Opinions on my C5Z06 alignment for evo school
#1
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Opinions on my C5Z06 alignment for evo school
C5 racers, I'd love some feedback on the alignment I just had done on my Z06.
Front
I'm doing two days of Evo school (Phase II and challenge) this weekend and I had my local racing shop do the above. It differs a bit from the factory Z06 specs (which they had as a reference). How does this look? Will this be street drivable as well (tire wear, bump steer) if I put about 5k per year on her.
Thanks, I'm a long term drag racer trying to build skill and expertise with corners...
Front
- Caster [L,R]: 6.3* , 6.2*
- Camber: -1.6*, -1.6*
- Toe: 0", 0"
- Camber: -0.8*, -0.7*
- Toe: 1/32", 1/8"
- Thrust angle: -0.1*
I'm doing two days of Evo school (Phase II and challenge) this weekend and I had my local racing shop do the above. It differs a bit from the factory Z06 specs (which they had as a reference). How does this look? Will this be street drivable as well (tire wear, bump steer) if I put about 5k per year on her.
Thanks, I'm a long term drag racer trying to build skill and expertise with corners...
#2
Melting Slicks
That is not a real aggressive alignment, the street wear will be fine.
If you are using your street tires at the school and on autocross courses, you will find your outside tire wear will be higher than on the inside with those settings.
I have -2 degrees of camber in the front, and -1.5 in the back and have worn out a set of street tires in about 20,000 miles, with more wear on the inside, and these tires were only used on the street.
If I was using the same tires on the track the wear would have been pretty even, so I am guessing that if you autocross a lot you will find you have a bit more wear on the outside. In either case it won't be bad, I would just try it and enjoy.....
The thing that wears the tires a lot more on the inside is toe out.
Now that you have the front set to zero toe I would highly recommend that you mark the tie rods so that you can reset the toe quickly.
I marked mine at zero and run a half a turn on each rod of toe in for the street, and a half a turn of toe out (one full turn from the street setting) on the track to help turn in. That way my street setting has some toe in to help with tire wear and keep it from tramlining on the street...
If you are using your street tires at the school and on autocross courses, you will find your outside tire wear will be higher than on the inside with those settings.
I have -2 degrees of camber in the front, and -1.5 in the back and have worn out a set of street tires in about 20,000 miles, with more wear on the inside, and these tires were only used on the street.
If I was using the same tires on the track the wear would have been pretty even, so I am guessing that if you autocross a lot you will find you have a bit more wear on the outside. In either case it won't be bad, I would just try it and enjoy.....
The thing that wears the tires a lot more on the inside is toe out.
Now that you have the front set to zero toe I would highly recommend that you mark the tie rods so that you can reset the toe quickly.
I marked mine at zero and run a half a turn on each rod of toe in for the street, and a half a turn of toe out (one full turn from the street setting) on the track to help turn in. That way my street setting has some toe in to help with tire wear and keep it from tramlining on the street...
#3
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Great feedback, many thanks for the thoughts and great tip on the toe setting changes I'll mark em up.
I'm running Nitto 555R2s--softer than street compound (I believe treadwear index is 100), but by no means sticky slicks.
Other thoughts welcome and appreciated.
I'm running Nitto 555R2s--softer than street compound (I believe treadwear index is 100), but by no means sticky slicks.
Other thoughts welcome and appreciated.