Pioneer z110bt display not dimming with lights on, what did I do wrong?
03-12-2010, 10:58 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: "This is not a psychotic episode, but a cleansing moment of clarity."
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Pioneer z110bt display not dimming with lights on, what did I do wrong?
The HU is in and working great in most respects in my '02 C5. But I noticed that the display does not dim when the lights are turned on, even with it set to "automatic". If I recall correctly, I simply connected the orange/white wire to the corresponding orange/white on the PAC harness, which I thought should do the trick. Was I not supposed to do that? 
03-12-2010, 11:21 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
IIRC there isn't a dimmer wire in the stock radio harness, in C5 you need to connect the orange/white wire from the new hu to...
-in automatic HVAC unit the yellow wire at C16 of the big plug (pic)
-in manual HVAC unit, looks like the yellow wire at pin J of the 12-pin plug
-in automatic HVAC unit the yellow wire at C16 of the big plug (pic)
-in manual HVAC unit, looks like the yellow wire at pin J of the 12-pin plug
03-13-2010, 12:04 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: "This is not a psychotic episode, but a cleansing moment of clarity."
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Thank you. I guess I was a little confused because as I recall, the radio illumination dimmed with the rheostat that dims all the other interior lights in the car. Okay, no problem. I need to pull the HU again anyway, so this will be an easy thing to fix. Thank again...
03-19-2010, 12:37 AM
#4
Advanced
JMc - can you help me out with the wiring for this unit? I ahve an 03 vette I am putting this exact unit in.
1. First off, what harness did you use? Did you use the Soundgate GMCRV2?
2. Also, where did you tap into the VSS wire at? What does this do? I know it needs to be done from what I have read, but I am not sure what this does?
3. How do you get video while driving? What hack is needed for this?
4. Lastly, where did you connect to 12V acc. power at? The brown wire by the ignition?
Thanks!
1. First off, what harness did you use? Did you use the Soundgate GMCRV2?
2. Also, where did you tap into the VSS wire at? What does this do? I know it needs to be done from what I have read, but I am not sure what this does?
3. How do you get video while driving? What hack is needed for this?
4. Lastly, where did you connect to 12V acc. power at? The brown wire by the ignition?
Thanks!
03-19-2010, 02:38 AM
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: "This is not a psychotic episode, but a cleansing moment of clarity."
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Sure, Hobes, glad to help.
1. Read this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...vi-2004-a.html
I went with the PAC ROEM VET1 harness adapter, but the Metra offers a nice advantage that the PAC does not, namely, the retention of the RAP (retained accessory power) for the radio after the key is turned off and/or removed, so the new head unit will operate just as the stock one does. I wound up having to buy yet another adapter to get that function back. So, I would advise you to do more research into the Metra, because it seems to me like it might be the way to go.
2. It is NOT mandatory to tap into the VSS wire, but doing so apparently improves GPS performance and delivers a few more bells and whistles that not connecting it misses out on. You tap into it via the harness behind the gauge cluster, which has to be removed in order to get to it. I GLADLY paid a local installer $65 to do the connection for me. I handled everything else. I just didn't want to mess with pulling the gauge pod.
3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7H0iJoEGNo (it works).
More helpful detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3NL8...eature=related
4. Yes, right below the ignition switch. I scraped off a short section of insulation, wrapped the yellow wire around it and soldered the connection, before wrapping it in vinyl tape.
HOWEVER, the use of the Metra adapter may make this step unnecessary! I'm not sure about that, though. So again, you'll need to research it.
BTW, GREAT unit. I just used the nav tonight for the first time and it worked great.
1. Read this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...vi-2004-a.html
I went with the PAC ROEM VET1 harness adapter, but the Metra offers a nice advantage that the PAC does not, namely, the retention of the RAP (retained accessory power) for the radio after the key is turned off and/or removed, so the new head unit will operate just as the stock one does. I wound up having to buy yet another adapter to get that function back. So, I would advise you to do more research into the Metra, because it seems to me like it might be the way to go.
