Dave_in_VA

All,

I've read lots of threads on sound deadening of C6 doors, all see to go in different directions.

Even some respected forum vendors say sound deadening of doors does not make much difference.

I have butyl matt and 1/4 and 1/2 inch thick Dynaliner that I can use on the doors.

Any recommendations on how to proceed?

Thanks,

Dave

VinceC5

I did my car in several stages. 1st I did sound deadening of inner and outer door skins along with covering up the window motor access. It made such a big difference that I did not go to the next phase for several months. I used Dynamat Xtreme, so I don't have any experience with dynaliner.

Callaway DrDon

I think it made a definite difference in the doors. I did not deaden any other areas. With the stock system, certain bass notes would cause some rattle or vibration in the doors. Now running an aftermarket amp....no sounds in the doors that should not be there. I bought the door dynomat kit from Crutchfield. My thought was.......while the door panels are off and you are changing the speakers, mighta s well add deadening of some sort.

Pb82 Ronin

So funny story...I thought butyl based deadener (IE dynamat, CLD tiles, Kollossus, etc) was enough to quiet the doors. Then I went and added MLV to the floor, hatch, and waterfall areas...and guess what? All the road noise is coming through the doors again. The MLV is absolutely the BEST thing you can do to quiet your perceived road noise. But MLV is too heavy to run vertically (like in a door). So what did I do? I bought some CAE VB2 (because it is the thinnest vinyl with good adhesion) and (after stripping all the butyl stuff back off) applied it, and some HMF (a hydrophobic Closed Cell Foam) to the back of the door cards, and then Fast rings on the speakers, and then butyl based deadener on the troubling "vibrating/rattling" areas, I got it to finally quiet down.
(CAE VB2) http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_nois...tallation.html
(HMF)