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Hello all,
A little embarrassing asking these questions as I owned my own car audio shop back in the 80's, and 90's but it's been a long time, so advice is appreciated.
I am going to be removing the old, outdated Bose system from my newly acquired 94 coupe and have a few questions. Keep in mind that I am not looking for an audio file system here, just a decent sound with 4 corners... No subs or amps or anything fancy, just a basic 50wX4 head unit and four speakers.. Understanding that I will be looking for a speaker impedance of 4 ohms and preferred sensitivity of 90-92db @ 1W @1M if possible.
1. Is the best option for rear speakers to remove Bose cabinets and install 6X9's if so, is there a 6X9 aftermarket adaptor available to do this, or do I need to fabricate one?
2. Is the best option for the front speakers a set of 6.5 inch and 1 inch tweeter separates? Understanding the power requirements and low sensitivity of 86-89db for separates going through a cross over, perhaps just a 2 or 3 way 6.5 would be best? Best bang for the buck still Pioneer?
3. I see that there are already accessory wires under the center console for 12 volt battery, "Orange" and ground "Black", and maybe ignition, "yellow", and these may also be found in the harness behind the existing head unit, no? So are the only wires I need to run from the cubby behind the driver seat the antenna trigger wire, "blue" and actual antenna cable?
4. How long of an antenna extension cable do I need?
5. What is the configuration needed for antenna cable? Female peanut to male standard? Where can I get one?
I will also be running all new speaker wires for each corner as well as a rear camera.. The new head unit will probably be a Kenwood DMX7704S, so other than the two USB cables and power, ground, battery, speakers, antenna trigger, illumination... Which are all pretty normal, I guess the only other wire that will be new to me will be the reverse power wire, back up camera and??? Anything I am missing here?
Feel free to make suggestions understanding that I have installed probably about 8,000 systems in my day to include write ups in major industry magazines, entering IASCA competitions etc... Not honking my own horn here, just a lot of experience in the past, but a lot has changed over the past 30 plus years and I am trying to humble myself asking these questions. Your current experience is greatly appreciated.
For the antenna extension, I can't seem to find a one piece solution, so do I need to buy these components to extend it from behind the seat to the new head unit?
Or is it easier to just run a new standard cable directly to the antenna?
I will reply, I just cannot at the moment.. this is my reminder to do so later today (Hopefully)
Thanks Jeff, looking forward to your reply... Someone posted here in the past not to use the Bose Cabinets for aftermarket speakers and that the factory Bose speakers are only 1 ohm to allow a 50W output with only 12.5W, which in and of itself makes sense on paper, but the thoery stating that the Bose cabinets won’t work with aftermarket speakers doesn’t seem to be realistic advise to me. I understand that they are tuned to that specific speaker and the port is also designed for that speaker as well, but as for speakers in general, I can’t figure out why the Bose cabinet wouldn’t be okay for an aftermarket speaker as well. As long as the throw of the cone is similar and the air displacement is also similar, that cabinet should still perform fine even with another speaker right? I’m sure that I have done this in the past with customers vehicles and had good results and I certainly don’t remember it ever being a major concern.
with all of that said, a 6.5 high sensativity speaker in the Bose Cabinet would probably sound better than a 6X9 in that space with the Bose cabinet removed I suspect. I know that there is some additional air space behind the Bose cabinet once removed and in order to create an environment for a 6X9 to perform well in that space I would need to stuff some insulation back up in there to create a seudo 6x9 cabinet of sorts by using the cars body work as the cabinet. This is obviously much less scientific than a tuned port cabinet like the on in the car from Bose, but still works. This is why I feel that a 6.5 stuffed in that Bose cabinet might just be the best way to go..... thoughts?
Also, what size aftermarket fits best in the front Bose cabinet to replace this one, 4" or 5 1/4"??
I'm thinking that the best speakers are probably the JBL 429 and 629 with sensitivity ratings of 92 and 93 Db.
The front bose enclosures are small....like .125 cubic feet (or somewhere around there) It will be hard to get an aftermarket 6.5 to play below 150 hz in such a small enclosure. Remember aftermarket 6.5s are typically designed to operate free-air in a door. Smaller more robust speakers crossed over around 100 hz are your best bet if you are intending to keep the bose enclosures (or the base enclosures for that matter). There is no more space to be had by removing the enclosures. Behind them is the frame rail, not an open cavity that you can use to your advantage. The bose cabinets will need an adapter to fit any aftermarket speaker, Look at the pictures below of the bose and base; the bose are molded to fit that weird 3 hole flange and also are not flush across the front making it impossible to just make the hole bigger and mount a speaker. This is why people say to get the non-bose front enclosures. It's easier to modify them.