2. It is NOT mandatory to tap into the VSS wire, but doing so apparently improves GPS performance and delivers a few more bells and whistles that not connecting it misses out on. You tap into it via the harness behind the gauge cluster, which has to be removed in order to get to it. I GLADLY paid a local installer $65 to do the connection for me. I handled everything else. I just didn't want to mess with pulling the gauge pod.
3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7H0iJoEGNo (it works).
More helpful detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3NL8...eature=related
4. Yes, right below the ignition switch. I scraped off a short section of insulation, wrapped the yellow wire around it and soldered the connection, before wrapping it in vinyl tape.
HOWEVER, the use of the Metra adapter may make this step unnecessary! I'm not sure about that, though. So again, you'll need to research it.
BTW, GREAT unit. I just used the nav tonight for the first time and it worked great.
03-19-2010, 10:47 AM
#6
Advanced
Sure, Hobes, glad to help.
1. Read this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...vi-2004-a.html
I went with the PAC ROEM VET1 harness adapter, but the Metra offers a nice advantage that the PAC does not, namely, the retention of the RAP (retained accessory power) for the radio after the key is turned off and/or removed, so the new head unit will operate just as the stock one does. I wound up having to buy yet another adapter to get that function back. So, I would advise you to do more research into the Metra, because it seems to me like it might be the way to go.
2. It is NOT mandatory to tap into the VSS wire, but doing so apparently improves GPS performance and delivers a few more bells and whistles that not connecting it misses out on. You tap into it via the harness behind the gauge cluster, which has to be removed in order to get to it. I GLADLY paid a local installer $65 to do the connection for me. I handled everything else. I just didn't want to mess with pulling the gauge pod.
3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7H0iJoEGNo (it works).
More helpful detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3NL8...eature=related
4. Yes, right below the ignition switch. I scraped off a short section of insulation, wrapped the yellow wire around it and soldered the connection, before wrapping it in vinyl tape.
HOWEVER, the use of the Metra adapter may make this step unnecessary! I'm not sure about that, though. So again, you'll need to research it.
BTW, GREAT unit. I just used the nav tonight for the first time and it worked great.
1. Read this thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...vi-2004-a.html
I went with the PAC ROEM VET1 harness adapter, but the Metra offers a nice advantage that the PAC does not, namely, the retention of the RAP (retained accessory power) for the radio after the key is turned off and/or removed, so the new head unit will operate just as the stock one does. I wound up having to buy yet another adapter to get that function back. So, I would advise you to do more research into the Metra, because it seems to me like it might be the way to go.
2. It is NOT mandatory to tap into the VSS wire, but doing so apparently improves GPS performance and delivers a few more bells and whistles that not connecting it misses out on. You tap into it via the harness behind the gauge cluster, which has to be removed in order to get to it. I GLADLY paid a local installer $65 to do the connection for me. I handled everything else. I just didn't want to mess with pulling the gauge pod.
3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7H0iJoEGNo (it works).
More helpful detail: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3NL8...eature=related
4. Yes, right below the ignition switch. I scraped off a short section of insulation, wrapped the yellow wire around it and soldered the connection, before wrapping it in vinyl tape.
HOWEVER, the use of the Metra adapter may make this step unnecessary! I'm not sure about that, though. So again, you'll need to research it.
BTW, GREAT unit. I just used the nav tonight for the first time and it worked great.
03-19-2010, 11:25 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: "This is not a psychotic episode, but a cleansing moment of clarity."
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
The black trim around the bezel to fill the gaps on the side?
You want to laugh?
It's about as low tech as it gets.
I'm having a custom bezel made and while I wait for it, I took this one and just hit some blue painter's tape with some flat black paint and carefully adhered it to the outermost front edges of the HU (the part that stays stationary all the time) before putting the bezel back on.
