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Dry sump plumbing?

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Old 03-03-2010, 12:43 AM
  #41  
vetracer
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Originally Posted by Bink
Slick!!!


As far as the question about the hose the Pro-lite does have its advantages, easier to work with, more flexible (which concerns me a little using the large diameter steel braid in the short line running from the pan to the tank) and less expensive. As my experience was that the hose didn't have a good clean path past the sharp edged protrusions on the block, through the p/s lines and near pulleys, ect. Also if I picked up a piece of metal debris with the RF tire could it go flying through and cut one of the two lines going from the pan to the sump? that's like the equivalent of a big jugular vein hanging down there

I will probably change to solid motor mounts soon to eliminate some of the problems that could be caused by movement of the engine and oil lines in relationship to the rest of the car.
Old 03-03-2010, 08:09 AM
  #42  
JVetthead
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For Tank mount; Fabbed bracket that you cant see out of 1" angle and welded to frame. Good idea to remove ECU as you will be welding right next to it. This is a ARE 3 gal tank, tight fit but it will go with some relieving of the firewall flange.





This is the mount we had to build to clear the Dailey pump.
Integral scavenge passages. No plumbing on suction side!



Old 03-03-2010, 09:10 AM
  #43  
MattB
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That is a sweet pan/pump combo. Nice setup!

Thanks for the photos, did you have to move the PCM? or remove the bracket the battery try sits on? My tank is not here yet so its hard to visualize what needs to be done.
Old 03-03-2010, 10:19 AM
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Got a great deal on used pan, new they are out of my realm.. Dailey said he has some used pans.. Yes must cut off battery tray bracket. And no did not relocate PCM but remove it when you weld next to it!
Old 03-03-2010, 04:05 PM
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Looking at your tank installs, I don't see a breather. Is that what the third hose on the tank is for ? In my experience a big high flowing breather setup is essential when using a multi-stage dry sump pump, they push a lot of air into the tank. (On the Z06 they seem to get away with a fairly standard PCV setup because, I assume, the oil pump is more of a stock based unit that is just pumping oil from the pan vs a multi-stage setup where there is more scavenging. In other words the Z06 tank just has a vent line to the valve covers and a vent source line from the filtered air inlet, and the PCV pulls through the valve covers and out the manifold valley into the throttle. )

Just wondering what you're doing for tank breathing, especially for the guy who has the tank in the trunk. Is a single -12 line really big enough especially if it travels a long ways ?
Old 03-03-2010, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by preston
Looking at your tank installs, I don't see a breather. Is that what the third hose on the tank is for ? In my experience a big high flowing breather setup is essential when using a multi-stage dry sump pump, they push a lot of air into the tank. (On the Z06 they seem to get away with a fairly standard PCV setup because, I assume, the oil pump is more of a stock based unit that is just pumping oil from the pan vs a multi-stage setup where there is more scavenging. In other words the Z06 tank just has a vent line to the valve covers and a vent source line from the filtered air inlet, and the PCV pulls through the valve covers and out the manifold valley into the throttle. )

Just wondering what you're doing for tank breathing, especially for the guy who has the tank in the trunk. Is a single -12 line really big enough especially if it travels a long ways ?
Breathers are very important not only for air getting out of the system. Simple test, try pouring 5 gallons of gas out of a fuel jug without the vent open. It will take you a day and a half Not really but you get the point.

Randy
Old 03-03-2010, 05:25 PM
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Ck the pic in post #22. Big vent breather on puke can
Old 03-06-2010, 10:27 AM
  #48  
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What to do with dipstick area. I assume the dipstick and tube will need to come out. How is it secured as stock and what to do to plug it?

Thanks,
Chuck
Old 03-06-2010, 12:13 PM
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0Randy@DRM
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Originally Posted by Wasserott
What to do with dipstick area. I assume the dipstick and tube will need to come out. How is it secured as stock and what to do to plug it?

Thanks,
Chuck
1/8 inch pipe thread, we buy them at Napa. Something that small we like to use the steel allen plugs!
Randy
Old 03-06-2010, 01:22 PM
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bowtiguy
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Default Here are a few of my C6Z system.

Hope it helps.

