uneven rotor wear
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
uneven rotor wear
Hey guys,
I installed a second set of some very high end rotors 2months ago and noticed the other night that these rotors are pretty much shot. I have NOT done any tracking with these rotors as of yet. The rotors went on the car, made a trip to FL for a wkd and have since only seen daily driving conditions to and from work.
I have contacted the folks that I purchased the rotors from and rather not say who or which brand the rotors are until they get back to me.
However, I am posting to see what others think of my situation. So now to the condition of the rotors:
Driver side front is a slotted rotor that is now solid on one half with very slight slots still remaining on the other half. Rotor is dead straight, not warped, and no major grooving.
Passenger side front still has slots all the way around but noticeable wear to the rotor. the slots are not nearly has deep as I would expect them to be with the few miles on the car.
Driving and braking is perfect. There is no noise, no shaking or vibration, no nothing. The car stops as it should from any speed.
The rotors prior to these were of the same make and style but didnt wear anything like this. They had been on the car for a year or so under very had driving and just had their time. Now these rotors are just shot!
Hope this all makes sense and someone can provide some insight to this?
I installed a second set of some very high end rotors 2months ago and noticed the other night that these rotors are pretty much shot. I have NOT done any tracking with these rotors as of yet. The rotors went on the car, made a trip to FL for a wkd and have since only seen daily driving conditions to and from work.
I have contacted the folks that I purchased the rotors from and rather not say who or which brand the rotors are until they get back to me.
However, I am posting to see what others think of my situation. So now to the condition of the rotors:
Driver side front is a slotted rotor that is now solid on one half with very slight slots still remaining on the other half. Rotor is dead straight, not warped, and no major grooving.
Passenger side front still has slots all the way around but noticeable wear to the rotor. the slots are not nearly has deep as I would expect them to be with the few miles on the car.
Driving and braking is perfect. There is no noise, no shaking or vibration, no nothing. The car stops as it should from any speed.
The rotors prior to these were of the same make and style but didnt wear anything like this. They had been on the car for a year or so under very had driving and just had their time. Now these rotors are just shot!
Hope this all makes sense and someone can provide some insight to this?
#2
Race Director
You need to tell us what pads are on the car to start. Wife, g/f drive the car? Automatic? Could be when you had them installed the calipers & hardware were not lubed correctly (or even installed correctly) and some brake drag is happening.
Last edited by froggy47; 12-22-2009 at 01:12 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Manual 6-spd
nobody drives the car other than myself
pads were lubed as necessary on edges
car in the air, spinning the wheels/rotors does not indicate any abnormal drag.
#4
Race Director
Puzzler.
My use is never normal, I expect to do rotors every two sets of pad.
For my other cars/trucks I have gotten 50-60 k miles on rotors (2 to 4) sets of pads & sometimes the rotors never seem to wear
Let us know what happens.
#5
Safety Car
Assuming you're a C6 non-Z06 with the stock caliper... I'd double check the calipers are actually moving on the slide pins and the slide pins are properly lubed and aren't bent or otherwise jammed.
FWIW, when I ran Hawk Blues/Blacks on another car I can tell you that they consumed rotors very quickly if you used them when they weren't up to temperature... so if you're running race pads on the street you may end up seeing excessive wear...
FWIW, when I ran Hawk Blues/Blacks on another car I can tell you that they consumed rotors very quickly if you used them when they weren't up to temperature... so if you're running race pads on the street you may end up seeing excessive wear...
#7
Safety Car
They do have different compounds and the last time I asked them they told me they did NOT have a streetable compound for the C5/C6.
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Assuming you're a C6 non-Z06 with the stock caliper... I'd double check the calipers are actually moving on the slide pins and the slide pins are properly lubed and aren't bent or otherwise jammed.
FWIW, when I ran Hawk Blues/Blacks on another car I can tell you that they consumed rotors very quickly if you used them when they weren't up to temperature... so if you're running race pads on the street you may end up seeing excessive wear...
