C4 Dry Sump
06-23-2006, 08:33 AM
#101
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I have been running a 4 stage dry sump in a c4 since 95 works great.It is mounted above the headers and does not lose prime I also run a 3gal tank mounted in the passanger comperment.If someone can tell me how to post pic.I will.
06-23-2006, 12:50 PM
#102
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I extend the same offer. Just email them to me and I'll post them.
swiftwood@aol.com
Nice to know it won't loose prime, seems to be the best place to put it.
swiftwood@aol.com
Nice to know it won't loose prime, seems to be the best place to put it.
06-23-2006, 01:30 PM
#103
Le Mans Master
Thanks for the images WNDOPDLR (& BrianCunningham).
The package looks like it fits well.
Some questions
.
The package looks like it fits well.
Some questions
- Can you speak a bit about the bearing the jackshaft pulleys spin on?
Is it a ball, roller or ... What id/od is it? - Is the cylinder on the crossmember an in-line filter?
- Is the oil reservoir topped up from the cockpit?
- Are those -10 lines?
- Do you think that the pulley system could accomodate an R-D Camber-Brace?
The secondary drive seems high enough to possibly be above one. - Is the idler mounted above the water pump new or was it in service before?
.
06-24-2006, 08:24 AM
#104
Burning Brakes
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Slalom-Glad to respond but would like to say first that I appreciate your contributions to this forum on many issues conerning the C4's. I have learned much from you.
The bearings are needle bearings. Next time I pull it apart I will get you ID & OD. One of my conerns is that the cogs on the jack shaft are aluminum. Steel was not available in what we needed. As this system develops, I will probably switch to steel and have them heat treated for better life. For now, I carry spares, but hope I don't need them.
The red cylinder is an inline oil filter.
THe is a #16 AN line going to the oil resevoir. Remove the cap and fill the resivoir. Pictures show a clear, plastic tube, "sightglass" that is used in checking oil level
Yup-#10's
Not sure about the camber brace. Dave is a great guy. If you or he get me what you need, I will see if I can get you some dimensions. Oil filter may need to be moved to another location.
The idler is also new. I had gutted my air pump a long time ago and was just using the pulley to take up slack on the belt. This cleaned up that area and got rid of some weight that was high CG.
Let me know if you think of any more questions.
The bearings are needle bearings. Next time I pull it apart I will get you ID & OD. One of my conerns is that the cogs on the jack shaft are aluminum. Steel was not available in what we needed. As this system develops, I will probably switch to steel and have them heat treated for better life. For now, I carry spares, but hope I don't need them.
The red cylinder is an inline oil filter.
THe is a #16 AN line going to the oil resevoir. Remove the cap and fill the resivoir. Pictures show a clear, plastic tube, "sightglass" that is used in checking oil level
Yup-#10's
Not sure about the camber brace. Dave is a great guy. If you or he get me what you need, I will see if I can get you some dimensions. Oil filter may need to be moved to another location.
The idler is also new. I had gutted my air pump a long time ago and was just using the pulley to take up slack on the belt. This cleaned up that area and got rid of some weight that was high CG.
Let me know if you think of any more questions.
06-24-2006, 08:53 AM
#105
Drifting
Sweet Job man! I had been wondering about mounting the pump "upside down" seems it's a non issue. Are you using regular engine mounts, or did you fab custom ones to lower the enginen in the chassis?
I also have my oil res in the passenger cubby, it sticks out a bit since it's 5Gal and really my concern is being cooked like a french fry in the event of an accident. I cant really think of any other place it could go short of building my self a new fuel cell and placing it back there.
I guess I could just sew up a really Big "diaper" for it, but the craftsmanship on it is so good it's almost a shame to cover it.
I also have my oil res in the passenger cubby, it sticks out a bit since it's 5Gal and really my concern is being cooked like a french fry in the event of an accident. I cant really think of any other place it could go short of building my self a new fuel cell and placing it back there.
I guess I could just sew up a really Big "diaper" for it, but the craftsmanship on it is so good it's almost a shame to cover it.
Last edited by Baldturbofreak; 06-24-2006 at 08:59 AM.
06-24-2006, 12:43 PM
#106
Burning Brakes
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[QUOTE=Baldturbofreak]Sweet Job man! I had been wondering about mounting the pump "upside down" seems it's a non issue. Are you using regular engine mounts, or did you fab custom ones to lower the enginen in the chassis?
Motor mounts ate stock GM parts. Thanks for the compliments. I considered mounting an oil tank in the cockpit and using an electric DC motor to drive the pump from there, but I was more concerned about the extra heat. Gets warm enough on the track without adding to the level of discomfort.
Motor mounts ate stock GM parts. Thanks for the compliments. I considered mounting an oil tank in the cockpit and using an electric DC motor to drive the pump from there, but I was more concerned about the extra heat. Gets warm enough on the track without adding to the level of discomfort.
06-25-2006, 10:08 AM
#108
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Man, that is tight in there. Has anyone considered getting an LS7 crate engine? My Chevy dealer says they are $13K new in the box. It is already set-up for dry sump (well perhaps "damp") and you could get the OE tank or a Peterson. It is awfully hard to get that kind of power, torque and reliability out of an L98 or LT1, then do all the extra dry sump plumbing. I am convinced that for Road Racing, a dry sump is the only real solution, and is totally worth the hassle.
06-25-2006, 02:03 PM
#109
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there's an LSX swap thread over in C4 Tech now.
It's now worth the hassle in my mind.
If you thought plumbing a dry sump is hard try an LSX swap
Besides for about $13k you can just about buy an already prepared C4 complete!
A hot cammed LTX makes about 420+hp, a 383 will make over 500hp.
With a dry sump you can mount turbos down low, or use that cog setup to drive a blower. either way well over 700hp. and you can do it for under $13k.
It's now worth the hassle in my mind.
If you thought plumbing a dry sump is hard try an LSX swap
Besides for about $13k you can just about buy an already prepared C4 complete!
A hot cammed LTX makes about 420+hp, a 383 will make over 500hp.
With a dry sump you can mount turbos down low, or use that cog setup to drive a blower. either way well over 700hp. and you can do it for under $13k.
06-25-2006, 02:53 PM
#110
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damn thats a tight fit
