DBA 4000 - Just say no ...
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
DBA 4000 - Just say no ...
Alright - 5 HPDE weekends and 13K miles on the OEM Z51 rotors, not the slightest crack. Two (I mean 2) HPDE weekends on DBA 4000s and there are lots of microscopics crakcs on them (with XP10 pads). So I called TireRack. They asked for pics. I took and forwarded them. Got a call back tonight (I have to say TireRack is awesome in customer service) and they informed me that the manufacturer would not replace them becaue the cracks were a result of "overheated" rotors and not a manufacturer's defect When I came off the track, in the hot pit out, I checked the color paint strips and the "red" one was not white.
I do not believe I was driving over 75% especially at Road America as I did not know the track and I had the R6's slip on the rim so high speed = lots of vibration.
Bottom line, I might have one more weekend on these DBA 4000s (I am taking my used OEM rotors and pads along just in case).
I am going back to a new set of OEM rotors - cheaper and apparently better.
I do not believe I was driving over 75% especially at Road America as I did not know the track and I had the R6's slip on the rim so high speed = lots of vibration.
Bottom line, I might have one more weekend on these DBA 4000s (I am taking my used OEM rotors and pads along just in case).
I am going back to a new set of OEM rotors - cheaper and apparently better.
#2
Race Director
post the pics here
i have the dba and the xp10 pads what you have might not be anything to worry about they do get smaller cracks in them after a bit but usually nothing to worry about if they are almost newq
i have the dba and the xp10 pads what you have might not be anything to worry about they do get smaller cracks in them after a bit but usually nothing to worry about if they are almost newq
#3
Did you season the rotors by driving them on the street for a while? That seems to be the best way to make them last. We have been running the DBA 4000 on my dads c6 Z06 for about 4 months, 3k miles and 14 track days (most days dual driven) and hant had any cracking yet. On the OEM, there was minor cracking after th first event.
#4
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put the cooling ducts in-- will reduce cracking, increase rotor life
Put the Z06 cooling ducts in. A $17 mod-- the rotors need AIR to cool. I'm a HPDE instructr, with 15 years of roadracing experience-- my new 08 Z51 has the cooling ducts, running Cobalt pads. I've done 4 DE event weekends and have ZERO cracks on my stock Z51 rotors. Also have plenty of braking too (the braided steel lines and SUper Blue brake fluid helps).
Corvettes have historically had a weak point in the braking system. Coming from Porsches (FABULOUS brakes), the first thing I did was upgrade the brakes. The rotors are sufficiently sized for the weight of the car-- if you can get enough cool air blowing across them they should hold up fine.
Good luck.
(Gene Culley has the cooling ducts. Do a search on "colling ducts" and you'll find a lot of good info.
Corvettes have historically had a weak point in the braking system. Coming from Porsches (FABULOUS brakes), the first thing I did was upgrade the brakes. The rotors are sufficiently sized for the weight of the car-- if you can get enough cool air blowing across them they should hold up fine.
Good luck.
(Gene Culley has the cooling ducts. Do a search on "colling ducts" and you'll find a lot of good info.
#5
No vibration or concern here. I'm running dba rotors with Colbat pads. I've got some spider cracking, but no big deal. My oem cracked from hole to hole and when you ran your finger across them (cool of course) you could feel them.
#6
Race Director
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All indicators turned white for me on the rear rotors. I totally did not expect that. I have since learned to let off a little sooner on the braking. I have only a couple of events on the DBA's but no cracks. I am presently running NAPA all the way around. Several events and cracks in the middle of surface covering over half of surface but not to either side of bearing surface. Time to change out. I am staying with OEM type rotors.
#7
Team Owner
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I think many guys are now finding out why so many of us say stick with OEM or Raybestos rotors, C5/C6 calipers and C6 Caliper mounting brakets.
Rotors are consumable items, like brake pads.
Unless your going to a full BBK and still need to replace rotors as needed.
Going in deep into the brake zone may not be the best option for driving or learnging to drive.
Learning consistent lines, caring momentum through the corners, which is also braking a bit less and sooner, vs go deep into the brake zone every time, and punch the throttle out of the corner may be a better for equipment and lap times.
Rotors are consumable items, like brake pads.
Unless your going to a full BBK and still need to replace rotors as needed.
Going in deep into the brake zone may not be the best option for driving or learnging to drive.
Learning consistent lines, caring momentum through the corners, which is also braking a bit less and sooner, vs go deep into the brake zone every time, and punch the throttle out of the corner may be a better for equipment and lap times.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
thanks for the feedback ...
To furhter describe my 06 C6 A6 Z51 setup ...
LPE CAI
Kooks 1 7/8" headers with cats - jethot coated
Corsa Sport Quads
Tune (approx 390HP and Torque)
SS brake lines
Castrol SRF (calipers bled after every weekend)
Z06 brake ducts with LG cooling tube running right behind the rotors
Mich PS2 - for rain
Hoosier R6 - otherwise
Driving style - not very aggressive. Easy brake into corners with trail braking.
LPE CAI
Kooks 1 7/8" headers with cats - jethot coated
Corsa Sport Quads
Tune (approx 390HP and Torque)
SS brake lines
Castrol SRF (calipers bled after every weekend)
Z06 brake ducts with LG cooling tube running right behind the rotors
Mich PS2 - for rain
Hoosier R6 - otherwise
Driving style - not very aggressive. Easy brake into corners with trail braking.
#12
Le Mans Master