Terrible Sound Kenwood DDX374BT DD Mods
#1
Terrible Sound Kenwood DDX374BT DD Mods
So, I received my package from Double D mods and excitedly started my install. I soldered and heatshrinked every connection so I would never have any issues. Double checked my wiring and installed the unit. I was extremely disappointed with the sound. I spoke to Dennis and he ran through the wiring with me and all is correct. He asked if my battery was low and I told him I was actually running on a jump box because my battery was shot and he figured this was why. Purchased a new AGM Platinum Battery. Started car and the sound was a little better but not significant. Spoke to Dennis again who assured me it should not sound like that. He said he has never installed an aftermarket radio that didn't sound better than the factory no matter the brand. He tried helping me but he is 1000 miles away and its not like he can run over and look at it. I am by no means an audiophile. I thought the stock Bose was decent. This is pretty bad, highs are ear piercing instead of crisp and the base is muddy with no punch. I ran out last night and purchased a set of Infinity 3 1/2 speakers for the doors and installed them and feel like it made no difference. I have triple checked my wiring and messed with every setting in the radio. I am about ready to rip all the factory stuff out and replace it while adding a subwoofer even though it was never in my mind to do this at the beginning. What am I missing?
#2
Melting Slicks
I have replaced the stock units in every corvette I have owned with the last 3 being 03 Z06, 09 Z06, 06 Base and all 3 sounded amazing compared to the bose.
A few things I learned
1. Replace ALL speakers with decent (no need to spend crazy money) speakers.
2. Put at least a 10" sub woofer in the car. They do sell special boxes that go in the back of the car but they are pricey.
3. Spend time going through all the settings on the new head unit. The more I played with them the better they sound.
I just finished putting a new system in the 2006 last weekend and all in I was around $650 and it sounds amazing. If you were close I would help you out.
A few things I learned
1. Replace ALL speakers with decent (no need to spend crazy money) speakers.
2. Put at least a 10" sub woofer in the car. They do sell special boxes that go in the back of the car but they are pricey.
3. Spend time going through all the settings on the new head unit. The more I played with them the better they sound.
I just finished putting a new system in the 2006 last weekend and all in I was around $650 and it sounds amazing. If you were close I would help you out.
#3
To get improved sound, you will need more than a new source unit.
It is like getting a new dress shirt, but wearing an old ragged suit.
Sound quality is proportional to the weakest link of the system.
A proper sound system would include:
1. Head Unit - most people call it a stereo - stereo is a type of sound like mono.
2. RCA cables - notice I did not say speaker level outputs.
3. Amplifier - 4 to 6 channels would be preferable.
4. Ground and power wire - 4 or 0 gauge.
5. Speaker wire - 12 or 14 gauge.
6. Component set - 6.5" and a tweeter with crossover.
7. Subwoofer - 10" with 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coil / coils.
8. Subwoofer enclosure - optimized for the subwoofer.
I think you only completed step 1, you have 7 or more to go.
Other things to consider:
9. Sound dampening
10. Time alignment
11. Extra Battery
12. Capacitor
13. Active crossover
14. Reference soundtracks.
It is like getting a new dress shirt, but wearing an old ragged suit.
Sound quality is proportional to the weakest link of the system.
A proper sound system would include:
1. Head Unit - most people call it a stereo - stereo is a type of sound like mono.
2. RCA cables - notice I did not say speaker level outputs.
3. Amplifier - 4 to 6 channels would be preferable.
4. Ground and power wire - 4 or 0 gauge.
5. Speaker wire - 12 or 14 gauge.
6. Component set - 6.5" and a tweeter with crossover.
7. Subwoofer - 10" with 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coil / coils.
8. Subwoofer enclosure - optimized for the subwoofer.
I think you only completed step 1, you have 7 or more to go.
Other things to consider:
9. Sound dampening
10. Time alignment
11. Extra Battery
12. Capacitor
13. Active crossover
14. Reference soundtracks.
#4
Drifting
To get improved sound, you will need more than a new source unit.
It is like getting a new dress shirt, but wearing an old ragged suit.
Sound quality is proportional to the weakest link of the system.
A proper sound system would include:
1. Head Unit - most people call it a stereo - stereo is a type of sound like mono.
2. RCA cables - notice I did not say speaker level outputs.
3. Amplifier - 4 to 6 channels would be preferable.
4. Ground and power wire - 4 or 0 gauge.
5. Speaker wire - 12 or 14 gauge.
6. Component set - 6.5" and a tweeter with crossover.
7. Subwoofer - 10" with 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coil / coils.
8. Subwoofer enclosure - optimized for the subwoofer.
I think you only completed step 1, you have 7 or more to go.
