C6 JL Stealth subs lacking bass, need help
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
C6 JL Stealth subs lacking bass, need help
Just finished installing new system with the following:
Factory NAV head unit with PAC ADD-GM24 Harness for pre-outs
JL Stealth subs
JL C2-650 Component speakers
JL 500/1D amp for subs
JL 360/2 amp for component speakers
JL RBC-1 Bass control
Let me start off by saying that my expectations of bass output for these subs is realistic. I have a dodge Ram with a JL Stealth sub with the same amp and I'm very pleased with the amount of bass it produces.
So far with minimal tweaking the component speakers sound really good, the subs however are really lacking.
I've tried multiple settings on the amp (Filter Freq, Input Sensitivity etc.), swapping pre-outs - front channel instead of rear, swapping speaker polarity. Turning the Bass control **** to it's max offers only a slight increase in bass output.
Any suggestions what to check next?
Factory NAV head unit with PAC ADD-GM24 Harness for pre-outs
JL Stealth subs
JL C2-650 Component speakers
JL 500/1D amp for subs
JL 360/2 amp for component speakers
JL RBC-1 Bass control
Let me start off by saying that my expectations of bass output for these subs is realistic. I have a dodge Ram with a JL Stealth sub with the same amp and I'm very pleased with the amount of bass it produces.
So far with minimal tweaking the component speakers sound really good, the subs however are really lacking.
I've tried multiple settings on the amp (Filter Freq, Input Sensitivity etc.), swapping pre-outs - front channel instead of rear, swapping speaker polarity. Turning the Bass control **** to it's max offers only a slight increase in bass output.
Any suggestions what to check next?
#3
Safety Car
When you switched the polarity on the subs, did you do both at the same time?
One very, very common problem is getting the polarity on one of the speakers reversed, effectively cancelling out the bass response.
if you're seeing the subs move, but little or no bass, that is likely the issue. if you're not seeing any movement from the subs, there's something else wrong.
One very, very common problem is getting the polarity on one of the speakers reversed, effectively cancelling out the bass response.
if you're seeing the subs move, but little or no bass, that is likely the issue. if you're not seeing any movement from the subs, there's something else wrong.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
SB-GM-C6CONV/8W3v3
"Contains two 8W3v3-4 drivers in sealed enclosures. 500 watt power handling. Wired for 2 ohm mono."
Speaker wire from each sub connected to a +/- terminal on amp.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
When you switched the polarity on the subs, did you do both at the same time?
One very, very common problem is getting the polarity on one of the speakers reversed, effectively cancelling out the bass response.
if you're seeing the subs move, but little or no bass, that is likely the issue. if you're not seeing any movement from the subs, there's something else wrong.
One very, very common problem is getting the polarity on one of the speakers reversed, effectively cancelling out the bass response.
if you're seeing the subs move, but little or no bass, that is likely the issue. if you're not seeing any movement from the subs, there's something else wrong.
#6
Tech Contributor
Try this. AT THE AMP, disconnect sub1 (-) wire and sub2 (+) wire, then twist them together. That should have a serial connection of amp(+) to sub1 (+), then sub1 (-) to sub2 (+), and sub2(-) to amp (-). The result is a 4ohm load on amp.
Also...
Are you using the RCA inputs on the amp?
If installed, unplug the remote bass control ****.
Is LP freq set at 100hz or higher?
Is gain **** all the way up?
Make sure bass & EQ settings on stock radio aren't somehow eliminating the low frequencies.
Once you get good bass you can tweak it to blend better
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
If each sub box is wired internally for a 2ohm load, the way you have them connected to the amp is in 'parallel', which means the amp is seeing a total load of 1ohm. That amp isn't rated for a 1ohm load, so it may be going into a protection mode.
Try this. AT THE AMP, disconnect sub1 (-) wire and sub2 (+) wire, then twist them together. That should have a serial connection of amp(+) to sub1 (+), then sub1 (-) to sub2 (+), and sub2(-) to amp (-). The result is a 4ohm load on amp.
Also...
Are you using the RCA inputs on the amp?
If installed, unplug the remote bass control ****.
Is LP freq set at 100hz or higher?
Is gain **** all the way up?
Make sure bass & EQ settings on stock radio aren't somehow eliminating the low frequencies.
Once you get good bass you can tweak it to blend better
Try this. AT THE AMP, disconnect sub1 (-) wire and sub2 (+) wire, then twist them together. That should have a serial connection of amp(+) to sub1 (+), then sub1 (-) to sub2 (+), and sub2(-) to amp (-). The result is a 4ohm load on amp.
Also...
Are you using the RCA inputs on the amp?
If installed, unplug the remote bass control ****.
Is LP freq set at 100hz or higher?
Is gain **** all the way up?
Make sure bass & EQ settings on stock radio aren't somehow eliminating the low frequencies.
Once you get good bass you can tweak it to blend better
I will try this and report back.
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Figured out the problem. First let me say thanks for the suggestions I received.
Tried all the suggestions to no avail so called JL tech support. One of the tests they had me do was checking the voltage at the amp speaker terminal with a LF test signal, ideally should be at 31.6 volts but I was only able to achieve 22 volts with the input sensitivity turned all the way up. They then suggested running a ground direct to the battery and retest, wouldn't you know I could then get up to 40 volts!
So in short I have a bad ground. I grounded to a bolt behind the passenger seat on a large rail running the width of the car, even scraped the paint away. Apparently this is not a good spot. I'm so bummed I have to pull the subs and carpet to find a better spot.
Tried all the suggestions to no avail so called JL tech support. One of the tests they had me do was checking the voltage at the amp speaker terminal with a LF test signal, ideally should be at 31.6 volts but I was only able to achieve 22 volts with the input sensitivity turned all the way up. They then suggested running a ground direct to the battery and retest, wouldn't you know I could then get up to 40 volts!
So in short I have a bad ground. I grounded to a bolt behind the passenger seat on a large rail running the width of the car, even scraped the paint away. Apparently this is not a good spot. I'm so bummed I have to pull the subs and carpet to find a better spot.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Here's a few pics of the finished product. No where near as clean of an install as some members have posted, but it was the best I could do.
Ended up going thru the trunk bin to ground to the frame under neath the car. Was actually quite easy.
As for these JL Stealthboxes, my impression so far is just eh. I went with these because I'm so pleased with the JL Stealthbox in my Ram truck (single 10").
I'm beginning to question my choice and whether I should have gone with dual 10's in the corner trunk bins.
Ended up going thru the trunk bin to ground to the frame under neath the car. Was actually quite easy.
As for these JL Stealthboxes, my impression so far is just eh. I went with these because I'm so pleased with the JL Stealthbox in my Ram truck (single 10").
I'm beginning to question my choice and whether I should have gone with dual 10's in the corner trunk bins.