joezr2

2001 Coupe
DD Mods package:
Kenwood DMX7704s
Kenwood XR900/5 amp
JL components front doors
JL coax rear
10" sub in stealthbox


Here's the question I have on wiring the head unit-
I received a standard GM wiring harness with the package but I don't know what the point of this is. All of the wiring instructions I can find online are showing a ROEMvette unit which I do not need.

The wires needed according to the Kenwood manual are:

Red- ignition wire from passenger footwell
Yellow- 12V constant from passenger footwell
Black- ground from passenger footwell
Purple/white- reverse sensor from back of car
Light green- parking sensor wire from parking brake
Orange/White- dimmer wire from cream colored wire on HVAC control

Everything else goes TO somewhere else (i.e. remote turn on for amp, USBs, RCAs for cameras, antenna adaptor, etc.)

Not one of those required wires above comes from the factory harness, right? They come from that little bunch of wires in the passenger footwell (orange/yellow/black) by the BCM since the stock wiring won't feed 12 power through the wiring harness with the stock components removed.

So am I missing something here or is there no part for the "GM adapter" to play in this at all? I suppose I could wire the black wire for the ground to it??





Aside form the question above- I've been surprised so far how easy the C5 is to work on. I had the entire interior out of this car (by myself including a couple beers) in about 4 hours. Running wires has been a breeze so far!

Rob 02

I'm using the ROEM VET1 and when looking at the pin out of the OEM wiring, the interface doesn't do a whole lot but provide a signal to the stock woofers. I think you should be able to pull power from the harness.

There is no provision for maintaining the RAP feature or accessory power directly from the wiring harness. I used a GMRAP module that I got off eBay to provide accessory power maintaining the rap feature. The stereo stays on until you open the door. I connected the GMRAP to the orange serial data wire.

joezr2

Thanks Rob! So the factory harness will provide power (constant 12V) and ground but the ignition (ignition on 12V) has to come from the passenger floor wire by the BCM?
I ask because this shows pulling all 3 from the footwell: http://nebula.wsimg.com/54b47da4d69e...&alloworigin=1

EDIT: page 27 of 34 in the above link. (it would be rather rude to make someone look through all of that to see WTH I was talking about..)


All of this assumes no RAP retention for now. Maybe I'll tackle this later.


And the comment above came back to bite me..... Running a 4GA wire, two 16 GA wires for power/ground and the RCA for the front camera through that rubber grommet behind the battery wasn't quite so easy. I used a straightened metal hanger, electrical tape and some white lithium grease to pull it through. And yes, Dennis's instructions above are correct- cut off the RCA plug and resolder it once it's through and inside the car. That plug would never have made it through there with everything else...

Rob 02

There are two orange wires in the factory harness. One is battery + fused and is located at the edge of the harness. The other orange wire near the middle of the harness is for serial data (this is the one you would use with the GMRAP unit).

My schematic from the 2002 factory service manual shows that the orange wire (bat+) to the head unit harness goes directly to fuse 5 (15A) and is hot at all times. The orange wire in the passenger foot well is the only wire tapped off of it and they are the same electrically.

There is no "key on" accessory power in the harness because the factory head unit powers on an off via data from the other orange and pink wires. To get accessory power you can use the yellow wire on the passenger foot well.
Instead you could use the GMRAP module (I got mine for $25 on eBay) and connect the purple wire to the orange in the middle of the harness (data wire).

I am not finding any dimmable back-lighting power in the factory harness which I thought was odd. Dennis recommends getting dimmable back-lighting by tapping a wire from the climate control unit if you need it.

As far as running an amp power cable; I just drilled a hole next to where the big PCM grommet and used a smaller rubber grommet, supplied with my amp kit, to protect the wires.

I tried to post schematics and diagrams by scanning my FSM yesterday but that was a fail. There was an issue with the file format.

unlvrebel

You should be able to get additional wires through the stock grommet once your power wire is through. I used some Romex taped to the 4 guage. Came right through. From there I taped each wire I wanted to pull to the 4 guage. Even the RCA jack. No problem. For the RCA I did use some additional tape to taper the RCA to the 4 gauge... Always pull from the inside out. You'll need to feed the 4 gauge in, tape from the inside and pull to the engine compartment. That way the grommet on the firewall is in the correct position.

joezr2

Thanks for the replies guys. Hopefully I don't need to pull any more wires through there but I'll try the inside-out method next time.

