Autobahn93

I do about 4 HPDEs per year and driving a stock C06 Z06 (using Bridgestone RF street tires). During the last event I have burnt my new HPS brake pads during one session (20 minutes). Therefore I have already up-graded to 2 piece slotted front rotors and race pads for my next HPDE.

Do you guys think I would still need brake ducts when I just keep on using street tires?

Thanks for any input.

Oliver

John Shiels

you can need ducts with street tires only.

RDnomorecobra

hard to say .. your problem was the HPS pads.

ErnieN85

No you don't "need" them, but they are a great improvement for a real cheap price they will pay for themselves real quick in pad & rotor costs

sothpaw2

I have ducts on my C5 and I remain a bit unconvinced. They are not that cheap if you have a pro install them...I would go with a less agressive race pad and see how it goes first.

ErnieN85

C6 Z06 ducts about$12
Quantum holders & hoses about $150 install 2 hrs do it yourself. (not hard)

Autobahn93

Thanks for everybody's input. Just to be save I now lean more towards installing a kit as well....

Jason Staley

I went to cooling ducts after I warped my rotors using street tires and HPS pads at HPDE's, and haven't had a problem since. Cost $120 (DIY), but this is on a C3 so its not quite the exact same situation. Doesn't HAVE to be expensive if you can fabricate a bit using univeral stuff (ducts, hose, and fab a spindle plate for hose connection).

drivinfast

I am sold on them. warped rotors are no fun.

John Shiels

either are chucked out race pads at 400+ a set or boiled fluid or NO brakes!

BrianCunningham

It's not just the brakes, the bearings also need cooling.

AU N EGL

What tracks do you drive?


Four events a year is worth cooling ducts and Hawk DTC70s.

HPS are street pads

J Ritt

I'm gonna back RDnomorecobra on this one. Hawk HPS is a low noise, low dust street pad. It is NOT designed to be a track pad.

Please read this article I wrote on choosing pads: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c...ose-brake-pads

First buy yourself a good set of sintered or semi-metallic race pads, and some high quality brake fluid.

Ducts will certainly help, and are a cheap way to add cooling to your system. While I would recommend ducts to just about anyone running a corvette on a track, do the pads and fluid first and see where you fall out. If properly designed, the two piece rotors should give you some additional cooling, as they'll likely flow more air than the stock discs.

If you find you're still overheating your pads, you could move to a higher temp pad compound, or add the ducts.

Let me know if you need any help picking out specific parts and I'll give you some guidance based on your intended usage.

cire96

Oliver:
When most us started out tracking, we invariably braked waaaay too early, too softly and therefore for too long a duration. That's a combination that will cook the best brakes available - ducted or not.

Braking later and at a higher intensity may seem counterintuitive, but it is by far easier on equipment than the alternative. When I instruct, it's pretty much a given that counciling later/harder braking is one of the first things I work on with a driver who wants to go faster. Likewise his brakes last longer.
Cire

Bill Dearborn

It is hard to say whether they will help or not. DRM says their ducts for the C5 are the minimum diameter required to provide sufficient air to the C5 rotors. The C6Z in general will be going a little faster than a C5 so may need as large a duct or larger.

The C6Z stock ducts are 2.5 inches Vs the 3+ of the DRM C ducts. I would suspect you would need to go with a larger duct than the stock Z duct and the associated larger duct hose. On my C5Z I went from the DRM ducts to 3 inch LG spindle ducts with the red colored hose that LG sells. That is tough hose but it also is very stiff. I tended to break the welds on the spindle ducts where the tubes attached to the flat plate that mounts behind the wheel bearing. Some people don't have trouble with the red hose but I believe most of them are running the smaller hose that goes with the small LG Spindle ducts.

I didn't really notice that much improvement going from a couple of flexible ducts blowing at the back of the rotor Vs using the spindle ducts. Rotor and pad life stayed about the same.

Bill

sothpaw2

I seriously doubt that anyone who has not done it before could install it in a C5 in 2 hrs (1 hr per wheel--just lifting, supporting, and pulling the wheels is going to eat into that). If you get the DRM ducts plus the hose, spindle, etc you'll be at or over $300 plus install at a shop; could be $600-700 before you're done. I can't speak to the C6Z ducts on a
C5.

ErnieN85

I can speak to that as I did it........... the Z06 ducts are just about the same as the rippie ducts a bit of cutting (utility knife) drill one hole and two bolts in the wheel bearing hub pull them slip in the brack & put them back! two hoe clamps, put the wheels on and let it down.
with the ducts you will get a fast payback by not burning things up as fast, your brakes will work better and fade less. Since I have been using them I honestly think its the best Mod you can do if your are going to track your car. Now if you pay some one to do all your work it's going to cost a lot more however it does cost quite a bit to pay for bleeding brakes, replacing pads and rotors. so even if your paying for everything it's still a good deal!

Dan Wendling

Will LG Motor Sport G2 Spindle Ducts work with:

Pfadt C6 Competition Sway Bar and 18x11" rims?

On a 2010 Grand Sport

oldmansan

I installed the Z06 ducts and Quantum Motorsports spindle ducts. I would recommend going with SCAT (aviation-grade) hose. The only downsides are you may rub under full wheel lock and you need to tape shut the duct intakes to properly bed the brakes. The pic below is before I upgraded to SCAT hose.



San

Autobahn93

That is all great info

I normally track at VIR, NJMP and Summit Point.

I always tried to keep everything as much stock as possible.
I have just come to the point that keeping street pads do not work at all anymore (even when trying to work around it by braking strong & late for a short time and get off the throttle early and let aerodynamics help my brakes).

Again I have now up-graded to Motul 600, Carbotech XP8 (F/R) and AFX 2 piece front rotors.
After looking at all your comments I most likely will add brake ducts as well, although I really tried to swap out only parts that are up-grades AND really look like factory installed/designed.

Thanks everybody