Cobra4B

In 4 years I'd had zero issues w/ my wheel studs and/or lugs. Then, after the Father's Day Mazdadrivers event at VIR Grand I had 3 wheel studs who's time was up... the threads were distorted when removing the lugs. So, I had ARP hardened studs put in. They were not cross threaded or over-torqued, they'd just been used too many times.

At VIR last weekend I came in the pits hot to do a rotor change from a cracked rotor. Some of the lugs were hard to get off, and one was a bitch to get back on. I'm assuming because the hot lug nut and/or stud had expanded. Again... none of them were crossed.

The Watts brothers told me they run oem studs/lugs but their CCW race wheels have steel inserts to prevent tiny aluminum shavings from getting on the studs.

My buddy Rich (DoingOK) is an ex. Navy Nuke and said he always uses a small dab of anti-seize to prevent any issues. Do any of the rest of you knowledgable people do this?

wallyman424

when i put the ARP studs in, lugs were a BITCH to get on and off. I used a DAB of synthetic grease on each one once or twice, and now its perfect. they dont catch, and the threads of the nuts dont get torn up.

Cobra4B

Thanks Wally... do you put a dab on every time? Or just once in awhile?

wallyman424

just like twice when i first had them on. they are fine now, no need for it anymore.

XPC5R

Anti seize here, never have any issues, hot or cold. Have not sheared a stud now for a several years, and the threads on these studs (appear to be ARP style long race studs from LG) are as good as new after 4 years.

If your brakes dust heavy, it has a tendency to cling to the anti seize. I re-apply it maybe twice a year.

Cobra4B

Ok... stupid question... how do you apply it? What's the best/proper method?

Should I wipe it on the threads, then run a lug nut on/off a few times? Then leave it alone?

Or should I put a dab on when re-mounting the wheels/tires?

Aardwolf

There was a big thread on this in C4 tech, here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...nti+lug+torque

I use a small amount of nvr-seize on mine. Synthetic grease would be fine to. Just use a very small amount. Anything on the thread affects the torque as you can see in the thread above. A change of 50% in the torque is huge!

I use the nvr-seize for galling and mainly for rust protection. I have never had a problem with using it. The stock lug studs are not worn or rusty. I did just change a wheel bearing so there are new lugs on that.

I just swipe a smear (not a clump) on the stud the whole length of it. If you swipe a little on and run the nut on you will see that it will not spread down the stud very far. That is why I swipe the brush across the whole length of the stud. I also use this between the rotor mounting surfaces, to the wheel and to the rotor. The rotor can rust on enough that you can have to pound it off.

0Randy@DRM

Put a little spot on with the brush. Then rub it around with your fingers. A couple times a year is all you will ever need.

Randy

Cobra4B

OK... so do you guys still use 100 ft/lbs even w/ a dab of anti-seize?

Cobra4B

Thanks Randy... see above... still use 100?

XPC5R

Best to buy the large bottle instead of the tube. The screw cap has a brush built in which makes it easy to apply. The bottle also stores easier without making a mess.

Cobra4B

^ I've got two of those

Shrek

ARP's and anti-seize here!

Akcelr8 N VA

Just because the studs look good doesn't mean they haven't fatigued especially when removing wheels as frequently as we do at the track. I found out the hard way when I sheared all five studs (stock) on the left rear going into the snake at VIR....fun ride!!!!! I'm now using ARP longs. By the way, how frequently do you all replace your ARP studs?

Cobra4B

^ Dunno... just got them. I'm going to use some anti-seize when I put my street tires back on.

davidfarmer

absolutely use anti-seize every 4th or 5th use! Grease will burn off when the brakes/wheels get hot.

MAC95 6SPD

antiseize, brush it on the threads, just enough they look wet with it.. 100 ft lbs and try to avoid torqe or retorqe when hot.

MAC

larryfs

I have 4 packages of ARP studs that I want to sell. $10 each plus $3 shipping. I just never got around to installing them, and I never will.

Also, I believe (not sure) the GMPP long studs are not rust resistant, like the OEM studs. That's why ARP or OEM are the way to go.

CF6873

PM sent

aggie_corvette

Anti-sieze, ARP (fronts), and still use 100 ft/lbs.

Also when i had the oem brakes I used anti-sieze on the slider pins.