Adis

I've just started to get into road racing and though I'd ask some of the experienced forum members for advice. My local track has open track times irregularly, and it's just strap on your harness/helmet and go. Usually there is nobody, or very few people there, so I don't have the opportunity to ask for pointers from any of the locals. As a complete novice, I need help with all aspects of my driving, and don't want to get into bad habits early. I've included the link to a video of a few laps of my first session and a drawing of the track. I just picked the lines that felt right for the level of driving that I am comfortable with, but would certainly welcome any criticism. I feel fairly comfortable with my vehicle, or at least comfortable enough to start experimenting with my limits (but I still keep the stability control on!) I think the track is short and compact (although I have no frame of reference) the website says it's a 2.4 km F3 track designed for 180kph (108mph) top speed and it seems like a good place to learn and build confidence. For 4/5 of the track I am in 3rd (including the straights,) while going into turn 3 (sharp 180) i drop into 2nd, through turn 6 (another sharp 180 going into the back straight).

I guess the most pressing question I have is how to attack turns that require a lot of braking in the approach (high-g). I'm going on the assumption that coasting is bad (inefficient), and that braking in the actual turn is also bad (gives up control) so what I try to do is manipulate the relevant forces such that going into the turn I am (1.) not on the brakes and (2.) I am in a state where I can smoothly begin acceleration out of the turn at the earliest time. I don't know what this state is called, but it's sort of an equilibrium between coasting and acceleration, like just being right on top of the RPM's without increasing forward power (I think Jim Helm called this a "steady state.") This way I let the tires guide me around the corner (apex?) at the greatest possible speed using the forward force left over after braking, but I can instantly begin acceleration once the track begins to open up out of the turn. Is this the right approach? If so, how do I actually brake? I've read a lot of the forum posts and try to employ the "wide open throttle, stomp on brakes, make turn" approach, but perhaps I am not familiar with my car's limits or confident enough to take the car at WOT as far as I can go while reducing the "stomp" distance to the shortest possible distance. I suppose this will just come with time. You can see in the video that in both turns coming out of WOT acceleration, I brake at 100 meters before the turn, and (try to) let up off the brakes by 50 meters. I'm sure this is too timid, but I am scared to push it any farther (note my "learning experince" in turn 1!). By "stomp" does that mean "as quickly and safely as possible employ as much of the car's braking power as possible?" Then, should I be easing off the brakes just as I'm entering the turn, or just stop braking suddenly? Is this where heel/toe technique would come in handy to keep my RPM high enough?

Anyway, I've got tons of questions, mostly stemming from my excitement about being on a track for the first time (same feeling as the first time I caught a real wave, perma-grin) so I'll thank any advice or pointers to good links in advance. I'll add that until I bought my Corvette and began to read the awesome content on Corvetteforum.com, I never would have dreamed of actually going out on a race track. Even though I was the only one there, I still feel as cool as Paul Newman.

http://www.youtube.com/v/l74igwe_heY&hl=en&fs=1

beerkat

When I started doing road courses I had a instructor with me. He help me learned the correct line. But besides finding you an instructor seat time, seat time, and more seat time is what going to help you the most.

Bill Hetzel

First, quit using the word "stomp"
Second, what Beerkat said, get an instructor. Money spent to hire a good instructor will shorten your learning curve by a huge amount, much more than seat time. Especially if you're learning incorrect practices running by yourself. Having a personal instructor in every session will get you there faster than doing an HPDE with an instructor in one session or different instructors.

Stomp may work in autocrosses but what you're really describing is threshold braking. This is a very aggressive pedal application that's linerar up to the point of lockup (or when the ABS kicks in). If you stomp on the pedal, you will slam the front end down and may upset the the handling. This varys a bunch depending on the initial bite character of the brake pads. Threshold braking takes a little while to learn and a good instructor can tell if you're doing it or stomping.

Easing off the brakes is better because the front end will come up slower and the transition from coming off the brakes and initial turn in will be smoother. You should be starting the turn in immeadiately after you come off the brakes. Turning in with the brakes still applied (but coming off the pedal) is trailbraking and really shouldn't be tried until you get some seat time.

The heel and toe technique is not handy, it's manditory. But the best place to learn it is on the street, not at the track when you're new.
Practice on a safe, uncrowded road. Use the 5-4 downshift to start, it's much easier. Everywhere you drive your car always bilp the motor on every downshift even if you're not braking. Once you're comfortable with a 5-4 downshift, work on the 4-3 then the 3-2. Don't worry about doing it down to first. If you can't feel the downshift, if it doesn't jerk the car at all, you have it right.
The reasons to do it are: it's easier on the trans and motor and if you don't H&T and get the motor spun up, you have a good chance of locking up the rear tires as they try to match the gear and motor speed and off the track you go.

Have Fun

Aardwolf

The book "Going Faster" can be very helpful. Also watch others video and compare to yours. I always study mine and plan out how to improve.

Wayne O

You getting onto a track and 'doing it' is the most important thing. I strongly suggest you find a HPDE course or some other track venue that offers qualified classroom and on-track instruction. Expert instruction is invaluable then tracking your car regularly helps you apply and refine the skills and techniques you learn...it's the repetition and consistent seat time that helps ingrain what you learned...practice...practice.

I'm no expert...far from it but some basics that come to mind: safety is primary, make sure your car is in safe operating condition...tires, tire pressures, brakes, fluids, etc., remove all loose items from your car, seat belts, have a quality Snell SA 2005 rated helmet, have proper seat/steering wheel position. You want to be smooth going around the track, avoid 'sawing' the steering wheel, don't speed shift (be smooth and balanced), you want to make smooth transitions between braking and accelerating, always apply the brake in a straight line...turning and braking at the same at speed is a recipe to spin-out. If you're not shifting keep both hands on the steering wheel.