I used the LS7 pan from Gary @ A.R.E. and a custom tank from Peterson..ther are down the street from us in Commerce city.

They can build you anything you like and they have a showroom that you can buy fittings over the counter.

They have a large assortment of fittings from Earls and frangolia. If they are unused and you have your ales receipt, you can return them.

good luck!
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Old 03-06-2010, 06:15 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
1/8 inch pipe thread, we buy them at Napa. Something that small we like to use the steel allen plugs!
Randy
Thanks! You are a huge help.

Chuck
Old 03-07-2010, 01:40 PM
  #52  
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Next question guys...

I've got 2002 C5 Z06 and will be installing the 3gal (15"x9") tank where the battery went. Did anyone need to relocate the ECM. I've got the fender off and there doesn't seem to be many choices if necessary.

Thanks,
Chuck
Old 03-07-2010, 09:52 PM
  #53  
MattB
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Originally Posted by Wasserott
Next question guys...

I've got 2002 C5 Z06 and will be installing the 3gal (15"x9") tank where the battery went. Did anyone need to relocate the ECM. I've got the fender off and there doesn't seem to be many choices if necessary.

Thanks,
Chuck
I'm looking at that right now, same tank. No need to remove the PCM excpet during welding. From the above posts, the bracket that the battery trap attaches to has to be cut out. Not sure what the best way is, but it has to go. Is just cutting it off OK or grind down the welds? Also, the cowl needs to be trimed. Take a look at JVetteheads pics, they show the cowl triming and placement of the tank.

JVetthead, the photos of the tank rock! But I can't really make out the bracket you made. Any other photos or tips on it? I assume it comes up from the frame for a bit so you can attach the ARE brackets that go around the tank. But, where? Just above the PCM? Did you weld one of the flat sides or the two edges? Just a straight piece of angle iron or some other pieces of steel?

Hit an issue, I could only get two of the scavenge lines inside of the stock motor mount, and I don't see how to get the thrid with them. Anyway, I routed the line outside the motor mount, but when I put the sub-frame back on it hits the 90 fitting coming off the pump. I guess I can try a 120 and see if it clears but it will be close, anyway it looks like I'll be re-aranging the scavenge lines.
Old 03-08-2010, 09:36 AM
  #54  
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I cut the bat bracket off with a sawzall and ground the sharp edges. I did not get pics of the tank bracket but it comes off the frame horisontal (sp) and then vertical to the mounts L shaped. If you are running stock style hood you will prolly have to relieve the hood inner reinforcment. The 2 fittings on top of the tank in pics are contacting my CF hood so you should use a 90* fitting on tank and a straight or angled hose end to help there. I just have not done that yet. I think you can get a o-ring to -10 90*
Joe
Old 03-08-2010, 09:39 AM
  #55  
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It also helps to move fuse box out of the way a bit when wedging tank in.
Old 03-08-2010, 10:00 AM
  #56  
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Thanks! So, it will be a very tight fit vertically as well then. First thing though is to get my scavenge lines sorted out



Old 03-08-2010, 10:01 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by JVetthead
I put my oil temp and low pressure sensors on ports on my remote filtor mount..
ditto here, just had to extend the harness a bit.

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Old 03-08-2010, 01:45 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by MattB
Thanks! So, it will be a very tight fit vertically as well then. First thing though is to get my scavenge lines sorted out



heh.. Its a tight fit in every direction... I glued thick sheet rubber gaskit material on the frame rail where the bottom of tank rest. That will prevent chafing thru tank. Do this anywhere tank contacts metal or any sharp edge...
Old 03-13-2010, 11:15 AM
  #59  
Wasserott
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Default Remote Oil Filter Location

So this is how i wanted to mount my remote filter



or this...

But on my C5 Z06 the line/hose from the pwr steering pump to the rack is in the way. I'm sure i could get another line but it looks like more trouble than its worth if i can just go with this option...



The C6Z must have more room is this area than the C5...thoughts from others???

I don't have headlights so this option be would be simple. The first option just looks more tasteful
Old 03-13-2010, 04:38 PM
  #60  
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Default Remote Oil Filter Location

Decision made...



Now just waiting on the tank to be delivered...



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