Zenak

When you rebuild these couplers, are you all going with OEM style or aftermarket? Poly? Rubber? Billet? Any why.

This is a ROAD RACE application, and not for 1/4 mile ever on my manual transmission.

thanks.

Zenak

ttt - no one has rebuilt their manual torque tube in the racing section?
I find that hard to believe!

John Shiels

Holiday weekend

davidfarmer

I've never rebuilt one, as there are too many things that can fail, and it's pretty much impossible to determine if the shaft has issues, or if it's a bearing, or a donut etc.

In my personal experience using new one, but stock and modified with an aluminum donut, I never had any increase in longevity with aluminum, and personally think it adds a lot of shock to the drivetrain.

geerookie

I rebuilt mine about 3 years ago. I replaced all the bearings and both couplers. I used factory replacements but bought them from BMW because they were cheaper. You need a slinger ring, 3 bearings and 2 couplers. And one Big A$$ pair of C-Clip pliers.

Slinger Ring - GM part number is 12456208 cost $4.42 from www.gmpartshouse.com.
Bearings -

SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2

Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-31191
Description: 12mm Bolt
110 mm diameter : Uses (6) 12 x 1.5 x 58 bolt.
Trans Type: 5-Speed Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36

You can get a FEBI coupler or the Lemforder which is the OEM. I went with the FEBI. I got them at: http://www.bmwpartsexperts.com/ They were about $50 each.

0Randy@DRM

We deal with these damn things all the time. Our thoughts are

Stock shaft use two new rubber GM or BMW parts
Carbon shafts run rubber up front and solid in the rear.

Make sure the shaft isn't bent, there is a large plastic wear indicator in there to look at closely.

Heat up the bolts and they will come out nicely. Don't heat up the bolts and you will be breaking tools.

The large snap ring can hurt you, so make sure Tony has a big enough snap ring pillars. If not I just bought the shop a new one that you can use for a few days.

Randy

varkwso

I have replaced bushings with BMW parts and aluminum couplers. As David says check the rest of the TT carefully. I have had several that beat the bearing seat out at the flywheel end.

Zenak

thanks guys! great info!

adamsocb

Hey Zenak,
If you want to rebuild one before you take the car apart I have a torque tube in good shape for sale.

$500 +shipping.

rustyguns

Zenak

Bad link, but such great info it was easy to google and shop around, thanks again. $110 shipped for 2 couplers is a great deal. Im not going to do the full rebuild I think. But new couplers is always a god idea when matching up a hodge podge of parts so it all fits up snugglie tight

rustyguns

what is the correct URL ?

ssdeuce

How do you know when this needs to be done?

0Randy@DRM

Normally there is a noise that comes from the tube if a bearing is shot. The rubbers fly apart in a bad way. The idea is to get to it before it becomes a major problem.
Pro racers every 1-2 weekends at the track
club racers every year 4-6 weekends at the track
HPDE

Randy

stevensa

What does the noise sound like? I have always heard a slight rattling noise when in neutral/clutch out in almost every c5 I have driven, does the noise just get really obnoxious when its time to rebuild?

Zenak

i got the BMW version ones with the metal bolt sleeves in them. With Shipping after shopping around by part# it was $117 ground shipped. Im just doing the rubbers, the bearings tend to be good even under harsh conditions for some time. But form the people I spoke with its a good idea when even you are pairing up a new set of parts to change out the rubber couplers if they show any signs of wear at all, since as Randy put it they can fail in a jiff and that is bad. There are 2 kinds of BMW ones, one which is all rubber, and one with the metal bolt sleeves, for the HP/trq that vettes put out I would not suggest the cheaper ones without the sleeves.

AlwaysInBoost

Keith, make sure when you install them you get the orientation correct... there are arrows showing which way to mount them. I forget whether you want them facing forward or backwards. when I did mine I installed an aluminum coupler in the rear and a new BMW rubber bushing in the front one. No issue so far with either.

harbor freight FTW:

http://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch...campaign=2710B

varkwso

by the time you hear a noise the TT is usually toast in my sad experience.

stevensa

Can you give a better description of what it sounds/ feels like? Does it get worse really bad at higher engine rpm's?

John Shiels

I drove to VIR 14+ hours to have mine fail then the second time to VIR the clutch went.

Mine was banging good. I scraped the whole thing.