Tire Pressure Advice
#1
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Tire Pressure Advice
I run 315/35/17 at all 4 corners. I start with cold pressures of 26 lbs front and 24 lbs rear. Hot pressures go to about 35 and 34 depending on how hard I am pushing and how much they may drop while getting back to the garage. Here is a picture of one of my Kumho 710 rear tires after two days at the Glen. From the wear pattern it looks like I may still need to drop a couple of pounds pressure in the rear. Comments....
Bill
Bill
#3
The groove in the middle usually means pressure is too low in a kumho. The stiff sidewalls keep the outer edges in contact, but not enough air pressure to maintain the shape of the contact patch under load.
#4
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Interesting comments as I thought it was wearing in the center more than the outside since the center looks like the rubber is slightly overheated (its rippled). Before I had this happen a lot of people had been telling me I was running too high of a hot pressure and needed to drop my cold pressures down to 24/22 so the hot pressures were in the low 30s. I was a little nervous about that low of a pressure so these comments make me feel a little better about not dropping that low.
The front tires wore evenly across the tread but I was doing some throttle steering with the rears and it seemed more sensitive than other track days.
Bill
The front tires wore evenly across the tread but I was doing some throttle steering with the rears and it seemed more sensitive than other track days.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 06-04-2008 at 03:56 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
What's your camber settings? Suspension mods? Shock settings? How is the car handling?
Generally speaking, as long as you keep the V710s under 40 psi, you're fine.
My starting pressures (when I ran those tires) were quite low:
LF:22; RF:19; LR:15; RR:14 for a clockwise track (like Road Atlanta).
The only way to know for sure is to buy a cheap pyrometer and check your temps immediately after a hot lap. If they are too hot in the middle, lower the pressure. If it's too cold in the middle, add some. If it's hot on the outside part of the tire, you probably don't have enough camber, etc, etc, etc....
Generally speaking, as long as you keep the V710s under 40 psi, you're fine.
My starting pressures (when I ran those tires) were quite low:
LF:22; RF:19; LR:15; RR:14 for a clockwise track (like Road Atlanta).
The only way to know for sure is to buy a cheap pyrometer and check your temps immediately after a hot lap. If they are too hot in the middle, lower the pressure. If it's too cold in the middle, add some. If it's hot on the outside part of the tire, you probably don't have enough camber, etc, etc, etc....
#6
Team Owner
What's your camber settings? Suspension mods? Shock settings? How is the car handling?
Generally speaking, as long as you keep the V710s under 40 psi, you're fine.
My starting pressures (when I ran those tires) were quite low:
LF:22; RF:19; LR:15; RR:14 for a clockwise track (like Road Atlanta).
The only way to know for sure is to buy a cheap pyrometer and check your temps immediately after a hot lap. If they are too hot in the middle, lower the pressure. If it's too cold in the middle, add some. If it's hot on the outside part of the tire, you probably don't have enough camber, etc, etc, etc....
Generally speaking, as long as you keep the V710s under 40 psi, you're fine.
My starting pressures (when I ran those tires) were quite low:
LF:22; RF:19; LR:15; RR:14 for a clockwise track (like Road Atlanta).
The only way to know for sure is to buy a cheap pyrometer and check your temps immediately after a hot lap. If they are too hot in the middle, lower the pressure. If it's too cold in the middle, add some. If it's hot on the outside part of the tire, you probably don't have enough camber, etc, etc, etc....
#7
Melting Slicks
Low 30s...upper 20s. I really didn't care as long as the pyromter showed a nice even temp spread and the car handled well. Those V710s have such a wide performance temp and pressure range, it's hard to screw them up.
#8
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all of this depends on alignment and driving style. but your pics look pretty straight forward.
#9
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I have the pyrometer but it is hard to use if you don't have somebody to go over the pit wall and check them for you after coming into the pits. By the time I get out of the car and pull out the pyrometer the temps have changed quite a bit.
My front alignment is -1.3 and the rear is -.8 which is the most I can get. I have been running the 710s for several years and have purchased a few from Chris and this is the first time I have seen uneven tire wear on the rear tires.
Bill
My front alignment is -1.3 and the rear is -.8 which is the most I can get. I have been running the 710s for several years and have purchased a few from Chris and this is the first time I have seen uneven tire wear on the rear tires.
Bill
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#11
Safety Car
Best bet is to get a buddy [with a probe pyro] to measure your temps for you in the hot pits.
As an example, I used to jump out of the car back in my paddock spot after a session and scramble to measure temps. My front temps always looked fairly even across the tire -- but I didn't have near enough negative camber, the outside shoulder was wearing much more than the rest of the tire...
#12
Melting Slicks
Correct. The only way to know for sure is with F1 style (i.e. real time) sensors, but the more practical solution is to use a buddy to get those temps as soon as come off a hot lap...with no cool down. It's not perfect, but better than waiting...
#13
Yep, cool down laps mess things up. One of the reasons is that the outer readings are closer to the sidewall which has thicker rubber and retains the heat a little longer. The center will cool faster. As said,
camber affects the readings too.
As a doulbecheck, I take the 2 outer temps and average them, then compare that to the center.
If you're by yourself, find a place in the paddock just outside the hot pit exit, jump out and take the readings. You should be able to exit the car, pull off your helmit and start taking readings in 45 seconds. This is what you have to do when you go to the track by yourself.
#14
Melting Slicks
with that method, you'll be in the paddock changing rotors next.