The rears are a ported 6.5 in i think about .5 cubic feet. There are stock 6x9 panels that will bolt right in
Dave, really summed up what I was going to say. I will add, that running a new cable from the back for the antenna might be worth it since you need to run it form the storage box anyway.
You want to run all new wires for the speakers, that is what I did.
As for the Radio, I looked at the DMX7704s as well, they seem decently priced right now an I have considered swapping that in my car. I currently have an alpine that I like, but I think I would like Apple Car Play. My Alpine does not have that functionality.it also has a few other things I would like. one thing I don't like is after level 15 (1/2 way) you need to press-release to increase volume. may not be a big deal. Just went through the hedunit thing last year and after having a good unit, I now think a more integrated unit with Android auto/Car play is better for me.
The front bose enclosures are small....like .125 cubic feet (or somewhere around there) It will be hard to get an aftermarket 6.5 to play below 150 hz in such a small enclosure. Remember aftermarket 6.5s are typically designed to operate free-air in a door. Smaller more robust speakers crossed over around 100 hz are your best bet if you are intending to keep the bose enclosures (or the base enclosures for that matter). There is no more space to be had by removing the enclosures. Behind them is the frame rail, not an open cavity that you can use to your advantage. The bose cabinets will need an adapter to fit any aftermarket speaker, Look at the pictures below of the bose and base; the bose are molded to fit that weird 3 hole flange and also are not flush across the front making it impossible to just make the hole bigger and mount a speaker. This is why people say to get the non-bose front enclosures. It's easier to modify them.
The rears are a ported 6.5 in i think about .5 cubic feet. There are stock 6x9 panels that will bolt right in
Thanks Dave, this is what I was looking for. So looks like I need to find and buy the front non Bose cabinets and rear 6x9 factory plates from non Bose cars.
I will start looking for these and then probably buy a pair of 6x9’s and either a 4x6 for the fronts or a 4 inch with separate tweeter.
Any idea where I can get the factory enclosures and rear plates?
I found all four non Bose speakers plastics along with factory speakers, which I don’t need on eBay for $56.00... pretty good deal. I’m just going to install Pioneer 6x9’s in the back and Pioneer 4x6’s in the front. Can’t go wrong with Pioneer speakers...
thx.
It has been years since I installed a Double Din in a 96. I pretty much did what you are doing, going with the built-in output (no amp), and aftermarket speakers using base front speaker mounts.
I seem to remember using a Metra 70-1856 harness, which connected the stereo to the factory harness connector in the storage bin that was connected to the tuner module. I then ran the speaker wires from the storage area to each speaker. This harness has the antenna extension, power antenna lead, speakers, and power included. I used the power from the storage connector to power the stereo, as the factory wiring for the stereo is quite small.
Also, if your car has the base A/C, you will need to do the resistor mod to the illumination circuits that feed the factory head unit. Otherwise, you will be getting a constant "sys" flashing in your dash. This circuit feeds the illumination for both the factory head unit and if equipped, the electronic A/C. If both the factory head unit and an electronic A/C display are no longer drawing current, the computer displays the "sys" error message. The last 96 I had was equipped with the electronic A/C, so that was enough by itself to keep the computer happy, so there was no "sys" error.
It has been years since I installed a Double Din in a 96. I pretty much did what you are doing, going with the built-in output (no amp), and aftermarket speakers using base front speaker mounts.
I seem to remember using a Metra 70-1856 harness, which connected the stereo to the factory harness connector in the storage bin that was connected to the tuner module. I then ran the speaker wires from the storage area to each speaker. This harness has the antenna extension, power antenna lead, speakers, and power included. I used the power from the storage connector to power the stereo, as the factory wiring for the stereo is quite small.
Also, if your car has the base A/C, you will need to do the resistor mod to the illumination circuits that feed the factory head unit. Otherwise, you will be getting a constant "sys" flashing in your dash. This circuit feeds the illumination for both the factory head unit and if equipped, the electronic A/C. If both the factory head unit and an electronic A/C display are no longer drawing current, the computer displays the "sys" error message. The last 96 I had was equipped with the electronic A/C, so that was enough by itself to keep the computer happy, so there was no "sys" error.
Okay cool... I am a little confused and could use some clarification on a few points here. Are you saying that the Metra wiring harness used plugged into the wiring harness in the storage compartment that plugs into the Bose amplifier/tuner, and then you ran wires from there to the head unit? Seems to me that the wires that plug into the factory head unit would provide ignition power, ground, battery power, power antenna/amp lead and illumination power correct? So other than running the fat black antenna cable from the head unit area back to the antenna itself and running 4 new speaker wires to the head unit, what else is there to do? Is there a Metra wiring harness that plugs into the plugs that come out of the factory head unit? Seems to me that the Metra 70-1856 is needed if you want to bypass the factory Bose tuner and continue to use the factory amplifiers correct? What I am doing completely removes the Bose system 100%, new speaker wires to new speakers then run directly to the new head unit. All I need for the new head unit are power and ground wires, battery, illumination and antenna trigger wire. Let me know if I am missing something...