Other things to consider:
9. Sound dampening
10. Time alignment
11. Extra Battery
12. Capacitor
13. Active crossover
14. Reference soundtracks.
It is like getting a new dress shirt, but wearing an old ragged suit.
Sound quality is proportional to the weakest link of the system.
A proper sound system would include:
1. Head Unit - most people call it a stereo - stereo is a type of sound like mono.
2. RCA cables - notice I did not say speaker level outputs.
3. Amplifier - 4 to 6 channels would be preferable.
4. Ground and power wire - 4 or 0 gauge.
5. Speaker wire - 12 or 14 gauge.
6. Component set - 6.5" and a tweeter with crossover.
7. Subwoofer - 10" with 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coil / coils.
8. Subwoofer enclosure - optimized for the subwoofer.
I think you only completed step 1, you have 7 or more to go.
Other things to consider:
9. Sound dampening
10. Time alignment
11. Extra Battery
12. Capacitor
13. Active crossover
14. Reference soundtracks.
The following users liked this post:
ApexerER (04-06-2017)
#5
I run a Kenwood deck with an amplifier, with an RTA, I tuned the tweeters -6db from 4khz to 20khz.
#6
Burning Brakes
I just completed a similar in installation on my C5.
Did you install an after market amp? If not, did you buy a Bose module to make the head unit work with the Bose head factory amp? The modules have gain controls that must be turned all the way to the right. If you do not turn the gains up, the sound from the head unit will be extremely poor.
Did you install an after market amp? If not, did you buy a Bose module to make the head unit work with the Bose head factory amp? The modules have gain controls that must be turned all the way to the right. If you do not turn the gains up, the sound from the head unit will be extremely poor.
#7
I just completed a similar in installation on my C5.
Did you install an after market amp? If not, did you buy a Bose module to make the head unit work with the Bose head factory amp? The modules have gain controls that must be turned all the way to the right. If you do not turn the gains up, the sound from the head unit will be extremely poor.
Did you install an after market amp? If not, did you buy a Bose module to make the head unit work with the Bose head factory amp? The modules have gain controls that must be turned all the way to the right. If you do not turn the gains up, the sound from the head unit will be extremely poor.
What I'm looking for now is a way to use the steering wheel control capability of the head unit to run a small box or panel of controls like volume & tuning, if nothing else. Phone buttons would be nice, too. The buttons of the radio/Nav are just too tiny to get at safely while driving. We'll see what I come up with. Crutchfield sells a rig with just buttons that straps to a steering wheel, but I'd also like to have ***** for volume & tuning, in addition to those buttons. Might be a way to add that to their unit or in a different location. There's plenty of room on the console with nothing underneath to interfere with wires. If anyone knows of a mfr that already does this entire adaptation for adding buttons & ***** to a digital head unit without using actual steering wheel controls, I'd appreciate the tip, as well. Good luck, OP...
Later same day update; I found a device on eBay that uses the infrared remote pickup to send the steering wheel button commands to the head unit. Uses a replaceable battery and can either be mounted on the wheel with an included strap mechanism, or looks like you could stick somewhere else. It's only $10.49 shipped w/1 yr warranty via eBay, so I ordered one. If nothing else, if I don't like it as is, I can gut it & put the parts in a small box or mount them in the console top. The buttons are way larger than what's on the Kenwood & makes muting, vol up/down & phone answer/hangup obvious.
Best regards,
...z
Last edited by ZeekDuff; 04-08-2017 at 02:18 PM. Reason: additional info
#8
Melting Slicks
...I found a device on eBay that uses the infrared remote pickup to send the steering wheel button commands to the head unit. Uses a replaceable battery and can either be mounted on the wheel with an included step mechanism, or looks like you could stick somewhere else. It's only $10.49 shipped w/1 yr warranty via eBay, so I ordered one. If nothing else, if I don't like it as is, I can gut it & put the parts in a small box or mount them in the console top. The buttons are way larger than what's on the Kenwood & makes muting, vol up/down & phone answer/hangup obvious.
Best regards,
...z
Best regards,
...z
Thanks!
#9
Here y'go... http://www.ebay.com/itm/282247105401
Ugly little piece of tripe, huh? That pink plastic will get painted if I leave it in it's original case.
