replaced positive battery terminal in C6
03-28-2012, 12:55 AM
#21
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03-28-2012, 01:47 AM
#22
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Just a quick update. Just came out of work and the car didn't start again. I disconnected the Stinger from the terminal post (didn't touch the wires at all), put it back on immediatly and the car started.
03-28-2012, 08:30 AM
#24
Drifting
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St. Jude Donor '12
Maybe you need to clean your battery posts and then coat them in dialectric grease. There is a special brush for cleaning battery posts that I bought at a flea market for like $2.
12-11-2014, 10:15 PM
#25
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Corvette 2010 C6 positive battery terminal replacement
Problem: The GM positive battery post terminal is over-designed and does not lend itself to a very firm connection with the battery post. The stock terminal also does not lend itself to readily adding additional power leads. As a result, to power my amps, I used the remote positive power location at the fuse box, but this is fed by a six gauge wire. I did not feel comfortable running 4 gauge wire from the remove location.
Solution: Replace the stock battery post terminal with an aftermarket unit. I cut the positive wires as close to the terminal as possible and screwed both positive wires (there are two wires under the wire loom) into the 0 gauge output on a Stinger HPM battery post terminal (could not squeeze them into the 4 gauge hole). The other output on the terminal accepts the 4 gauge power wire that powers my amps. The Stinger HPM battery terminal has two outputs and they can be converted between 0 or 4 gauge. The allen screws for the wires are on the bottom of the terminal and on top of the terminal there are two allen screws to tighten the terminal to the battery post. This battery terminal has a strong grip on the battery post. Very firm connection.
The Stinger HPM terminal comes with an adapter so that it can be used on the negative battery post (positive and negative battery posts are different sizes). I am considering cutting off the negative battery post and replacing it with the Stinger unit, but there is very little slack in the negative cable and I am therefore reluctant to mess with something that seems to be working.
Before switching to the Stinger terminal, I tried a Tsunami battery terminal (2 pack that comes with positive and negative terminals). The Tsunami battery terminal is not recommended. I could not get a firm connection between the terminal and the post. The location of the allen screw on the side made it very difficult to tighten the terminal to the post. This battery terminal also chewed up the battery post when trying to get it tight on the battery post. It is also fairly clunky. It may work better in another car and with another battery. In the vette, it is too clunky for the stock battery and there is little clearance to work the allen wrench to get the terminal tight. Not recommended.
Here is a pic of my current setup with the Stinger HPM battery terminal:
Solution: Replace the stock battery post terminal with an aftermarket unit. I cut the positive wires as close to the terminal as possible and screwed both positive wires (there are two wires under the wire loom) into the 0 gauge output on a Stinger HPM battery post terminal (could not squeeze them into the 4 gauge hole). The other output on the terminal accepts the 4 gauge power wire that powers my amps. The Stinger HPM battery terminal has two outputs and they can be converted between 0 or 4 gauge. The allen screws for the wires are on the bottom of the terminal and on top of the terminal there are two allen screws to tighten the terminal to the battery post. This battery terminal has a strong grip on the battery post. Very firm connection.
The Stinger HPM terminal comes with an adapter so that it can be used on the negative battery post (positive and negative battery posts are different sizes). I am considering cutting off the negative battery post and replacing it with the Stinger unit, but there is very little slack in the negative cable and I am therefore reluctant to mess with something that seems to be working.
Before switching to the Stinger terminal, I tried a Tsunami battery terminal (2 pack that comes with positive and negative terminals). The Tsunami battery terminal is not recommended. I could not get a firm connection between the terminal and the post. The location of the allen screw on the side made it very difficult to tighten the terminal to the post. This battery terminal also chewed up the battery post when trying to get it tight on the battery post. It is also fairly clunky. It may work better in another car and with another battery. In the vette, it is too clunky for the stock battery and there is little clearance to work the allen wrench to get the terminal tight. Not recommended.
Here is a pic of my current setup with the Stinger HPM battery terminal:
after reading these threads I sawed off the end of my positive battery terminal as close to the connector as possible. Two wires enter into a solid copper connection. I was able to insert that connection into the 1/o connector on the Stinger HPM and tighten with the Allen screw. The whole operation took about 15 minutes and after tightening the two set screws for the positive battery terminal I have an excellent secure connection.
I was surprised to find two wires entering into a solid copper connector.the dealer wanted to replace the bad positive connection with a whole new cable with the cost of approximately $400. If everything continues to work well I have saved approximately $375.
09-23-2015, 11:55 PM
#26
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After having problems with a loose positive terminal on my 2006 causing intermittent starts, I too decided to change to the the Stinger HPM terminal for use on a yellow top Optima battery. I disconnected and pulled the battery, used large wire cutters to cut the positive terminal as possible to the crimp, stripped back the insulation on both the positive wires, inserted both into a single connection hole on the Stinger HPM with the 4 gauge adapter removed, and screwed them down. I replaced the battery and even with the cut and strip, there was sufficient slack in the cable.
Like dcjerome said, this was a quick job, about 30 minutes. Hardest part was getting the terminal cut off and stripping away the insulation. The HPM provides a more secure connection and I am pleased with the change.
Like dcjerome said, this was a quick job, about 30 minutes. Hardest part was getting the terminal cut off and stripping away the insulation. The HPM provides a more secure connection and I am pleased with the change.
11-01-2016, 09:52 PM
#27
Sorry for the grave dig here, but I wanted to know if this stinger terminal would work ?
https://amzn.com/B008Q2YB4U
It seems to me that there are two positive cables that need to be put into the terminal and they can both fit together in the 1/0 hole on that terminal i linked?
https://amzn.com/B008Q2YB4U
It seems to me that there are two positive cables that need to be put into the terminal and they can both fit together in the 1/0 hole on that terminal i linked?
11-03-2016, 09:04 PM
#28
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Positive battery cable connectors
Sorry for the grave dig here, but I wanted to know if this stinger terminal would work ?
https://amzn.com/B008Q2YB4U
It seems to me that there are two positive cables that need to be put into the terminal and they can both fit together in the 1/0 hole on that terminal i linked?
https://amzn.com/B008Q2YB4U
It seems to me that there are two positive cables that need to be put into the terminal and they can both fit together in the 1/0 hole on that terminal i linked?
11-10-2016, 01:16 AM
#29
Tech Contributor
If you have a soldering iron it would help if you tin the tips of the wires that you double up or install in a slot designed for a larger wire 
05-04-2017, 11:42 AM
#30
Marine terminal worked great
Bought Autozone epoxy coated marine terminals. Cut OEM terminal off the "copper" strap as close to it as possible with tin snips (old school heavy duty straight snips with about 18" handles) and straightened the strap. Drilled 3/8" hole in strap. Attached to new Red marine terminal with SS lock washer and nut instead of supplied wing nut. OEM red rubber cover still in place. Less than 1 hour job, no worries about cable length, no electrical issues, no heat detected on connections after multiple start/stops.
