MattB

Hey,

I'm looking for info on pluming for the ARE stage I kit, ARE didn't have info on anyone local to me that used his kit and doesn't have Vette specific info. ARE has been helpful and has a great product, but there is only so much they can do.

What I'm looking for is how to route the scavenge lines, and the lines to the tank and back. Also, what AN fittings. Like all 90 deg fittings or does 60 or 45 deg fittings work better in some locations? I was kind of thinking all 90's for the scavenge lines, and maybe 45's on the output from the scavenge pump and on the return from the tank to the stock oil pump. The only store local to me that carries AN fittings doesn't take returns so experimentation is expensive.

Photos would be great if you have some or can take some.

Thanks,
Matt

redvetracr

I can save you some money if you (or anyone else) some money if you know what you need (25% below Summit price)...sizes -6 to -16 all brand new and all genuine Aeroquip...hose ends only. send a PM if interested

wtknght1

The Phoenix guys (Joe Aqualante and crew) have done about 4 or 5 of these installs now (including mine) and have pretty much broken the code on the process.

davidfarmer

unless Phoenix can help, I think you are just going to have to install all of the parts, and see what ends you need. I only did one dry-sump personally, and picking the best ends and routing the lines was a real PITA! There is a lot to be said for the simplicity of the LS7's setup, even if it isn't multi-stage.

exracer28

On thier web site they have a drawing of the routing. I am in the process doing one and it is almost falling together but I also removed front fenders and inner liners. It has been two years so I wanted to pull everything apart and check wiring as well as replacing control arms and such. It makes a lot of difference when you have room.

Have fun.

0Vector Vette

Matt,
We have done a couple of these now and I don't think there is an exact answer to your question. Is this a C5 or C6? Where are you mounting the tank? Where is the oil cooler mounted? Where are you mounting the remote filter? Do you have headers? All these questions will affect what fittings are needed. I have not been able to run the 2 scavenge lines between the pump mount and the block. It is just too tight. I am now using Russell "Pro Lite" hose with crimp on fittings and it is much easier to work with. I am thinking, though I haven't tried it yet, that I can get both hoses between the block and mount along the pan with this style assembly. If that works, you will most likely need 4 90's, though you may need 1 120. We mount the tank where the battery used to be and relocate the battery. I will try to post some pictures later as this probably isn't a whole lot of help. I would also suggest that you find a differant supplier for the fittings. One that will let you return what you don't use.

Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
815-254-2631

MattB

I agree its going to be a major PIA, that is why I'm hoping some would share their stories, and really hope for some photos. Robert if you have some that would be great! I hate to call Phx as I haven't really bought much from them, although they have a great rep for customer service.

I have the pump and pan on the block, and was wanting to run the scavenge lines before I put the engine back in. Will I have issues with the headers?

It is a C5, and the tank I was planning on putting it in where the battery is now. At the moment it is the scavenge lines that I'm concerned about. I agree there does not seem to be enough room between the engine mount and the block to run lines, maybe one but it would be a PIA. ARE's literature says to avoid putting a 'trap' in the lines, and to keep them short as possible. But, with the locations I'd think they have to go around the motor mount, and was wondering what fittings might help or hurt. My first guess would be mostly 90 fittings for the scavenge lines with maybe a 60 or two.

The lines to the tank I'm not as worried as the actual mounting of the tank. I don't have the tank yet, so its an unknown. ARE is shipping it separately. When I get it I assume it will tell me a lot about how to do it.

The remote filter does not bother me as much, I was planning on putting it where my accusump is now under the drivers side fender. The oil cooler I'm planning on begin close to the filter, so on the left side. I see 90 fittings coming out of the pan and running along the block under the engine mount, ARE says to use size 10 lines for it, and run to the cooler. Then to the filter under the fender, and back.

Redvetrcr I may order some with you, I'll keep it in mind. Do you carry steel braided lines as well? But wanted to get the scavenge going as quickly as possible.

I'd love to find a local place that has a better policy, but not a lot around here. It is changing some with the success of our local NASA region, but slowly.

Thanks guys, keep it coming

0Randy@DRM

75 percent of the fittings will be 90 degree
25 percent will be others.

That is about all I can tell you. Order many, use most of them and return the ones you don't need. We are pretty lucky to have piles of AN stuff around here.

scavenge side we normally use all 90s from the pump to the pan. If the engine mount gets in the way, we have a solid setup that works great, I have 4 -10 lines running in between the mount and the block.

Randy

MattB

Thanks Randy, I was thinking about hard lines for this as well, do you mean you have a hard line setup for sale? I figured making one myself would take forever, and is why most do the hose instead. This pan and pump seems to have two 12 and one 10 scavenge lines.

Anyway, thanks and sounds like I'm going in the right direction LOL. But pics would be priceless.

0Randy@DRM

I was talking about a solid engine mount. Sorry no solid lines

MattB

No problem, I may have gotten carried away in myself LOL. Solid mounts are a good idea, and they may be in the future.

Racer Buzz

Here's a couple of shots of my dry sump lines

Racer Buzz

Photo Set 2

Want more?

trackboss

racerbuzz, which motor plate are you using and are you also supporting the rear of the engine?

Racer Buzz

Pass side engine / head plate. Custom made from 1/4" alum. Mounts / bolts to an "L" bracket that is welded to the frame rail.

trackboss

I see you are only attaching to the heads. Have you ever had any issues with cylinder seal? Wegner makes some very nice machined plates that only grab the heads as well and they said they have had zero problems on the stock cars. They are actually very inexpensive. I've researched around on motor plates and there are quite a few available. Most all attach at the water pump and some have additional attachments at the block which is nice.
thanks for the photos.

MattB

Racer Buzz, thanks for the photos. That is an interesting setup for the motor mounts, certainly opens up a lot of room.

Anyone have a solution for the oil temp sensor?

Racer Buzz

I welded an alum "bung" onto the lower portion of the Patterson 5 gal oil tank and then used a stock Corvette oil temp ele sensor.

Coldmale

Right guys

I have done the ARE Stage 3 on a 2007 z06. I developed the schematic plumbing diagram myself and ran it past Gerry at ARE and Jason at katech before we did the work

Send me a PM with your email address and I will send the schematic

All teh lines are available from katech, so you dont have to worry about anything

Hope that helps

John

JVetthead

I put my oil temp and low pressure sensors on ports on my remote filtor mount..