HIS4

I'm not totally familiar with the C6 since I don't own one but my brother asked me to look into the possibility of doing a system in his since I just finished a system in my 2009 M3. I'm looking to keep it as simple as possible while still getting some decent sound out of it. Searching through the forum I see that his 06 C6 w/bose has an OEM 10" in each door, a 3.5" coax higher in the door, a worthless 3.5" center and a pair 5.25" in the rear. It seems like everyone who has done some kind of upgrade has replaced the 10" with a 6.5" and the 3.5" with a 1" tweeter and then added a trunk mounted sub. Because the trunk space is important to him, we're looking to not put any equipment in the trunk. So my ideas were to replace the OEM 10" with either another shallow 10" or a shallow 8" and then replace the 3.5" with a 4" point source type component set that would allow the tweeter to be mounted right over the mid like the old a/d/s A4im. My question is, what is the depth limitations in the 10" space and the 3.5" space? I can't figure out why no one has tried an 8" or 10" but I'm assuming depth is a major issue.

For an amp, we'd probably go with a 5 or six channel amp to run the speakers in the front door active. The car already has an AVIC-D3 and I would probably use the internal amp to run the rear 5.25". I'd probably just put back a mid if anything to keep them from pulling the soundstage back.

Any ideas or info would help. If anyone has a good link to an install similar to what I'm thinking about, I'd appreciate a post to the link.

Thanks!

TheKomoman

There's around 3.5-4" of depth in the doors, but the reason it's not done is because doors make LOUSY sub enclosures. You can't seal them, you get reflections off the window when it's down and you rattle the hell out of everything that's in there.

Also I think that the gap from how low a 4" can go to how high even an 8" can play would leave you a gaping midbass hole. For my listening preferences that would never work.

As always, the quality of a system is in the ear of the beholder.

ncvette_1FUNRIDE

You can use a 10" shallow mounted sub in a 'stealth box' in one of the rear corners of the hatch area without using much space at all and you can still put your top back there when you want to.


Check here, post number 6:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/audi...es-please.html
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HIS4

Unfortunately its not just the top he's trying to store back there. He uses every bit of space available when he throws all his equipment back there so he was trying to keep the space totally clear except for maybe an amp.

Thanks for the info. So the location for the OEM 3.5" also has 3.5" of depth? I did wonder about the window rattling around in there and how solid I could make the door even with sound damping material. My own system uses 4" mids transitioning to an 8" sub. The mid has to be chosen very carefully to ensure that you do close that gap as much as possible. The fact that the sub is in the front of the car is a big factor in getting that to work as you will have to play the sub a little higher than you normally would. With it being up front, you worry less about pulling the soundstage back by playing the sub a little higher.

The system in my BMW consists of a Zapco DC650.6 getting signal from the OEM head unit. The DC650.6 runs a pair of a/d/s px concept tweeters in each front door, 4" a/d/s 344is mids in the front doors, and an Earthquake SWS 8" subs mounted under each front seat. The sub locations are the factory locations with the OEM enclosure modified to fit the new sub. The tweeters play from 5kHz up, the mids play between 100Hz and 5kHz and the subs play 80Hz and down. It sounds really crazy but for some reason it works really well. After years of doing the sub enclosure in the trunk, I'm really surprised at how much better things can sound when all the main drivers are at the front of the car. That's part of the reason I was looking into the option of reusing the OEM woofer location.

Here's some pictures of what I did in the BMW. Its really just a simple amp and speaker upgrade but it made a huge difference.

This is the Zapco amp mounted in the factory false floor space


Here's a picture of the signal tap to run the line output of the OEM head unit to the amp. Luckily the OEM head unit uses balanced line level signals so its a straight signal tap into the new amp. No line output converters or OEM interface devices required. I cut the factory wiring and installed the molex connectors to make returning to stock as easy as unplugging the Zapco and reconnecting the factory amp. That floating connector in the background is the amp side of the OEM wiring that will remain disconnected until I need to return the system to stock.


The a/d/s 344is mids mounted on the front door panels. Custom adapters CNCd from 6061 aluminum were made to mount the standard 4 hole mount a/d/s to the factory 3 hole mount location.


Here's a picture of the SWS-8 mounted in the factory sub enclosure. The enclosure is open on one end and when installed in the car it vents into a larger enclosed cavity under the floor. There is debate whether this is considered a sealed enclosure or IB since no one knows how big the cavity actually is. The binding post terminals were added to allow for easier connection to the aftermarket wiring and close up a gap in the OEM enclosure that was occupied by the OEM wiring termination block.


Thanks again for the help guys. Hopefully I can come up with some good ideas for the C6 that will keep this car as functional as possible.

vett79

Will the Earthquake 8 inch work as a replacement to the C5 Bose 8 inch since its 2 ohm? I'm looking for ultra simple. Dumb idea..
I've got Polk DB351s and DB651s on order for a bit of an improvement. Maybe that will be enough.

Jimmy 2 Times

how long is that amp ground wire?

HIS4

It gets grounded right behind that panel. I didn't measure it but its probably somewhere around 18-24". That is the closest metallic surface to ground it to.