Cobra4B

Taking off my track wheels tonight one of the lugs didn't break free... after a feew turns it came loose, but in doing so it took a piece of stud w/ it an the inside of the lug is boogered up.

I'm at a loss... I always start my lugs by hand beofore running them on w/ the drill. Any clue how this happened?

Can I just go get a tap/dye and clean it up? What size do I need for OEM wheel studs?




Thanks,
Brian

varkwso

That is only a flesh wound it will clean up with a die no problem...

Cobra4B

^ Sweet... what size!

varkwso

That I do not remember - take a good lug nut find the tap that fits then buy the corresponding die

Cobra4B

^ Bah... that's too easy... anyone know

varkwso

I am pretty sure it is metric...

ErnieN85

Yes 12X 1.5

AMERICANMUSL

Anti-seize!

Bill Dearborn

I would replace the stud. It is getting ready to fail and you were lucky to get it off without breaking it off in the lug nut. It hasn't anything to do with cross threading. After a certain number of times torquing the wheels down the stud threads start to fatigue and stretch. You get one last time tightening them and the lug nut seizes to the stud as the threads stretch and no longer quite match the threads in the lug nut. I just had this happen a month ago but my stud broke off in the nut. Over the years I have had it happen quite few times.

Bill

Cobra4B

^ How hard is it to replace the stud? Can't I drill holes somewhere so I don't have to remove the hub assembly?

Any tools to buy that will make pressing it in easy?

Thanks,
Brian

wallyman424

you can drill holes in the back of the dust shield to get the studs out. i would recommend just taking it apart. it'll be much easier to work with.

to press it in, just get the harbor freight balljoint tool, and get creative with spacers (i used a pipewrench). removing the spindle and hub isnt too hard. the annoying part is finding a socket big enough for the axle nut.

BQuicksilver

It's not that tough to just remove the assembly Brian. Something like 8-10 bolts. The only tough one is the lower ball joint.

I used a socket + vise to push the stud out.

ScaryFast

Replacing studs is a snap - thread a lug nut on several threads then hammer the old one out. I have a C4 so no dust shields, but it sounds like all you need to do is expose the back of the nut. If you're tracking your car you ought to ditch the dust shields, anyway.

Stick the new one in and either press it in with a big-a$$ C-clamp and a 1/2" drive deep well socket, or simply stick the new stud through the hub, put a few washers over the front, and thread a lug nut on until the stud bottoms out. I've done it a million times that way at the track when I don't have many tools or much time.

And again, since you're tracking your car I'd get some hardened studs. Longer, too, if you're OK with how they look. You can get a set of ARP studs at any performance shop or online at Summit.

AU N EGL

ARP studs and hardened lug nuts

varkwso

And you can go ahead and do those bushings while you are in there...

Cobra4B

I think for now I'm just going to go get some spare oem wheel studs and replace the one.

I have a bad habbit of overdoing things... one boogered up stud will turn into all new studs, new lugs, poly bushings, and twin tubros.

DoingOK

wire brush studs.....very light coat of anti-sieze (LPS 1® Premium greaseless lubricant preferred).

Nix the twin turbos.

ScaryFast

At least get hardened studs. Replace them as they break. There's no reason not to. The cost difference is negligible, but you'll probably have to call around and find some.

Cobra4B

^ I'm going to see if the local speed shop has them... if not I'll order from summit.

2000BSME

don't we all sometimes!? How many $1 problems have had $100 solutions in my vette ownership years I'll never admit.