spazegun2213

Alright guys,
So I'm finally gearing up to replace the head gaskets on the race car and I figure i may as well throw in some extra bits while I'm at it. I was thinking double valve springs, since I would love to rev the motor to 7k+, Maybe a port and polish? Not that I need the power, but While i have the heads off why not. Although will a P&P do much? Head studs, to replace the factory bolts, and OEM head gaskets.

Other than that, anything else i should add to the list? I do really want a wicked cam, but i need to keep the power within 12-15 hp of where i am now.

Falcon

Ross, I was told if you put in better valve springs you may want to put in better pushrods. I'm having Patriot Performance Xtreme Dual valve springs installed and they're installing hardened pushrods.

Kanmer

Push rods are a must. Especially if you want to run the revs that high.

Bob

wallyman424

definitely go for the upgraded pushrods, and remember that with the stiffer components it becomes way more important to make sure your car is at operating temp before beating on it.

RAFTRACER

Have the cylinder heads milled some......extra compression is power and torque across the board...ie: you wont be robbing Peter to pay Paul...

I see some ST2 cars having to add wieght.........

wallyman424

not me!!! my car just keeps getting weaker and weaker.

i pull out like 10 pounds after every race.

Kanmer

Is that why I see parts come flying out of your car during the race?

Bob

0Randy@DRM

7000+ rpm means a lot of stress on the rod bolts also. Fastest way of replacing a block is to have a worn out rod bolt fail. Cheap, but pain to do install, is worth the extra insurance.

Randy

wallyman424

ahhh, i see someone remembers the exhaust falling off the bottom of my car in the uphill esses incident.

that was a good 50 lbs lost instantly!

spazegun2213

hmmmmm... sounds like a lot more time involved really.

I nearly ran over that junk when it happened!

wallyman424

slowing down the competition!!! added benefit!!!

Nihilation

Not as much as replacing your engine when it fails.

spazegun2213

this is true, but that is a LOT of work

ghoffman

You could do a 3 angle valve job, and since you like to rev, some titanium valves and retainers. The lighter the mass, the higher the rev ceiling for a given valve spring rate. For sure, do Danny's suggestion of milling the head, if for no other reason to make sure it is flat and true.

96CollectorSport

Only use Ti for the intake valves, Ti exhaust valves get brittle over time because they can't take the heat. GM uses Ti intake valves and sodium filled exhaust valves in the LS7 for a reason. Typically the only ones who use Ti exhaust valves are racing engines and they throw the valves away after 500 miles. (I've talked with the owner of Victory Valves about them) Really the stock LS6 valves are a good deal for the $$$ but if you are switching to a dual valve spring make sure that your valves can handle the extra spring pressure I've seen LS6 valves get overloaded and break.

IMHO if your sticking with stock valves get some PSI (Performance Springs Inc.) 1511 single behives they are relativly cheap and they are great springs (do a search on LS1 tech), if you really want to go to a dual spring then I would install solid stainless steal valves for extra insurance.

Or you could be really smart and just give Katech a call I believe they have some lightweight hollow valves that are stronger than stock. They have a little experiance testing racing engines.

spazegun2213

I'm not replacing the valves, as I think the stockers will be just fine. I'm just concerned about any float at 7k rpm. I'm thinking about the Comp 918 springs, using the stock retainers, and throwing in some comp push rods as well. A 3 angle would be nice, but how much is it work power wise?

96CollectorSport

If you are looking at single springs you can't beat the PSI 1151's, PSI used to make the Comp 918 spring and then they decided to save a little and had them made elsewhere and then they had spring failures (which they ended up paying out for - very stand up of them) anyway if you are looking at singles you can't beat the PSI's. Here is a link to CV Products who sell's the springs.
http://www.cvproducts.com/cv/product...172&brandID=61
Some Ti retainers would be a good idea if you want to spin that high, I know they are pricey but with higher rev's every gram matters.
I couldn't really tell you what the valve job would give you power wise, I guess it depends on if you get the heads ported a bit.

spazegun2213

if head work would help the power band at 6K+ (ie as it starts to decline) Then its worth it. Again, I'm not looking for serious gains in peak HP, but I'd love to have a flatter curve with more area under it!

spazegun2213

SO guys, what do you think about head work? Should i have any done while the heads are off? or say meh and just replace the springs and pushrods?

96CollectorSport

Best advice I can give you is to look around at ls1tech.com in the dyno results page. See if you can find head only threads and see what the curves look like. If you can find 3 or 4 that have the same results then you have a pretty good idea of what you are going to get.
The question is difficult to answer because most guys are looking for all the power they can out of a set of heads (or a cam) so to only gain 5 or 10 hp from a head swap is not the norm. Also your going to find that most guys on ls1tech will do head and cam so finding head only graphs will be tough.
If it were my $$$ I would call Katech and ask them, they also helped develop some of the parts for GM so they may have a set-up that will work for you.