There are others that need to be connected to the head unit's steering wheel harness to "read" the commands (you connect a receiver to the harness that picks up FM from the wireless controller), they're about $35, but I really don't want to pull the unit to get at the harness connection in the back. The guy I had do the work left it off, because he didn't think I needed it. BS, I also gave him AV wires to connect & USB, he left it all off, so someday, I might need to pull it down anyway. I had plans to put access to all that in the console in back of the shifter. If you take that cover off, you can see plenty of room underneath to install connectors, run wires, etc.
PS: there are also others that look like the one I got, but be careful, this one "looks" the same with no color BS, BUT it doesn't appear to have phone buttons.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-St...3D282247105401
Best regards,
...z
Ugly little piece of tripe, huh? That pink plastic will get painted if I leave it in it's original case.
There are others that need to be connected to the head unit's steering wheel harness to "read" the commands (you connect a receiver to the harness that picks up FM from the wireless controller), they're about $35, but I really don't want to pull the unit to get at the harness connection in the back. The guy I had do the work left it off, because he didn't think I needed it. BS, I also gave him AV wires to connect & USB, he left it all off, so someday, I might need to pull it down anyway. I had plans to put access to all that in the console in back of the shifter. If you take that cover off, you can see plenty of room underneath to install connectors, run wires, etc.
PS: there are also others that look like the one I got, but be careful, this one "looks" the same with no color BS, BUT it doesn't appear to have phone buttons.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-St...3D282247105401
Best regards,
...z
Last edited by ZeekDuff; 04-08-2017 at 02:16 PM. Reason: additional info
#10
Melting Slicks
Here y'go...
Universal-Steering-Wheel-IR-Remote-Control-Pink-Bottom
Ugly little piece of tripe, huh? That pink plastic will get painted if I leave it in it's original case. ...
... PS: there are also others that look like the one I got, but be careful, this one "looks" the same with no color BS, BUT it doesn't appear to have phone buttons.
Universal-Steering-Wheel-IR-Remote-Control-Pink-Behind
Best regards,
...z
Universal-Steering-Wheel-IR-Remote-Control-Pink-Bottom
Ugly little piece of tripe, huh? That pink plastic will get painted if I leave it in it's original case. ...
... PS: there are also others that look like the one I got, but be careful, this one "looks" the same with no color BS, BUT it doesn't appear to have phone buttons.
Universal-Steering-Wheel-IR-Remote-Control-Pink-Behind
Best regards,
...z
Just something I noticed. Both have pink translucent portions in their cases to allow the infrared to pass through. If you paint it, you should only do the front part, like the second device you linked
#11
Best regards,
...z
#12
Ok...so my radio is now working and sounding like it should. I have spoken to Dennis probably a dozen times (That guy has patience). So today while talking to him I ask if I can send him pics of my wiring etc so we can hopefully figure this out and he gives me his PERSONAL cell number so I can text him pics. ( idk anyone that would give their personal number out like that) I rip the radio out and take pics of the harness so I can send them to Dennis. I hook the radio back up and it sounds great. I didn't change anything! I have had this radio out at least 15 times. Called Dennis and told him...i am very happy it is working but still wonder what the heck. Thumbs up for Dennis and DD mods. Dennis assured me if I have any more issues he will help me out...Thanks for all the replies
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: Morris County New Jersey
Posts: 5,372
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Sounds like there is a short somewhere. Possibly a bad harness or bad wiring connection. Hopefully the problem doesn't reappear down the road. When I was doing my install on my C6, I connected the harness and put the head unit on and it sounded ok, not great. As I was tucking all the wires in to actually install the head unit, all of a sudden everything kicked in and sounded much better. Pulled everything out and the sound went bad again. I discovered I had a bad wiring harness that only worked correctly when I applied pressure to the plug. Luckily I discovered all this before finishing my install. I replaced the wiring harness with another new one and everything worked great with no more problems. Good luck.
#14
Melting Slicks
Ok...so my radio is now working and sounding like it should... ...I rip the radio out and take pics of the harness... ...I hook the radio back up and it sounds great. I didn't change anything! I have had this radio out at least 15 times.... ...i am very happy it is working but still wonder what the heck...
