Swapping Track/Street Pads
10-23-2008, 12:56 AM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Swapping Track/Street Pads
So I want to use only one set of rotors but switch between track pads and street pads before events (usually 10 per year).
Right now the street pads are OEM and the track pads are Hawk HP+ (this may change in the future)
Do the rotors need to be prepped in some way before swapping, or do you just do a normal bedding per manufactures recommendation to get a proper transfer of pad material???
DH
Right now the street pads are OEM and the track pads are Hawk HP+ (this may change in the future)
Do the rotors need to be prepped in some way before swapping, or do you just do a normal bedding per manufactures recommendation to get a proper transfer of pad material???
DH
10-23-2008, 07:23 AM
#2
So I want to use only one set of rotors but switch between track pads and street pads before events (usually 10 per year).
Right now the street pads are OEM and the track pads are Hawk HP+ (this may change in the future)
Do the rotors need to be prepped in some way before swapping, or do you just do a normal bedding per manufactures recommendation to get a proper transfer of pad material???
DH
Right now the street pads are OEM and the track pads are Hawk HP+ (this may change in the future)
Do the rotors need to be prepped in some way before swapping, or do you just do a normal bedding per manufactures recommendation to get a proper transfer of pad material???
DH
1. OEM rotors used for the track will crack rather quickly due to the cross drilled holes. (Ask me how I know)
2. I would suggest the most economical aftermarket rotors are the DBA 4000 rotors you can pick up from Tire Rack and other vendors for $150 each.
3. You can buy better rotors, such as the aluminum hat/Coleman wear ring rotors from Performance FX. I bought a set of these (fronts only)and they are a very nice set-up for the money. I plan to use them in combination with DBA 4000's in the rear, since the Performance FX rotors don't have e-brake drums.
4. In terms of brake pads, I don't think you really want to use Hawk HP+ for the track. The HP+ is a pad designed for autocross and street use. They aren't more capable for the track than the stock pads. I don't think you will be happy with their wear rate, fade resistence and stopping capability when pushed on the track.
5. I have used the Hawk DTC-70 for many track events and they are a fantastic pad for the track.
6. You didn't mention brake fluid, but I also strongly recommend something like Castrol SRF, or AP 600, etc... You really need a brake fluid that won't boil when subjected to the heat of hard stops on the track.
7. I would also point to the brake lines. Goodridge or other DOT approved stainless brake lines are a very good upgrade for track use. I recently experienced a total failure of a stock front brake line that popped right out of the swagelocked fitting at Road America. Luckily, it happened at the gas station as I was testing the brake pedal and it simply popped out of the fitting due to softening of the adhesive/mechanical bond in the fitting due to the heat these see on the track.
Well, those are my thoughts on your plan for preparing your car for a safe and capable track day hot rod.
Let me know if I can help you with any other ideas.
Be safe...
Steve
10-23-2008, 09:00 AM
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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My experience differs from the first response. I have found using the rotor on the street before track use helps temper it and give me better life on the track. I say better, but it does not last forever. I cracked 5 or 6 this year but I do get better duty. I do agree that solid rotors do better than crossed drilled. I now run the DTC 70's but the HP+'s served me well until I went to dedicated wheel/tires. As far as fluid is concerned, for a one or two day event, just go to parts store and get valvoline syntec fluid. It works just as well as the ATE 200, Motul 600 and several others that I have tried the last several years. Completely bleed after 2 track days and you will be just fine. Don't forget to syphon the clutch reservoir and refill with fresh fluid each time you bleed brakes.
I, like most other newbies, started out thinking that I needed the very best products made to start my track hobby. I wasted a lot of money.....
I, like most other newbies, started out thinking that I needed the very best products made to start my track hobby. I wasted a lot of money.....
10-23-2008, 04:53 PM
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I would say trying to use the same set of rotors for both track days and street use is not the way to go. If you plan to do 10 track days a year, you should just pick up a set of rotors dedicated for the track and keep your OEM rotors for the street.
1. OEM rotors used for the track will crack rather quickly due to the cross drilled holes. (Ask me how I know)
2. I would suggest the most economical aftermarket rotors are the DBA 4000 rotors you can pick up from Tire Rack and other vendors for $150 each.
3. You can buy better rotors, such as the aluminum hat/Coleman wear ring rotors from Performance FX. I bought a set of these (fronts only)and they are a very nice set-up for the money. I plan to use them in combination with DBA 4000's in the rear, since the Performance FX rotors don't have e-brake drums.
4. In terms of brake pads, I don't think you really want to use Hawk HP+ for the track. The HP+ is a pad designed for autocross and street use. They aren't more capable for the track than the stock pads. I don't think you will be happy with their wear rate, fade resistence and stopping capability when pushed on the track.
