wtknght1

Theoretically, if you had the money, you could probably race every weekend somewhere regionally. Most regions have their own points system and champion and you have to run the majority of your races in the region you register. For instance, in the Southeast, they have the SARRC (South Atlantic Road Racing Championship).

Most folks however, use the regional stuff as a stepping stone to the national level - where the competition (and speed/money) really heats up.

Here's what I did to get to the National level and get enough races to go to the runoffs in my first year.

Late 2000: Finished my car and did my SCCA licensing school. (You normally need 2 schools for a novice license, but I had so much seat time, that my 2d school was waved).

Did a few regional races (with my novice permit), kept my nose clean and got my regional license.

2001: Continued doing regional races until I got 4 of them to get my national license. It's important to run clean and not get into any scrapes...and not get DNFs.

March 2001: Did my first National race and subsequently 3 more later on that year. You need 3 races and at least 1 more start to keep your national license and do the minimum to get to the runoffs. Depending on what division you're in, you may have to acquire enough points to be in the top 10 (in your division) to get to the runoffs. But, generally, if you get 4 good races in there, you'll make it into the show.

After that, to keep your national license, you just need those 4 national races. Most Divisions have about 10 races and if you're good enough, and beat the other folks, your best 6 races count toward a Division Championship.

There's more to it than that, but those are the basics. The biggest thing to get a well sorted, reliable car, get lots of seat time, then get more seat time, and run clean races.

Sponsorship is another avenue all together. The best way is to drive well. After that, and if you can build an impressive resume', is just get out and talk to folks who can help. One way I manged to get some help from Kumho was to beat the other drivers (some were contract drivers) who were using Kumhos tires. Some companies (Kumho, GM Performance, Summit, etc) offer contingency money, which is a reward for doing well in the races. It could be either cash or tires or parts or whatever.

Some of it too is just being at the right place at the right time.

Z11409

If you gotta ask how much--You cannot afford it.

Maineiac

Your enlightening input has greatly increased the overall value of this thread....thanks for sharing.

plaster

SO best bet would be to start with a cheap 99 FRC? I assume there are equalizing formulas for lesser hp cars?

AU N EGL

Nope.

You looking at road racing, SCCA or NASA or auto-x??

Cars hp and other modifications put into a class. Minor things move up classess too.

SCCA T1 class is the Stock corvette class for road racing ( koff) well almost stock

NASA has the Vet Viper Challange and Big Bore options.

It is less expensive to buy a used race car then to build one. Some times when starting out this is a good way to go.

wtknght1

The 99 FRCs that run in T1 have been upgraded to Z06 specs - LS6 engine, lighter glass, etc.

As has been said (by me and many others), never try to build your own car. Buy one that has been prepped by the pros and routinely runs up front...and is reliable. You'll save yourself tons of time, effort and especially money. I highly recommend the guys at Phoenix Performance.

plaster

Road racing. As others have stated, DE's are nice, but I really have always yerned for actual racing.
I figured an already prepped car is cheaper (wanted to buy the Phoenix car, but pretty sure they don't take first borns), but was thinking about what one would already have, such as a FRC. I have a 500hp Coupe, so didn't think there would be a place for me (except possibly an all out gutted race car).

plaster

You must have been watching while I was typing!
So how do the techs check to see that everyone is running a fairly 'legal' car (cam, compression, gearing,etc)?

Z11409

http://www.ffrchallenge.com/ Factory Five like Miata,Neon racing is a little bid cheaper on the wallet.

AU N EGL

Engines are sealled by some builders. Of if some one protests your car is impounded and torn apart.

Used T1 cars run 30-35,000. But to build a T1 car runs 25,000 plus you provide the car.

There are other options too.

C4 TCC-ITE
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/65318...e-TCC-ITE.html

GT1 Roller, need engine 6900
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/66276...-Race-Car.html

ebay has a bunch of road race cars for sale
http://motors.listings.ebay.com/Race...istingItemList

SCCA Sports Car mag: cars for sale
http://www.sccasportscar.com/showroom.asp?offset=80

Insted of just building a car, may want to ask yourself where do you wan to race?? What type of cars?? then look at the rules for that class.

plaster

As always, I learned new information in this section.

