2000BSME

Okay, this is my dual use Corvette, and I think it has about 60k reasonably hard miles on it. The thing is that recently it started to 'shimmy' or vibrate in the wheels when braking. I took all the tires off and spent quite a while looking over the suspension and all I could find other than worn rubber bushings (none too bad, except maybe the front lower rear control arm mount on both sides) was a toe link ball joint in the rear, and the two steering ends on the front. All three seemed to have a noticeable amount of 'play' in them. The rear brake discs are going to be replaced as well, as the surface is very 'wavey', but still over the min. thickness so I will likely resurface them. I checked all the spindle ball ends and they seemed to be fine.

I would appreciate any insight anyone may have into this new occurrence.

tia

mgarfias

You have street pads on it? if so, first go out and get the brakes hot (til you can smell them). You could just have uneven pad deposits on the rotors.

longdaddy

the symptom of bad rear tie rod end for me was the car loosening up when I would go over bumps in the corners, almost like the shocks were bad.

but yeah, if you feel any play in them (with the wheel in the air and you tugging on it, it will go "click click" side to side but solid top to bottom) you likely cooked them. not an uncommon track failure.

davidfarmer

If there is more than 1/16" or so play, I'd replace them. Also, if you don't already, wrap those suckers with anything you can find (header wrap, even simply reflective tape) and they will last significantly longer.

Most brake shimmy is caused by the brakes or a flat-spotted tire, but bad ends will certainly contribute or exaggerate any other problems.

2000BSME

thanks. I'll keep to replacing the rear rotors first, and prepare to replace all three of the worn ball ends when it's convenient.

2000BSME

thanks for the replies, the problem ended up being surface 'flaking' on the front rotor. One rotor had two patches where the surface flaked off like chrome. I'm going to turn it down. On some materials that would indicate work hardening, but I'm not sure about cast iron.

:

longdaddy

what kind of pads have you been using?

2000BSME

iirc, hawk HT10. I have some Carbotechs I'm trying out next.

longdaddy

weird

2000BSME

I have pics, but I haven't uploaded them yet. I've never seen it before. Normally I'll crack a rotor, but I've never done this before.

Here is one:

Kanmer

If you use those rotors on the track, do not turn them. Replacethem. They are cheap enough where just turning them won't save you a whole lot.

Bob

2000BSME

$7 to turn, roughly $35 min. to buy new shipped or Napa in store. I'll take the turned rotors. They crack without regard to being turned or not anyway.

RX-Ben

You can get that price at NAPA, but you'll need to work the "Racer" price. $45 otherwise, and call in advance as they may need to ship them from another store.

Bill Dearborn

I would toss that rotor. Don't bother trying to turn it. That flaw is probably deeper than you think and will be below the minimum thickness.

Bill