...Possibly a bad harness or bad wiring connection. Hopefully the problem doesn't reappear down the road. When I was doing my install on my C6, I connected the harness and put the head unit on and it sounded ok, not great. As I was tucking all the wires in to actually install the head unit, all of a sudden everything kicked in and sounded much better. Pulled everything out and the sound went bad again. I discovered I had a bad wiring harness that only worked correctly when I applied pressure to the plug. Luckily I discovered all this before finishing my install. I replaced the wiring harness with another new one and everything worked great with no more problems. Good luck.
If problem reappears, you now have a better idea of where to look to fix it
Last edited by GCG; 04-14-2017 at 02:57 PM.
#15
Steering Wheel Wireless Remote
Okay, the remote came & there are no instructions, so I'm left to wonder until I get a chance to go mess with it. I'm finishing up taxes, so I don't want to get distracted until I'm done, maybe another day to check it all over, thinking I'll finish up in an hour or so more. I should start a new thread on this piece, anyway. I'll do that once I know if it works or not & how well if it does. It's not as ugly in person, that translucent part is a lot darker than it appears in the pix. It's possible to just go with it as intended without mods. We'll see & I'll let the forum know, give a me a couple of days at least. I'll try to get a decent pict of it, too. Thanks!
Best regards,
...z
Best regards,
...z
#17
Burning Brakes
I installed a Kenwood DNX-9990 head unit with Dennis' bezel using stock Bose speakers, just needed some bottom boost, so I temporarily put in an eight inch Bazooka powered sub in the center tub of the trunk, put the lid back on & latched it. It sounds great, could use a little more ultra-high end, but in my ragtop, I don't really miss it until sitting still with the engine off. Hardly worth the bother. I'm an old professional musician, so I know what it should sound like, and it's just fine, thank you. It does have a wired remote for the sub, but leaving it wide open is doing the trick. The whole package was definitely worth it. I'll finish up by making a plate to bolt to the stock CD changer's old mounting bolts to strap the sub in permanently. Try adding a powered sub-woofer before you start swapping speakers, you'll need one regardless of any other full-range range speaker, 'cause they're just gonna be too small to deliver good bass. Edit: The 10" Bazooka won't fit with the tub lid on, I tried it first.
What I'm looking for now is a way to use the steering wheel control capability of the head unit to run a small box or panel of controls like volume & tuning, if nothing else. Phone buttons would be nice, too. The buttons of the radio/Nav are just too tiny to get at safely while driving. We'll see what I come up with. Crutchfield sells a rig with just buttons that straps to a steering wheel, but I'd also like to have ***** for volume & tuning, in addition to those buttons. Might be a way to add that to their unit or in a different location. There's plenty of room on the console with nothing underneath to interfere with wires. If anyone knows of a mfr that already does this entire adaptation for adding buttons & ***** to a digital head unit without using actual steering wheel controls, I'd appreciate the tip, as well. Good luck, OP...
Later same day update; I found a device on eBay that uses the infrared remote pickup to send the steering wheel button commands to the head unit. Uses a replaceable battery and can either be mounted on the wheel with an included strap mechanism, or looks like you could stick somewhere else. It's only $10.49 shipped w/1 yr warranty via eBay, so I ordered one. If nothing else, if I don't like it as is, I can gut it & put the parts in a small box or mount them in the console top. The buttons are way larger than what's on the Kenwood & makes muting, vol up/down & phone answer/hangup obvious.
Best regards,
...z
What I'm looking for now is a way to use the steering wheel control capability of the head unit to run a small box or panel of controls like volume & tuning, if nothing else. Phone buttons would be nice, too. The buttons of the radio/Nav are just too tiny to get at safely while driving. We'll see what I come up with. Crutchfield sells a rig with just buttons that straps to a steering wheel, but I'd also like to have ***** for volume & tuning, in addition to those buttons. Might be a way to add that to their unit or in a different location. There's plenty of room on the console with nothing underneath to interfere with wires. If anyone knows of a mfr that already does this entire adaptation for adding buttons & ***** to a digital head unit without using actual steering wheel controls, I'd appreciate the tip, as well. Good luck, OP...
Later same day update; I found a device on eBay that uses the infrared remote pickup to send the steering wheel button commands to the head unit. Uses a replaceable battery and can either be mounted on the wheel with an included strap mechanism, or looks like you could stick somewhere else. It's only $10.49 shipped w/1 yr warranty via eBay, so I ordered one. If nothing else, if I don't like it as is, I can gut it & put the parts in a small box or mount them in the console top. The buttons are way larger than what's on the Kenwood & makes muting, vol up/down & phone answer/hangup obvious.
Best regards,
...z