I understand the potential illumination power draw issue and my car has upgraded climate control, not basic A/C, so hopefully I will be fine, if not I will be doing research on which resistor I need to wire inline on that circuit to correct an erroneous system warning light if it happens.
I think I have fully decided on components and since I have located and purchased the 4 factory non-Bose speaker plastics, I will put 6x9's in the rear and 4x6's in the front. Here is a list of components I believe I will need:
1. Ai GMK311 1990-1996 Chevrolet Corvette Dash Kit
1. SCOSCHE GM02BCB 1988-01 General Motor Vehicles Power / 4 Speaker Harness, Pre-terminated with Butt Connectors
1.
Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-4201NEX Double-DIN Multimedia DVD Car Stereo with 7" WVGA Touchscreen Display with Android Auto/Apple Carplay/Backup Camera
Front Speakers:
Rear Speakers: Pioneer TSA6966R TS-A6966R 6" X 9" 3-Way Speaker
Originally I was going to go with a Kenwood head unit, but after reading a ton of reviews comparing Kenwood to Pioneer, I believe that Pioneer is a better choice. I am certainly open to your perspective on the differences and would like to hear pros and cons etc...
You need the long harness that runs to where the CDM is mounted. http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-1856. It comes with the antenna wire you need. The connectors behind the bose HU will not give you what you need, and if you unplug/remove the CDM, will not have any power etc. If you haven't already, you should read this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...audio-faq.html
In my car I have that harness, I de-pinned it and pulled all the speaker wires out since I ran all new wire from my amps. It carries the illumination, power, ground, switched and antenna up to my HU from the harness in the passenger side storage bin.
You need the long harness that runs to where the CDM is mounted. http://www.metraonline.com/part/70-1856. It comes with the antenna wire you need. The connectors behind the bose HU will not give you what you need, and if you unplug/remove the CDM, will not have any power etc. If you haven't already, you should read this: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...audio-faq.html
In my car I have that harness, I de-pinned it and pulled all the speaker wires out since I ran all new wire from my amps. It carries the illumination, power, ground, switched and antenna up to my HU from the harness in the passenger side storage bin.
Dave,
Excellent, thank you.. I wasn’t thinking that when the tuner module behind the drivers seat is unplugged that the head unit would also lose power etc... I understand why you need to use the harness and run the new wires to the head unit from behind the seat now thx.
Just curious though..... imagine this scenario: step 1. leave tuner module behond drivers seat plugged in. Step 2. Remove Bose head unit. Step 3. Use factory head unit wires, “still live” for ignition, illunination, and ant trigger. Step 4. Use battery and ground wires already located under center console. Step 5. Run new antenna wire to antenna itself. Step 6. Install 4 new speakers and speaker wires to new head unit. DONE
I’m sure I must be missing something because this would be the easiest way to go, but seems like it should work to me?
thoughts? The obvious rebuttal would be, “If you’re going to run a new antenna wire anyway, you may as well run all the other wires at the same time amd just unplug the tuner”.
I did read that thread, great information there.... I will probably just remove the tuner and run new wires as recommended since it’s the cleanest way and also will allow me to remove and sell my entire Bose system to include the tuner module. But I do find it curious that my steps above should, in theory work.... right?
I believe with the stock radio system, you need both the CDM and the HU hooked up if you want ANY functionality. Disconnecting the HU makes it so there is no way to turn on the CDM, and therefore there will be no power. At least I think i read that somewhere. Also “If you’re going to run a new antenna wire anyway, you may as well run all the other wires at the same time and just unplug the tuner”. There's no need to re-invent the wheel. The harness exists for a reason. I don't think there is an easier way.
I believe with the stock radio system, you need both the CDM and the HU hooked up if you want ANY functionality. Disconnecting the HU makes it so there is no way to turn on the CDM, and therefore there will be no power. At least I think i read that somewhere. Also “If you’re going to run a new antenna wire anyway, you may as well run all the other wires at the same time and just unplug the tuner”. There's no need to re-invent the wheel. The harness exists for a reason. I don't think there is an easier way.
LOL.... yeah, I already ordered the new harness.
Thanks.
06-21-2018, 01:10 PM
94 Coupe antenna and general wiring questions
There's no need to re-invent the wheel. The harness exists for a reason. I don't think there is an easier way.