
Tech Contributor
i intend to retain factor nav w/ aftermarket amp. i would like a clean install with the ability to revert to stock. what source would be best for the trigger wire? white wire at pin B3 of the main connector or something from the fuse box that works in accessory mode (i believe pentavolvo suggested windshield wipers or heated seats)? would i use a wire tap for wire B3 or a fuse tap for the fuse box?