It actually looks pretty good!!
You want to laugh?
It's about as low tech as it gets.
I'm having a custom bezel made and while I wait for it, I took this one and just hit some blue painter's tape with some flat black paint and carefully adhered it to the outermost front edges of the HU (the part that stays stationary all the time) before putting the bezel back on.
It actually looks pretty good!!
03-19-2010, 11:31 AM
#8
Advanced
The black trim around the bezel to fill the gaps on the side?
You want to laugh?
It's about as low tech as it gets.
I'm having a custom bezel made and while I wait for it, I took this one and just hit some blue painter's tape with some flat black paint and carefully adhered it to the outermost front edges of the HU (the part that stays stationary all the time) before putting the bezel back on.
It actually looks pretty good!!
You want to laugh?
It's about as low tech as it gets.
I'm having a custom bezel made and while I wait for it, I took this one and just hit some blue painter's tape with some flat black paint and carefully adhered it to the outermost front edges of the HU (the part that stays stationary all the time) before putting the bezel back on.
It actually looks pretty good!!
03-19-2010, 07:27 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
you don't want to connect this to the dimmer circuit. I have mine connected to it now but its being fixed. that doesn't work right. you will find that the unit dims opposite of the car's dimmer, the dimmer you turn the interior lights the brighter the AVIC gets. I started a thread on AVIC411 about it, according to the experts there this navi does not accept a dimmer signal, its looking for a lights on/off signal, 0V with the lights off, 12V with them on. its not supposed to dim, its supposed to be a night mode.
the install manual doesn't explain this well. I have a circuit which I added which is 12V with the headlights on only, but not with the parking lights which is the way I like it since I use my parking lights 24/7, I only want the navi to go into night mode when the full headlights are on.
my permanent bezel should be back middle of next week, I'll fix that wire when I swap them out.
the install manual doesn't explain this well. I have a circuit which I added which is 12V with the headlights on only, but not with the parking lights which is the way I like it since I use my parking lights 24/7, I only want the navi to go into night mode when the full headlights are on.
my permanent bezel should be back middle of next week, I'll fix that wire when I swap them out.
03-19-2010, 10:50 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: "This is not a psychotic episode, but a cleansing moment of clarity."
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I noticed what you're saying about the dimming wire, but I've got no problem with it. I don't adjust my interior lights much with the dimmer switch and it throws the unit into night mode when I turn the lights on (I do not run parking lights all day) and that's all I wanted it to do.
03-20-2010, 09:38 AM
#11
Tech Contributor
you don't want to connect this to the dimmer circuit. I have mine connected to it now but its being fixed. that doesn't work right. you will find that the unit dims opposite of the car's dimmer, the dimmer you turn the interior lights the brighter the AVIC gets. I started a thread on AVIC411 about it, according to the experts there this navi does not accept a dimmer signal, its looking for a lights on/off signal, 0V with the lights off, 12V with them on. its not supposed to dim, its supposed to be a night mode.
the install manual doesn't explain this well. I have a circuit which I added which is 12V with the headlights on only, but not with the parking lights which is the way I like it since I use my parking lights 24/7, I only want the navi to go into night mode when the full headlights are on.
my permanent bezel should be back middle of next week, I'll fix that wire when I swap them out.
the install manual doesn't explain this well. I have a circuit which I added which is 12V with the headlights on only, but not with the parking lights which is the way I like it since I use my parking lights 24/7, I only want the navi to go into night mode when the full headlights are on.
my permanent bezel should be back middle of next week, I'll fix that wire when I swap them out.
03-20-2010, 09:51 AM
#12
Burning Brakes
I am in the same boat.
On my Pioneer AVIC-Z2 wiring diagram, they call out for the power lead pigtail off the unit:
- orange/white: To lighting switch terminal.
On the Metra wiring diagram, they call out:
- Orange - Illumination
- Orange/white - Dimmer.