FWIW, when I ran Hawk Blues/Blacks on another car I can tell you that they consumed rotors very quickly if you used them when they weren't up to temperature... so if you're running race pads on the street you may end up seeing excessive wear...
One of the first things I did check and it does seem the calipers are moving as they should. My first thought was the caliper had to be sticking and it doesnt seem to be.
When I bought the new rotors I bought new pads as well. Had a very good phone call with the distributor and explained to him my driving style so I'm pretty sure the setup is ok for my usage.
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
My conclusion was that track pads probably wear your rotors more when colder than what they are designed for - not a good street pad.
- This was with stock C6Z calipers and Coleman rotor rings.
/Nik
Last edited by Nimo; 12-23-2009 at 01:46 AM. Reason: calipers - not pads
#11
Safety Car
#14
Race Director
I've had the same set of rotors on my 02Z for 3+ years and 40,000 miles of street driving. About half of that was with ceramic pads, and half with the stock Z compound depending on where the sales were. No issues from switching around at all. Just put on a new set of pads and they still look almost brand new as far as wear is concerned.
#15
Race Director
Here's a link to the Cobalt (Racing Brake) site, at a brief look it seems they are all race pads except the very last (introduced in 2009) which might be ok for "occasional" street use.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/compounds/
I'm thinking you got some race pads, dude.
One of the main characteristics of race pads is to be "not" rotor friendly.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/compounds/
I'm thinking you got some race pads, dude.
One of the main characteristics of race pads is to be "not" rotor friendly.
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Here's a link to the Cobalt (Racing Brake) site, at a brief look it seems they are all race pads except the very last (introduced in 2009) which might be ok for "occasional" street use.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/compounds/
I'm thinking you got some race pads, dude.
One of the main characteristics of race pads is to be "not" rotor friendly.
http://www.cobaltfriction.com/compounds/
I'm thinking you got some race pads, dude.
One of the main characteristics of race pads is to be "not" rotor friendly.
You are correct in your findings, I have the CSR pads. One thing to note too is that the pads are in mint condition.
So I spoke to my brake guy and we are both baffled but he is a true professional and is helping me out with a new set of rotors. I will go to a street pad/rotor setup and swap to cobalt pad and race rotor setup when necessary.
#17
Race Director
You are correct in your findings, I have the CSR pads. One thing to note too is that the pads are in mint condition.
So I spoke to my brake guy and we are both baffled but he is a true professional and is helping me out with a new set of rotors. I will go to a street pad/rotor setup and swap to cobalt pad and race rotor setup when necessary.
So I spoke to my brake guy and we are both baffled but he is a true professional and is helping me out with a new set of rotors. I will go to a street pad/rotor setup and swap to cobalt pad and race rotor setup when necessary.
Glad we could help,
You can keep the new race rotors on all the time & just switch from street pads to race & back. Pad change is ez, rotors require the removal of caliper (ugh)But you would probably need to "clean" the rotors inbetween, although I have done it without the cleaning. When I swap in the race pads, their abrasion cleans off the transfer material from the street pads. But going the other way (race pad to street) I would probably do the clean, it's not hard, garnet paper & brake clean fluid. But if you go ceramic then clean between switches both ways so as not to contaminate either pad. Be careful. Some pad materials (from different pads) are mixable & some NOT.
Last edited by froggy47; 12-22-2009 at 08:26 PM.
#18
Le Mans Master
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I had the same happen when I didn't swap my XR1 pads after a track day - 2-3 weeks of street driving ruined the rotor. My have been a bit aggressive as I was breaking in a new clutch.
My conclusion was that track pads probably wear your rotors more when colder than what they are designed for - not a good street pad.
- This was with stock C6Z pads and Coleman rotor rings.
/Nik
My conclusion was that track pads probably wear your rotors more when colder than what they are designed for - not a good street pad.
- This was with stock C6Z pads and Coleman rotor rings.
/Nik