5. I have used the Hawk DTC-70 for many track events and they are a fantastic pad for the track.
6. You didn't mention brake fluid, but I also strongly recommend something like Castrol SRF, or AP 600, etc... You really need a brake fluid that won't boil when subjected to the heat of hard stops on the track.
7. I would also point to the brake lines. Goodridge or other DOT approved stainless brake lines are a very good upgrade for track use. I recently experienced a total failure of a stock front brake line that popped right out of the swagelocked fitting at Road America. Luckily, it happened at the gas station as I was testing the brake pedal and it simply popped out of the fitting due to softening of the adhesive/mechanical bond in the fitting due to the heat these see on the track.
Well, those are my thoughts on your plan for preparing your car for a safe and capable track day hot rod.
Let me know if I can help you with any other ideas.
Be safe...
Steve
1. OEM rotors used for the track will crack rather quickly due to the cross drilled holes. (Ask me how I know)
2. I would suggest the most economical aftermarket rotors are the DBA 4000 rotors you can pick up from Tire Rack and other vendors for $150 each.
3. You can buy better rotors, such as the aluminum hat/Coleman wear ring rotors from Performance FX. I bought a set of these (fronts only)and they are a very nice set-up for the money. I plan to use them in combination with DBA 4000's in the rear, since the Performance FX rotors don't have e-brake drums.
4. In terms of brake pads, I don't think you really want to use Hawk HP+ for the track. The HP+ is a pad designed for autocross and street use. They aren't more capable for the track than the stock pads. I don't think you will be happy with their wear rate, fade resistence and stopping capability when pushed on the track.
5. I have used the Hawk DTC-70 for many track events and they are a fantastic pad for the track.
6. You didn't mention brake fluid, but I also strongly recommend something like Castrol SRF, or AP 600, etc... You really need a brake fluid that won't boil when subjected to the heat of hard stops on the track.
7. I would also point to the brake lines. Goodridge or other DOT approved stainless brake lines are a very good upgrade for track use. I recently experienced a total failure of a stock front brake line that popped right out of the swagelocked fitting at Road America. Luckily, it happened at the gas station as I was testing the brake pedal and it simply popped out of the fitting due to softening of the adhesive/mechanical bond in the fitting due to the heat these see on the track.
Well, those are my thoughts on your plan for preparing your car for a safe and capable track day hot rod.
Let me know if I can help you with any other ideas.
Be safe...
Steve
I currently have 11.5k miles and 4 track days on the stock rotors without any cracking. This might be do to using the OEM pads. I used to use the HP+ on my C5 as street and track and was good with that except for the street time squeling. I do use Super Blue and do a very good bleed before each event. I should do the SS lines .... I never heard of failure of the stock, just improved feel with the SS.
If I had the time and energy I would change rotors .... but I don't.
Looking to buy slightly used OEM rotors without track duty.
DH
10-23-2008, 05:00 PM
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
My experience differs from the first response. I have found using the rotor on the street before track use helps temper it and give me better life on the track. I say better, but it does not last forever. I cracked 5 or 6 this year but I do get better duty. I do agree that solid rotors do better than crossed drilled. I now run the DTC 70's but the HP+'s served me well until I went to dedicated wheel/tires. As far as fluid is concerned, for a one or two day event, just go to parts store and get valvoline syntec fluid. It works just as well as the ATE 200, Motul 600 and several others that I have tried the last several years. Completely bleed after 2 track days and you will be just fine. Don't forget to syphon the clutch reservoir and refill with fresh fluid each time you bleed brakes.
I, like most other newbies, started out thinking that I needed the very best products made to start my track hobby. I wasted a lot of money.....
I, like most other newbies, started out thinking that I needed the very best products made to start my track hobby. I wasted a lot of money.....
After having a heavily modded C5 I am trying to keep as stock as possible. The OEM Z06 brake setup is far superior to my C5 with 2 peice front rotors and HP+ pads.
I do have some R6 tires now
DH
10-29-2008, 09:32 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
10-29-2008, 10:00 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2004
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Well, I don't have the experience of many here, but my take after reading a LOT of posts on pads is that you can swap track to street pads on same rotors if pads are of same mfgr (same composition) ... so hawk to hawk should not present a problem.
I am running Carbotech 10/8 and now just leave them on for the limited street driving I do.
If I went to Carbotech 12/10 I will probably go to AX6 for street/autox.
If I put on a Wilwood front kit (thinking about it) ... I'll use pads of same mfgr ...
FWIW
I am running Carbotech 10/8 and now just leave them on for the limited street driving I do.
If I went to Carbotech 12/10 I will probably go to AX6 for street/autox.
If I put on a Wilwood front kit (thinking about it) ... I'll use pads of same mfgr ...
FWIW
