sefa01

I just got Toyo R888s that I'll be using on the track. Toyo recommends Camber of -2.5 to -5.0 degrees and as much caster as possible. My plan is to have this alignment done with the R888s on and then put my stock GSD3s back on for daily driving. The only downside I can see is excessive wear on the GSD3s.

Does anybody see any other downside or problem?

While this isn't for my C6Z, there isn't a similar sub-forum for my CTS-V. Besides, I think this is a general rule that applies to any car used on the track and on the street.

95jersey

You will definately experience more wear on the street. So you have to decide what you do more with the car...streeet or track? You don't need -2.5 to -5.0 for those tires to work well. That is BS.

Ditch the stock goodyears, they won't last under these conditions. I ran Kumho MX's on the street with aggressive allignment and they were MUCH less sensative to allignment than the goodyears. They are a harder tire.

davidfarmer

We ran -2.2 front and -1.5 rear on our Z, and I think it was a good balance. Ultimately, the tires chorded on the inside 1/3 of the tires (front and rear). You really need to consider how much you will use the car on track vs street, and find a comprimise that matches your actual needs.

I would expect the CTS, as heavy as it is, to have considerable more tire loading on the outside edge of the tires on track. Assuming you use the car on street MORE than on track (we don't), then around -1.75 front and -1.3 rear should give you decent wear and grip at the track, and only cause minimal inside wear on the street.

One final note, doing this will likely cause excessive NOISE on your street tires long before you see any appreciable wear. Performance tires just get noisy, and running them with extra camber can amplify that quickly.

VetteDrmr

You will see more wear on your street tires, probably on the inside edges. If you keep an eye on this you can mitigate the problem to some extent by flipping the tires when the edges get down to about half the depth of the rest of the tread on the tire.

The other thing you'll see is the car "hunting" more on the street. With more response from the steering/handling department comes less stability. You'll have to figure out your particular balance between the two if you're going to live with one alignment.

Mine is a compromise. I have my camber set to about -1.0 degrees front and -0.7 degrees rear. This seems to be working fairly well for me, and I just got my front tires flipped, after about 20,000 miles.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

Aardwolf

The tramlining on the street can be dangerous. I leave the track alignment on mine and I have to always keep a good handle on the car. Also if you run more then -.5 in the rear you will loose straight line bite. I have been leaving the rear at -.5 on mine to maintain good off the line accelerating without wheel spin. I have not found odd wear on the street but I don't drive it all that much on the street. The wear on the track seems to even the tires out.

trumper Z06

[QUOTE=davidfarmer;1561491436]

I would expect the CTS, as heavy as it is, to have considerable more tire loading on the outside edge of the tires on track. Assuming you use the car on street MORE than on track (we don't), then around -1.75 front and -1.3 rear should give you decent wear and grip at the track, and only cause minimal inside wear on the street.

This is a pretty good alignment for a combination street/track car. My alignment is just a bit more aggressive and this has worked well for both C-5 and C-6 Z06's.

If you are running dot "R" tires on the track... try Kuhmo V710's.
With the Kuhmo's... being rounded on the outside edges, they don't need as much negitive camber as some of the other dot "R" tire brands.

Cobra4B

^ Yep... I run V710s on track now and am running -1.5 up front and -.9 in the rear and have VB&P polys.

Your street tires will wear out on the insides faster but like others have said you can flip them

The car handles awesome w/ the agressive allignment and I still get great mileage on my street tires.

sefa01

Thanks for all your input. Gives me a lot to think about. Funny thing is that all the suggestions here call for more negative camber on the front, while stock alignment calls for more on the rear (range -0.6 to -1.4) than the front (0.0 to -1.0).

davidfarmer

The more aggressive rear camber is like the Europeans do it (BMW, Porsche). This keeps poor drivers from losing the rear end in the corners, and also makes the cars push like pigs (inherantly safer than oversteering).

yakisoba

I'm beginning to see wear on the outside edges of my back track tires. I'm also driving faster than I have before; spending more time at higher slip angles. Does that mean I need more negative camber in the back?

vms4evr

I'm running -2.0 front and -1.4 rear. A hair of toe out front and 1/8" toe in rear.

I run FS WO tires on the street and those things wear like iron. After 10K miles you can hardly tell. At 15K I'm going to flip them across the rims and re-balance. The nice thing about the FS WO is they don't tramline like crazy and you don't fight the car to go straight. They're also dirt cheap and make a decent rain tire on track.

J.R.

2.0 front
1.0 rear
with Kuhmo MX's (on street) and Toyo's (track) I have had very good results on both street and track. This is for a car driven about 4,000 miles (street) a year. I figure 3-4 years on tires. 4 years is usually max recommended life if you use them for high speed events.

2.5 - 5.0 deg negative is completely wrong.
I only run 3.0 neg front on my race car.

Diesel68

I can certainly agree about the Firestone Wide Ovals. I am at 20k of street only use and they are wearing evenly with -1.5 front and -1.0 rear. They have plenty of tread left also. I run toe-in front though to minimize inside front tire wear and for better straightline tracking. With the amount of camber you are running, are you noticing more inside wear on the rear tires? I had a tad more than a degree on my C4 and I was getting slightly more inside wear, but it was on a very soft low mile tire. Thanks.

racer02

In my experience when using reasonable camber (2.5 degrees or less) toe affects tire wear alot more than the camber itself, and any significant toe in/out in addition to lots of neg camber really kills the inner edge of a tire.

I have run -2.0 with 0-1/16 toe on lots of cars and always wore out the outer edges of the tire first if attending a DE every 2 months or so.

In my C5 Z I had -2.2F and 1/16 toe out and it wore out the inner and outer edges of the supercars well before the center was done with 8k miles of street use and 4 track days.