PAC OEM-VET1 + JL 250/1 + Stealthbox = low volume, whats up??
08-26-2011, 11:22 AM
#1
PAC OEM-VET1 + JL 250/1 + Stealthbox = low volume, whats up??
I installed an aftermarket amp - JL 250/1, a JL stealthbox w a 10w3v2 wired at 2 ohms, using the PAC AOEM-VET1.
12 v remote amp trigger solved:The first problem I solved was the 12v remote amp trigger. Thanks to the forum members, it is PIN #8, the dark green wire coming out of the left top most plug (black top half/grey lower half). That originally didnt work so I crimped into the same wire on the harness further up which is a much thicker gauge wire. This does the trick.
My car is a convertible, so I also grounded the amp using a bolt under the waterfall, there are two bolts under there you can use. The passenger seat bolt was just too damn big for the ring connector.
Amp volume issue:The issue I have is the output to the sub, the volume isnt loud enough. I spoke to PAC and they stated that the interface receives the full range signal from the head unit. It then is supposed to lower the signal.
My amp connections are as follows. Using the rear set of rca's from the PAC adapter:
-Plugged into rca connections (L+R) under the "Amplifier Input section"
-Input voltage switch set to Low
-Input sensitivity around 1 o clock
-Signal sensing switch set to off (using 12v switched/amp turn on)
-Crossover set to around 80 Hz
My question:
Anyone connect the rca's from the PAC to the rca connections labeled "Pre Amp Output" vs amp input section rca's??
I had same set up in a z06 w a PAC OEM-VET1, same amp, stealthbox using a 10w1, more efficient sub, and it was a helluva lot louder.
what gives????
Do I need to ditch the PAC and grab another signal from the HU?
Where should I grab a signal for the amp to use? Will the C4 plug connections off the HU provide a pre amp level signal that will be cleaner and louder??
Appreciate any input!!!
12 v remote amp trigger solved:The first problem I solved was the 12v remote amp trigger. Thanks to the forum members, it is PIN #8, the dark green wire coming out of the left top most plug (black top half/grey lower half). That originally didnt work so I crimped into the same wire on the harness further up which is a much thicker gauge wire. This does the trick.
My car is a convertible, so I also grounded the amp using a bolt under the waterfall, there are two bolts under there you can use. The passenger seat bolt was just too damn big for the ring connector.
Amp volume issue:The issue I have is the output to the sub, the volume isnt loud enough. I spoke to PAC and they stated that the interface receives the full range signal from the head unit. It then is supposed to lower the signal.
My amp connections are as follows. Using the rear set of rca's from the PAC adapter:
-Plugged into rca connections (L+R) under the "Amplifier Input section"
-Input voltage switch set to Low
-Input sensitivity around 1 o clock
-Signal sensing switch set to off (using 12v switched/amp turn on)
-Crossover set to around 80 Hz
My question:
Anyone connect the rca's from the PAC to the rca connections labeled "Pre Amp Output" vs amp input section rca's??
I had same set up in a z06 w a PAC OEM-VET1, same amp, stealthbox using a 10w1, more efficient sub, and it was a helluva lot louder.
what gives????
Do I need to ditch the PAC and grab another signal from the HU?
Where should I grab a signal for the amp to use? Will the C4 plug connections off the HU provide a pre amp level signal that will be cleaner and louder??
Appreciate any input!!!
08-26-2011, 12:39 PM
#2
Safety Car
I finished a audio install last weekend and have the same problem. The fronts are fine. The rear sub amp has low volume with the gain turned all the way up.
Last night I brought a Fluke voltmeter home from work. I measured the front Vrms output from the stock Nav HU. At high volume the max voltage was 1.5V. The rear was zero. I traced it back all the way to the HU. I am using the PAC 24 tap connector. It was still zero at the PAC 24. I removed the connector and replaced it. Now the rear is the same as the fronts. Apparently the PAC connector was not making a good connection.
The rear sub is now playing but the volume is still low at a high gain setting. I plan on installing an ARC XEQ line booster/equalizer. The input sensitivity for my amps are .3 - 3.5 Volts. Besides the equalizer should improve the overall system performance.
I know the Vrms measurement is not accurate since the amplitude is changing with the music volume level but watching it for a while is certainly an indication of the output.
2010 GS convertible, stock NAV
Last night I brought a Fluke voltmeter home from work. I measured the front Vrms output from the stock Nav HU. At high volume the max voltage was 1.5V. The rear was zero. I traced it back all the way to the HU. I am using the PAC 24 tap connector. It was still zero at the PAC 24. I removed the connector and replaced it. Now the rear is the same as the fronts. Apparently the PAC connector was not making a good connection.
The rear sub is now playing but the volume is still low at a high gain setting. I plan on installing an ARC XEQ line booster/equalizer. The input sensitivity for my amps are .3 - 3.5 Volts. Besides the equalizer should improve the overall system performance.
I know the Vrms measurement is not accurate since the amplitude is changing with the music volume level but watching it for a while is certainly an indication of the output.
2010 GS convertible, stock NAV
08-26-2011, 01:21 PM
#3
I spoke to JL Audio and they stated get a test cd 50 Hz and play that and measure the voltage out of the amp at the speaker output connections.
He stated to get the true 250 watts of my 250/1, I should be getting 22.4 volts output...
He said to play with the voltage input sensitivity **** and adjust it until I get the proper voltage.
Im about to use the harness and just splice into back of the head unit and bypass the PAC altogether to see if that makes a difference
He stated to get the true 250 watts of my 250/1, I should be getting 22.4 volts output...
He said to play with the voltage input sensitivity **** and adjust it until I get the proper voltage.
Im about to use the harness and just splice into back of the head unit and bypass the PAC altogether to see if that makes a difference