You want to hit your lines. When approaching a curve roll off the throttle, down shift carefully to avoid upsetting the car, at the entry point of the curve you're off the brake, steering towards the apex and you begin to roll-into the accelerator, clip the apex of the curve continuing to accelerate unwinding the steering wheel as you push out to the exit point.

When going through a curve and you're on the edge of drifting or spinning out, people have a tendency to brake (disaster) or just to lift. You want to be rolling-into the accelerator through the curve...this shifts the weight of the car to the rear wheels and helps you keep traction.

However, if you're accelerating out of a curve and say the car starts pushing (understeer) you add traction by rolling off the accelerator...this transfers the load from the rear tires to the front tires. There's a lot to learn...loading the car for traction, contact patches, slip angles, early or late apexing, shifting and clutching techniques, etc., etc. Then you have to learn to apply what you learned.

Make the effort to get some professional instruction at a track where they have Course Officials, tech inspections, full safety crews, emergency services, etc. Have fun and be safe!

Adis

OK, thanks for the info guys. Yes, safety first. Gary Hoffman and Hardbar hooked me up (or should I say 'strapped me in') with personal safety equipment. My particular challenge is that when I said there was nobody at the track, I mean there is literally nobody there. I give my money to the girl in the office, and give my ticket to the guy who opens the gate to the track, and that's it - no one else present. And this is the only venue available short of traveling 300 miles to Shanghai. I know there are several guys in town who have experience and are willing to sit with me, but since the open track times aren't scheduled, it is difficult to work out schedules. Here is what I'll do for starters:

- find an instructor;
- get as much seat time as possible, preferrably with above instructor;
- do my homework, including buying "Going Faster," filming my track sessions, and watching other drivers;
- stop st----ng, by learning to (modulate?) my braking correctly: aggressive going in, easing off going out, keeping in mind the attitude of the vehicle and its affect on traction;
- learn heel/toe technique
- practice, practice, practice

I have a question regarding h&t techninque. In my street driving I employ a technique that I think is an incorrect application of h&t. What I do is, as I am approaching a slow down, I blip the motor to a point above where the RPM would match for a smooth downshift. I then move my foot to the brake and shift as the RPM are falling. This is all done fairly quickly. Is this a habit that I should get out of? I've watched video of other drivers and they seem to actually have their foot on both pedals at the same time, but I cannot seem to do this; the pedals are too far apart and at different heights. My foot ends up in a very uncomfortable contortion that does not allow me to properly manipulate either pedal. Learning to blip the motor with the inside heel of my foot, while applying significant pressure on the brake pedal with the toes is incredibly difficult to do! Is this something that I'm just going to have to train to do, or am I doing it incorrectly?

Also, quick question on tire pressures. I head to the track with my stock GY EMT's cold at 28psi. By the time I get there they are 31-32. After a 20-minute session (85-90 degree weather) they are up to 37-36. Should I be stopping mid-session to release pressure? If so, what should I drop to, 33?

Again thanks for all the information, I definitely appreciate the mentorship. I will apply as much as I can and post what I learn.

63Corvette

Hi Mark, and Welcome!

My advice is , 1st to change NOTHING but brake pads and fluid. Use the best of both that you can afford (Castrol SRF fluid and PFC-01 pads are recommended). If you want, use more aggressive suspension alignment (2.5 degrees negative in front and 1.5 degrees negative in the rear). After that, seat time, seat time and more seat time! you will get faster. Go into a turn slowly, and exit as fast as possible. Don't attempt to accelerate until you are beginning to unwind the wheel. You will get faster as you drive more, accumulate more seat time, and relax at the controls. ENJOY yourself!!!

Bill Hetzel

OK, you're off to a good start. Working with Gary is smart, he knows what he's doing.
There's also a very good DVD for new drivers by David Ray, go to www.hookedondriving.com .

On your H&T, you're correct, the way you are doing it is not the best.
The blip is done while you're on the brakes, not before. And it's not done with the inside of your heel.
With you're foot on the gas in the normal position (vertical), rotate the top of your foot with your ankle so that the ball of your foot just under your big toe is on the right side of the brake pedal. The brake is applied using only this one inch of surface. The blip is done with the ball of your foot just under the little toe. To do the blip, rotate your foot with your ankle while keeping constant pressure on the brake pedal. You will notice while doing this that your knee is moving towards the shifter.
The technique of using a small portion of your foot and the 1/2 inch on the right side of the brake pedal will take a while to get used to. This is what you're seeing in the videos.
I would suggest to get the feel of this, practice in your driveway, engine on to be able to use the vacuum for the brakes. Don't shift at all but hit the brake and blip the gas then hit the clutch.
When you get on the street, start appling the brakes (by rotating the top of your foot, not lifting your foot over to the brake pedal) and do tha downshift while the brakes are on. Again, somepalce safe with no traffic.
Pedal height: If you're braking hard, the gas & brake should be about even. This doesn't happen that much on the street because you don't brake that hard there. On the track the pedal height will vary, seems to happen with our cars.
If you're still not happy with the distance between the pedals, do a search here for aftermarket pedals. Some guys use them. I have no problem doing H&T in any C4,5,6 with the stock setup.

Getting an instructor: If you can swing it, hire a pro. At HPDE's you may only get an instructor for one session and then switch to another. And some of those instructors may be a little lacking. One guy here had instructors telling him that it was impossible to H&T in a Vette. You may get a good instructor at a HPDE but it's a coin toss.
Google NASA and SCCA in your area. The private instructors usually advertise in their regional magazines. Email the NASA/SCCA guys and ask them if they know anyone. A good instructor will have track maps for your debrief after every session and possibily use an intercom (I do)
I don't have an idea what they are charging in your area but, I charge $150 a day for the local track.