HOWEVER: there is no Orange wire on the Metra, ONLY the Orange/white wire.
With above being said: all other wire colors & their respective uses match between the Metra and the AVIC. Therefore since I don't have any other choice between the Metra and the AVIC, I was going to attach Orange/white to Orange/white. I assumed I may end not having a dimming ability.
Even if I come off the HVAC wire, where would I attach to the AVIC?
In the Metra case: since it retains RAP etc, in essence it interfaces the HU to function per the stock HU, I am thinking that the dimming ability may be handled in the Metra housing and sent thru the same Orange/white wire.
But I am a week away to confirm this.
On my Pioneer AVIC-Z2 wiring diagram, they call out for the power lead pigtail off the unit:
- orange/white: To lighting switch terminal.
On the Metra wiring diagram, they call out:
- Orange - Illumination
- Orange/white - Dimmer.
HOWEVER: there is no Orange wire on the Metra, ONLY the Orange/white wire.
With above being said: all other wire colors & their respective uses match between the Metra and the AVIC. Therefore since I don't have any other choice between the Metra and the AVIC, I was going to attach Orange/white to Orange/white. I assumed I may end not having a dimming ability.
Even if I come off the HVAC wire, where would I attach to the AVIC?
In the Metra case: since it retains RAP etc, in essence it interfaces the HU to function per the stock HU, I am thinking that the dimming ability may be handled in the Metra housing and sent thru the same Orange/white wire.
But I am a week away to confirm this.
03-20-2010, 11:15 AM
#13
Tech Contributor
As far as I'm aware, there are no interface adapters made for C5 or C6 that have functional dimmer or illumination wires coming out of the adapter harness. They all seem to have orange or orange/white wires, but those wires are used for other applications, not vettes.
If your HU needs to be connected to the true dimmer circuit, tap into the HVAC wire.
If your HU needs +12v when the lights are on, unless McGilles found an easier wire, I'd use the tan wire at pin L of the big black plug under the steering column (C209). Click here for the pinout of that plug.
If you can't tell which wire you need from the HU instructions, you can try your luck at 50/50/90, or find a forum dedicated to that brand and ask there if you can't find it in a search. However, according to the way I'm reading the "EIA standards" that most companies seem to follow, if the HU has an orange wire it should be connected to the headlight circuit, if the HU has an orange/white wire it should be connected to the dimmer circuit.
If your HU needs to be connected to the true dimmer circuit, tap into the HVAC wire.
If your HU needs +12v when the lights are on, unless McGilles found an easier wire, I'd use the tan wire at pin L of the big black plug under the steering column (C209). Click here for the pinout of that plug.
If you can't tell which wire you need from the HU instructions, you can try your luck at 50/50/90, or find a forum dedicated to that brand and ask there if you can't find it in a search. However, according to the way I'm reading the "EIA standards" that most companies seem to follow, if the HU has an orange wire it should be connected to the headlight circuit, if the HU has an orange/white wire it should be connected to the dimmer circuit.
03-20-2010, 12:30 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
If your HU needs +12v when the lights are on, unless McGilles found an easier wire, I'd use the tan wire at pin L of the big black plug under the steering column (C209). Click here for the pinout of that plug.
I went to the AVIC-411 site, and it appears the Z2 just needs +12V when the lights are on. It autodims inside the unit.
Thanks. I'll keep moving forward.
03-20-2010, 12:50 PM
#15
Drifting
I had a similar dimming problem with my AVIC N4.
I had to add a transistor and a couple of resistors to make an inverter for the dimming signal as it is opposite to what the N4 wanted to "see" to work correctly.
Posted the fix.
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15665
I had to add a transistor and a couple of resistors to make an inverter for the dimming signal as it is opposite to what the N4 wanted to "see" to work correctly.
Posted the fix.
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15665
Last edited by heavymetals; 03-20-2010 at 01:25 PM.