FastZR1

There are several T1 cars for sale out there right now. Finding a T1 winner isn't hard either. There are two '01 Z06s built by SBW who raced and won with the cars for sale right now. Not a bad way to go if your just getting in. Those cars can still be raced for another 4-5 years too. By then you'll want a new race car anyway. I see a couple Phoenix built cars for sale too. Just look around, there is some nice, already sorted out race cars that can be had for a reasonable price.

Ed

plaster

Yes, I have sorted through some classifieds and got ideas on how much a prepped car will cost - there was an F body on ebay that was nice (and near me) that didn't sell for low teens.
My problem is that I don't have twenty thousand to buy a car, therefore must go through the bank and then insurance - not sure if they would go for the roll cage. I have a mechanically sound 500 hp coupe that will be paid off in a year - deliberating on whether I should go with the suspension updates or sell it and get one prepped as you and others have mentioned.

BuckeyeZ06

Many race cars are built off of salvage title cars. I think it would be hard to get financing for a car with that type of title. Hence, you really need to think about paying cash for the car, or finding other financing alternatives.

Buying a used race car is substantially less expensive than building one from scratch; trust me, I have done both.

Also, once you go racing, driving a hi-po street car will not be a priority anymore (IMHO).

wtknght1

It's not hard to tell really. And, if you do well and make it to the runoffs and finish high enough, they inspect your car for such things like that.

You could also be protested by another racer(s) if they think you're doing something fishy. Normally a cash bond is issued along with the protest. If your legal, you get the $$, if not, you get to fix your car and maybe a fine or something more severe.

I will tell you this though. If you break into one of these engines and start screwing around with it - cam, etc., you will have just pulled the pin on the grenade. There's no guarantee it will be stronger and it most likely will not last...and you'll end up spending much more $$ in the long run. Plus, it's not a helluva lot of fun beating somebody with a superior car - just about anybody can do that. The Viper guys know that real well.

plaster

I think this is my hang up - I still want my street car - but can't afford both.

BuckeyeZ06

Geez, Chris. Can't have a conversation with you without a dig, can we? BTW: you beat a Viper recently, didn't you?

Gatorac

I'm currently going down the road to an SCCA competion license. My first novice school is July 15th and 16th at Sebring. Because of costs, I'm considering Spec Racer Ford. These are inexpensive true race cars. $16-$20k for a used one. Money won't buy horsepower as the engines are sealed. The new tires last several races before the are not competitive anymore. There's a lot of competition and that means you should always have someone to race with even if your not at the front.

For the novice school I'm renting one. $2000 for the weekend and they take care of everything so I can concentrate on the driving.

Just an option to consider.

BuckeyeZ06

A Spec Racer is a very good choice, about as "sensible" as you are going to get in racing.

I went the T1 Vette route at first because of "snob appeal." Yes, I admit it, I am a snob...

When people find out that you race, they inevitably ask "what do you drive?" It is easier to explain "Corvette" than "Spec Racer Ford." (If you don't get my point, you would if we were talking face-to-face).

But the pricing difference is big. Although I hear that there are games involved with SRF: sealed motors having variances of + or 1 2 HP. That could be a 4 HP difference between two. That's big when you are talking 110 HP.

Tires may last 2-3 races, but that first heat cycle is where the tire is fastest, usually 1/2 second or better. Big difference? Check out a qualifying sheet for SRF and see where a 1/2 second puts you further back in the field.

wtknght1

That wasn't a dig at you Dave...mostly Scotty! ha ha

I beat Jim Lynch at Memphis. But it was his first time in the car...and he ran a faster race lap than I did. He basically parked it in the corners and then rocketed away with all that torque. I also beat AJ at Sebring, but I think that was just because his LR tire (camber/toe) was all dorked up. He corded the LR during the race. AJ came back at Homestead and dusted everybody...including Heinricy. No offense to AJ, but he's not on par talent wise with JH...but beat him handily...in his Viper. The years before, he never got even close to JH with his Vette. I can only draw one conclusion from that: VIPER = OVERDOG.

I still have hope that you'll come back to the ranks of the underdog Vettes buddy.