redbird555

So I've always heard good things about this JL 13tw5v2 and so I finally decided to try one. First off before I get into building everything I must say this sub does sound awesome. Given it's shallow mount you expect to lose certain characteristics but this thing does an awesome job. It's by far the best soundin woofer I've heard short of going to a very high end piece. Powering it is a ks300.2 amp from arc audio. Dennis at DD hooked me up with everything as he happened to have 1 of these subs laying around on the shelf and I must say he gave me a screaming deal. I ordered everything back in May but just got around to finishing up the install so I'm not sure if he'll remember me or not lol

Anyway when I did this I knew I wanted a stealth install. I really don't care for the bulky amp racks and sub boxes that take up a lot of the truck and go right behind the rear seat so I figured I'd have to make my own to fit this sub.

Pics are all below but basically I lined the trunk with plastic shrink wrap then ran to lowes and bought a couple cans of great stuff spray foam and made a positive mold plug of the car's trunk.

After this was done I simply glassed the outside of the foam then cut and trim to fit the general shape I wanted in the car. I did buy a prefabbed speaker ring off eBay so I wouldn't have to mess with a router too much and I set that in the housing below using just some dowels and screws.

To make the sides of the box complete I just stretched some old freeze over the box and secured it with staples and contact cement then closed the whole thing with resin and 2 layers of glass to firm it up.

Finished product is at the bottom. Overall real happy with how it came out and how it sounds

TurboLX

Very well done. I'm considering upgrading from my existing 10w6v2 to a single Dayton 15" HO in a similar arrangement. It looks like your design had all kinds of depth to spare for almost any driver choice. Scaling it up to a 15" shouldn't be much crazier since the Dayton driver doesn't really need a ton of air space (relatively speaking).

How much RMS power are you running? Arc shows 700WRMS into 4 ohms, but doesn't recommend bridging into 2 ohms like your sub.

Is that driver capable of pressure loading the car? (You feel it solidly on your chest and your pantlegs move at full output.) 500WRMS on the sealed 10w6v2 doesn't quite get there in this car like it did in others, so I'm thinking more cone area like you did would help. Also, the Dayton 15" is 10dB more efficient on paper than my old driver, yours is at least 2dB more efficient too, so it should be noticeable with enough power.

redbird555

Thanks man!

The issue isn't so much with the depth it's that due to the curvature of the wheel well anything over a 10" is going to have a hard time fitting down I there. In the 2nd pic you can kinda see what I'm talking about, the wheel well is going to prevent a larger normal depth sub from sitting in the box.

JL makes a 4 ohm and 2ohm version of this sub, mine is a 4 and the amp is bridged to 4 ohm. The 13tw5 here has the foot print of a 12 or just a hair more. You might be able to squeeze a 15 in the opening but you'd have to raise the box up to get depth and the width and I'm not sure if the trunk would allow that being as mine is about 2" below the hatch when closed.

But yes it absolutely has enough hit to thump your chest, shake mirrors etc and I really don't have it cranked up at all. The sub and amp are way ahead of the rest of the stereo system lol.

02BlownZ06

That looks great. I wish I had learned that skill!!