11-22-2011, 01:19 PM
#16
Cruising
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Kingwood Texas
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Where is this 12-pin plug located
Where is this 12-pin plug located?
I have a C5 1999 with a manual HVAC unit and standed shift.
Phil
11-22-2011, 04:23 PM
#18
Tech Contributor
11-23-2011, 10:41 AM
#19
Cruising
Member Since: Feb 2008
Location: Kingwood Texas
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pioneer Z130BT Light dimming Electric Plug problem
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Thank you for the fast reply.
Problem is that to my Manual HVAC panel there is an 8 pin black plug and not a 12pin black plug. I need to know where to connect the orange/white wire from the Pioneer Z130BT unit so the unit light dims when I put the headlights on. I tried attaching the orange/white radio wire to the cream colored wire and then to the yellow wires on my 8 pin black plug, but the unit didn't dim when I put on the lights. I don't know how to insert an image so I could show you the connector on the back of the HVAC panel which has an 8 pin plug. If you give me your e mail address I could sent you pictures of whats behind my HVAC panel.
Thank you for the fast reply.
Problem is that to my Manual HVAC panel there is an 8 pin black plug and not a 12pin black plug. I need to know where to connect the orange/white wire from the Pioneer Z130BT unit so the unit light dims when I put the headlights on. I tried attaching the orange/white radio wire to the cream colored wire and then to the yellow wires on my 8 pin black plug, but the unit didn't dim when I put on the lights. I don't know how to insert an image so I could show you the connector on the back of the HVAC panel which has an 8 pin plug. If you give me your e mail address I could sent you pictures of whats behind my HVAC panel.
Last edited by philinhouston; 11-23-2011 at 10:58 AM.
01-07-2016, 12:07 PM
#20
Racer
I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to make an improvement on the suggestion.
If the headunit needs 12v+ input when the headlights are on. You should Use the White wire at Pin S of C209 or trace the same wire to Pin D3 of the IP Fuse block in the foot well.
The Tan wire previously recommended is only hot with the low beams turned on. If you switch to high beams, the head unit will switch back to daytime mode.
The White wire will stay hot in both the Low & High positions.
If the headunit needs 12v+ input when the headlights are on. You should Use the White wire at Pin S of C209 or trace the same wire to Pin D3 of the IP Fuse block in the foot well.
The Tan wire previously recommended is only hot with the low beams turned on. If you switch to high beams, the head unit will switch back to daytime mode.
The White wire will stay hot in both the Low & High positions.
As far as I'm aware, there are no interface adapters made for C5 or C6 that have functional dimmer or illumination wires coming out of the adapter harness. They all seem to have orange or orange/white wires, but those wires are used for other applications, not vettes.
If your HU needs to be connected to the true dimmer circuit, tap into the HVAC wire.
If your HU needs +12v when the lights are on, unless McGilles found an easier wire, I'd use the tan wire at pin L of the big black plug under the steering column (C209). Click here for the pinout of that plug.
If you can't tell which wire you need from the HU instructions, you can try your luck at 50/50/90, or find a forum dedicated to that brand and ask there if you can't find it in a search. However, according to the way I'm reading the "EIA standards" that most companies seem to follow, if the HU has an orange wire it should be connected to the headlight circuit, if the HU has an orange/white wire it should be connected to the dimmer circuit.
If your HU needs to be connected to the true dimmer circuit, tap into the HVAC wire.
If your HU needs +12v when the lights are on, unless McGilles found an easier wire, I'd use the tan wire at pin L of the big black plug under the steering column (C209). Click here for the pinout of that plug.
If you can't tell which wire you need from the HU instructions, you can try your luck at 50/50/90, or find a forum dedicated to that brand and ask there if you can't find it in a search. However, according to the way I'm reading the "EIA standards" that most companies seem to follow, if the HU has an orange wire it should be connected to the headlight circuit, if the HU has an orange/white wire it should be connected to the dimmer circuit.
