1998 GTR

I KNOW! . . . It's probably been asked a million times, but I did a search and didn't really come up with an answer . . . At least for stock C5 wheels.

So what tires and what sizes should I buy for track use (road course)? And WHERE can I buy them? These would be for track use only. I'll haul them to the track and swap them out at the track -- NOT drive to the track on them. They will be going on stock C5 size (NOT Z06 size) wagon wheels.

Thanks for your advise!

Dave

speedneed

Wow,

Nobody responed to you? I'd like to know what tires to use on the track and be able to drive on the street. I have a C6 Z51 and have to replace tires soon. Should I stick with the stock tires? Anybody?

gonzalezfj

Call Hoosier Tom (Midatlantic Motorsports), tell him I sent you. Tom will take care of you. Hoosier R6s for you.

574-243-5553


Frank Gonzalez

StArrow68

As I understand, but don't do it myself, if you can find used scrub's, race tires with just a bit of wear on them, you will get the most bang for the buck. Then there are DOT-R tires that are very fast as well and cost more, I think.

I think you know, I'm still running street tires after three years on track. And there are reasons. I've driven on race slicks in open wheel cars and gotten fast enough to know that they can break loose very quickly, not as true with street tires which will howl a lot, usually, and give you more warning. Race cars are set up to crash and be fixed, not as true with street cars. There are many with more experience but I also find that a C5 stock engine car on streets is a really fast track car. With better grip it can go faster yet which is some times beyond driver development, classes with good instruction will take you very fast on any tire. IMHO
Randy

Gordy M

If you can get a lot of rear camber (1.5+) then the hoosier R6 will work on stock wheels. 275/40x17 front and 295/30x18 rears. You should check your rake as the wheels are about even in diameter. These work on the stock size C5 rims.

TRACKMAN2

try kumo victoracers they are dirt cheep and will give you all the traction you will ever need.. the traction curve is high and flat and goes away slowly.. a true race tire will have more traction but will let go all at once when pushed to the edge... not good for beginers.. good luck....

yakisoba

I'm running on scrubs. I'd not buy new tires at this point, though that might change. Mine are 17" all around, which seems to be a bit cheaper to equip. I will also run on street tires from time to time, and especially in the rain. The track tires took some getting used to. I had four or five sessions on streets before I went to the scrubs, and I'm glad I waited. The Hoosiers and GY and Kumho I've had don't give alot of warning when they turn loose. If I had not learned the streets to the edge before I went to the other rubber, I'd have spun more. Your milage may vary.
--Yak

ImaRoadDog

I have the Victoracers and love them, however, they don't make them in 18" for your rear wagon wheels. I would highly recommend getting a dedicated set of track wheels, 17X9, and run Victoracers (I have the 275's) on all four wheels. You can also rotate them that way and even reverse them on the wheels to get more wear and track use out of them. Good luck.

wtknght1

Yeah, you really need to think about a dedicated set of wheels and tires. Most of the T1 guys run 17" (17x10F and 11 Rear) all around and I love the Kumho V710s. You can buy used scrubs from us all day long and get tons of seat time...cheaply. And the Kumhos, unlike many of the racing tires out there, are much more linear than anything I've ever driven on. In other words - no abrupt breakaway! There is no 'snap' oversteer or understeer with these tires...very, very easy tire to drive quickly.

Try 'em all though and decide for yourself. The idea is to get the most seat time for the $$. Good luck!!

1998 GTR

Thanks guys for all the input! Lots of good info. I had never thought about the issue of stickier tires breaking loose more abruptly - Makes sense!

Where would I buy "scrubs" from? And at what kind of prices?

Thanks!

Dave

1998 GTR

So I assume I can get the rear camber reset at a good alignment shop that is familiar with racing set ups??? There is one not far from me.

Rookie question, but why is the negative camber needed to make the Hoosiers work on stock wagon wheels? And can that amount of negative camber on the rear be run on my street tires without major wear or handling issues? I drive the car pretty regularly on the street, but wanted to see what I should do as far as just bolting on a set of track tires/wheels for the ocassional track event. If the camber needed to be reset each time I went from street to track and visa versa, I'd probably pass on that kind of set up.

Thanks for all the info!

Dave

Wicked Weasel

I just ran the V710s yesterday at Limerock. I was very impressed with these tires. There seemed to be plenty of warning when something was about to go wrong (luckily I never got that far).


Negative Camber - I run -1.5 in the front and -1.0 in the rear. This seems to be good for both track and street usage. You might see some more wear on street tires.

1998 GTR

Thanks for the info! I can live with a little wear on the street tires.

Dave