"the orange wire (bat+) to the head unit harness goes directly to fuse 5 (15A) and is hot at all times. The orange wire in the passenger foot well is the only wire tapped off of it and they are the same electrically."

Thank you for that. I'll wire the orange constant-on 12V wire and the black ground to the factory harness adapter and just run the ACC wire to the yellow wire in the footwell.

I'll also tie in the tiny power wire for the front camera to this also. I guess that camera just gets switched on with the ACC while the rear camera gets power only when the car is shifted into reverse since it's power wire comes from the reverse light.

I still have to cut that top bracket out of the dash too. I've been dreading that. I'm going to start with a dremel first. The thought of poking a sawzall in there just doesn't sound appealing....

unlvrebel

Sorry, but that was funny. I tried a swazall, an oscillating tool with blade and a drill, specifically a right angle drill. Some have opted for a right angle attachment. The right angle drill with a several SHARP bits was the best answer. Maybe a higher quality oscillating tool would have worked as well...

At the end of the process I did need to persuade the rivet with a 3 pound sledge and a chisel.

joezr2

hmmm.... I do have a pretty good (i.e. non-Harbor Freight) one of those oscillating saws with a bunch of different blades.. Maybe I'll try that first.

I do have chisels and a BFH if I need it

joezr2

Sawzall did the trick. Tip- use a good blade!

Amp isn't mounted yet and I have no bezel (should be arriving at DD mods today via UPS) but I hooked it all up and it worked! Backup camera comes on automagically when shifted into reverse, front camera, carplay, microphone, etc.

I just need to make a donut of some sort for the driver's rear speaker since the JL 6 3/4 hits the fuel filler neck. After that, the vettenuts insulation kit goes in, mass-loaded vinyl goes on top in the cargo area, reinstall carpet, screw the amp to the wood mounted to the back wall under the carpet...... wow... this still seems like a lot.....

Rob 02

I still have most of my interior out and I know what your saying. Lots of steps in the process for someone who doesn't have a shop that does stereo installs every day. When it is your personal car there is a tenancy to want to be more ****.

I am a little hesitant about cutting the wire to my reverse cam to route it.

pentavolvo

For what you doing I wouldn't use harness and just grab in the passenger footwell

Sawzall and long blade always worked wel for me

Rob 02

I am doing the reverse cam thing too in my restoration project.

I was thinking about drilling a hole in the back tub. I like to do everything as good or better than the factory did it.

Any suggestions.






I am going with a stealth box and JL audio woofer.

Rob 02

I would hate to punch a hole in the back tub just for a reverse cam. But maybe I will have to.

joezr2

Rob,
I drilled a hole in the rear tub just above that little "shelf" above the center well. When you take the rear plate and mount off the back you can see right where it will pop through. I used the passenger side backup light for power/ground so I drilled on that side. After the reverse sensor wire and RCA cable went through I sealed it up with plumber's putty.

In my research I did find someone who didn't drill- they used that vent in the driver-rear side of the trunk and fished it out through that and around the back. That's one way to avoid drilling but the hole is small, completely concealed, and well sealed so I didn't have a problem drilling.

You are right- nothing about this install was rocket surgery but there are a LOT of little steps to perform!

Also as a tip for anyone installing any mass-loaded vinyl: I used the pre-cut foam kit from vettenuts which went in about as easy as I could have hoped for. It is also very useful to use those pre-cut pieces as a template to cut any mass loaded vinyl pieces. I only did the trunk and wheel wells with the MLV. I ordered WAY too much but when it arrived there was no way I was putting THAT much weight in the car. That roll must have weighed at least 80-90 lbs....


I'm down to tapping power for the Corbeau Seat heaters from the fuse block, Grounding to the stud in the passenger side wall (also where I grouned the amp,) heaters in the seats, installing the carpet in the front and I'm done for now.

It'll be a couple weeks before I get the bezel back from Dennis but I can drive the car without it.... and the first autocross is this Sunday

Hopefully I get the bezel back before the 24th. We're going to the NCM on the 26th!

joezr2

One more thing that may help someone in the future: I purchased one of these 3D printed ash tray replacement inserts to put my my seat heater switches and AUX port in: https://www.shapeways.com/product/8F...&utm_content=2

The design is from a forum member. It just shipped so I should have that in a few days.


Also- Dennis hooked me up with a dual USB plug that will be located in the old power outlet hole.

Rob 02

Thanks, That kind of confirmed my suspicion. I found a rubber grommet kit at Harbor Freight for cheep. I decided not to go through the vent.