varkwso

I have a C5 Dewitt right side oil cooler (passenger side fittings) with a hideously expensive piece of aluminum (HEPA) bolted just above the oil filter. Once I buy two more AN male fittings for the HEPA I will be ready to get some AN10 hose with the female fittings to attach the two components. Since I bought this stuff NNS (new new stock) from Cass I went to the Dewitt site for instructions (I even looked in the box) and came up dry.

Anybody know what lengths I need to get fabricated?

Also does it matter where each hose hooks up to the block - e.g., lower radiator to rear fitting on HEPA and upper to the front? Vice Versa?

After getting the new RPM trans in, new torque tube bushings (1 LGM aluminum - another impressively expensive piece of AL - and 1 BMW - $78.76 in stock at the dealer), the VBP suspension and bushings, hardbar camber blocks/studs, new water pump, new belts, new hoses, new O2 sensors and a few other misc items I am really, really ready for this car to be back on the road...

Thanks in advance,

jeff

davidfarmer

I would spend $20 on a cutting tool from summit, and just measure and build your own fittings. If that is not an option, I'll try and get a rough measurement tonight. Is your car so dissasembled that you can't measure the lengths. Basically the width of the engine, plus the length of the engine, plus another 6" to cover the spread between the engine and radiator.

see5

I just did this and as Dave says make a craft project of it. There are many routing and fitting possibilities. 8 feet of hose is plenty for the left side cooler.
I used 90s at the radiator and a 45 and a 90 on the block. Some abrasion hose and a foot or two of heat shield is helpful.

2000BSME

8 feet is NOT plenty. I used 10' on my drivers side cooler hose routing... he's still got to make it across the radiator.

I used pushlock hose and fittings from Summit. This is the easiest and best way to accomplish the job, imho.

Also, make sure to use some heat protectant wrap on the hoses, so the headers or exhaust don't brittle/burn the hose.

varkwso

I just spent a small fortune on three 90 degree, one 45 degree, and two male fittings. The hose comes in 3, 6 and 10 foot lengths. My old heater hose method (that I had in the shop) had me at ~4 feet - so I expect to have a little left over at the end when I pick up the 10 foot piece. Being an engineering kind of guy I sure wish the instructions included the specific lengths and fittings. It is for a specific application after all....

How did you get 10 feet of hose from the left side of the block to the left side of the radiator?

Heat wrap is also on the list.

This better be worth the $$ and time!

0Tom@Dewitt

We do sell oil line/adpater kits but 99% of our radiators are purchased with the EOC on the left and we never made one for the right side. I would guess it would about 5ft each, with the upper length being 6" longer. You could do us a huge favor by finding out the best length so we can add the right side kit to our product line. I'd take an old garden hose, cut it up and practice the routing with cheap stuff. When you know the exact lengths, make the final assemblies. But do post them, I'd like to know too!

First, I think he means 5ft each (10ft cut in half).
2nd, I think you meant the RIGHT SIDE of radiator?

tcmc5

Geez, you've had that thing for almost a year now - it's about time you got around to installing it. You're gonna like that bushing kit, too, once you get it done. Car should rock once you get it back on track.

2000BSME

If I remember correctly, the front facing line coming from the block needs to feed the BOTTOM cooler inlet. It does matter, for a proper cooler oil fill, oil should come in at the bottom and push UP.

I don't know that it is worth the time an money. I swear I spent more time doing this job than when I put the headers on...

I used right at 5' for each line on my install, but I had the left side block and the left side cooler. If you have the right side cooler, I suspect that you may use a fair bit more line than that.

varkwso

Hey, I've been busy . They sat in my formal living room since I picked them up from you! It makes a great "clean parts" storage unit - the wheel bearings are still there. My wife fussed when I kept a couple of used Porsche halfshafts in there though! It is hard to find an understanding spouse I guess. Who made that block I bought from you anyway? You bought a new track car yet!!!

I will try to measure when I am done fitting and even try a few photos for the routing.

The headers had to come off to remove the torque tube so they are still off for this job. I am not sure the headers are worth the pain for a road course C5 though....

Timz06

Along the same lines, do you need a special tool to cut the hose? I was just going to use normal tools? Also, attaching the fittings, I didn't use any special tools..?

tcmc5

No new track car yet. Been thinking about a GTO, however. I just want something I can drive to the track 4 or 5 weekends and enjoy driving on the street. A '05 or '06 GTO with an upgraded suspension and brakes could be fun. Sounds like I'd have to modify the pedals to make for good heel-and-toe downshifting, however.
As for the fully priced block adaptor, I bought it from LG.

varkwso

using the LG motor block I have from Cass, Earls 45 fitting on the block and 90 on the rad the lower "pressure" line is 43 inches long. The upper return line is 56.5 inches long with two Earls 90s. Routing seems fine but I have not installed the headers yet on the driver's side. The hose, fittings and heat wrap knocked another $250 hole in my wallet.

Based on this install, I will just continue to lift when the oil gets hot in the ZO6 - unless of course I am in front of TimZo6 (as usual).

The Dewitt radiator alone should be a big help without the hassle of an oil cooler.

0Tom@Dewitt

Jeff, those hose lengths sound a little short for a rightside EOC. I'm ok with the 56" but the other one is only 3-1/2 feet?

varkwso

I double checked. With the LG motor block, Earls 45 fitting on the block and 90 on the rad the lower "pressure" line is 43 inches long - based on Tom's comment I cut it at 45 inches - it can be shorter - the real problem is what do you do with any excess hose. The upper return line is 56 inches long with two Earls 90s -it also is a little long. Routing is fine but I have not re-installed the headers to determine where I need to put the heat wrap.

There is not really a lot of routing options to get by the "front" of the engine. The top line is routed between fans. You definitely need to pick your routing before you cut the hoses....

jeff

2000BSME

I ultimately went up and over the driver side engine accessory drive line. Right along side the alternator. It turned out to be perfect imho. You might need more than 45" though. I didn't measure, but I used nearly every bit of my 10' hose.

varkwso

It is installed at 45" and 56" plus the fittings - I have about ~22 inches left from my 10'. It even clears the headers nicely. I went the low way for the routing...

I have to hang the exhust before I can test fire it for leaks