I have an 06 coupe without bose and no xm. My passenger side sub started making some awful racket, then it was fine, then it stopped making sound completely, now its back to making the same noise again. I figure its one of 3 things: bad wire connection, blown sub, or it has rattled itself loose and is freely movable in the door.

The questions I have are:
1. What sub is in my door if I don't have the bose package?
2. Can I put subs in my doors if I end up having to replace it without them eventually rattling the door apart/loose?
3. Is this the right interface for replacing my stock HU? (pics below)
4. Has anyone ever powder coated an amp and if so how did it turn out?
I'm trying to get out pretty cheap because I'm saving for a new motorcycle and don't wanna get out of pocket too much.

I have this amp (in the pic below) it is a JL A2150 2ohms: 75 watts x 2 channels. I was thinking if this amp ends up usable for this project instead of hiding it, getting it powder coated to match my car and leaving it visible. I have class with a guy who's dad owns a powder coating shop so I could get it done for next to nothing. I also have a roll of dynamat and a roll of dynapad. So while I have the panels off might as well go ahead and line the doors with it.

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C2R-GM24 is the correct interface if you DO NOT have or do not want to keep onstar. However, you don't haver to replace the radio to fix the speaker. If you get/make this adapter (I believe Dennis at DD Mods has some) you can use oem radio to aftermarket amp. Get some inexpensive 2/3/4-way 6.5" coaxials to put in doors, make adapter plate out of $6 sheet of 1/4" MDF....

The 'sub' in a non-bose is a normal paper speaker. I forget the size, but it's nothing special. If yours poped, replace with a take-off if you can find one (possibly for free), or any standard 6.5" 4ohm speaker will work.

I wouldn't powder coat an amp. IF the electronics survive the oven, the heat dissipation would be seriously degraded. MAYBE a light coat of spray paint, but not much more.

 

I've been looking to swap out the HU for awhile, I'm AUXless, and I really would like a USB port. It doesn't have onstar I was just checking to make sure that was the interface. I actually have some 6.5" coaxes in my 96 ss camaro(blown up) that hold 75w each which would match up to the amp as long as they're 2ohm not sure I'll have to check them out. And no way would the amp survive the oven with the electronics in it I took out a couple of the allen heads and it guts pretty easy, but I didn't think about the heat. Powder coat is pretty resilient against heat so it would probably be a major insulator. I've still gotta pull the panel off. I got my tools out and got everything ready to pop it off today but the torx bit that fits the nuts was MIA had all the other ones only missing the one (murphy's law), went to wally world but they didnt have torx bits. Try'n get it done tomorrow. thank you for the help.

 

Not to hijack this thread but, do the subs in the non-Bose systems have their own amplifiers or are they powered by the head unit like the other speakers?

 

I got into the door today and I was disappointed at how shallow of a space there is for a speaker. I got a pic that shows how deep the speaker is(below). I had the window down and stuck a tape measure in the hole to the glass there cant be much more than a 1/4" gap between the window and the sub.
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well the good thing is I looked around on crutchfield and there are subs that are shallow enough as far as mount depth. Now I gotta look into clearance on the other side between the sub and the door panel. Don't want to end up with it hitting the door panel when it flexes. I could end up getting out pretty well as far as cost just the price of 2 subs and a wiring kit. If the speaker situation works out I may give in to my impulse to buy the Arc Audio mini ks125.2 I saw it mentioned in a thread while I was searching before creating this one and was immediately infatuated with it. Then i would have subs with complete stealth.

 

Even non-bose C6 have an external amp. Door subs are powered by that amp, not the HU.

A 'real' sub in the door won't sound very good if all you do is replace the oem speaker. It would need a rigid enclosure and lots more power to do well.