Wheel Spacer Question: Front AND Rear?
#1
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
Wheel Spacer Question: Front AND Rear?
Wheel Spacer Question: Front AND Rear?
I want to BBK the fronts. OEM the rears.
Do I need to spacer both in order to make this happen and keep symmetry or can I just spacer the fronts?
Will I need the longer ARP studs to do this in the hubs for a CCW classic? Fiske?
I want to BBK the fronts. OEM the rears.
Do I need to spacer both in order to make this happen and keep symmetry or can I just spacer the fronts?
Will I need the longer ARP studs to do this in the hubs for a CCW classic? Fiske?
#2
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
My 17inch classics have very little clearance and need a spacer. I did replace the centers on 1 set of classics and it looks like there is more clearance now but never tried without the spacer. I run wilwood bbk
#3
Terminal Vette Addict
Thread Starter
If you go with less than 1/4 inch you will not need longer studs. You would only need to add a spacer to the front if you are only going with bbk for the front.
My 17inch classics have very little clearance and need a spacer. I did replace the centers on 1 set of classics and it looks like there is more clearance now but never tried without the spacer. I run wilwood bbk
My 17inch classics have very little clearance and need a spacer. I did replace the centers on 1 set of classics and it looks like there is more clearance now but never tried without the spacer. I run wilwood bbk
Stock rotor sizes?
Which rotors?
#5
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#6
Team Owner
They work great but depending on the compound you will need ducts. You can run Hardbar rotors, NAPA or Stoptech. Anything really that matches OEM. You need a big spacer with the classics and longer studs. Spacer is .750" or .850
#7
Drifting
Yes and no on the longer studs. If you're talking about OEM studs then, yes, you need to run longer studs as the last 1/4" of the stud is not threaded. If you have fully threaded standard length studs (DRM for instance) you'll be ok.
#8
Former Vendor
Though my C6 vert will not see huge track time and maybe not even race tires I put better studs on to run the 3/16th spacers I needed to clear the BBK and wheels I had at the time.
I have a set for the rear though no spacers needed and a full set for my TT car to install and no spacers will be used. For the time and cost, ARP studs might be a very very affordable investment
Rick
I have a set for the rear though no spacers needed and a full set for my TT car to install and no spacers will be used. For the time and cost, ARP studs might be a very very affordable investment
Rick
#9
do anything you can to get away from stock C5 rotor sizes. I would honestly run stock C6Z PBR crap setup over anything in C5 size even if it has bazillion dollar caliper on it.
oh yes, I am a proud owner of SL-6 system with OEM sized rotors.
oh yes, I am a proud owner of SL-6 system with OEM sized rotors.
Last edited by longdaddy; 08-03-2010 at 04:14 AM.
#10
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St. Jude Donor '05-'08
I have sl6 with wilwood 2 pc rotors stock size. If I didn't have my wheels already I would have moved up to the next size rotor but already owning 4 sets of ccw I was not going to change.
I have no issues with stopping and the ww are easy to work on. Just would like the rotors to last longer.
I have no issues with stopping and the ww are easy to work on. Just would like the rotors to last longer.
#11
Drifting
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I have sl6 with wilwood 2 pc rotors stock size. If I didn't have my wheels already I would have moved up to the next size rotor but already owning 4 sets of ccw I was not going to change.
I have no issues with stopping and the ww are easy to work on. Just would like the rotors to last longer.
I have no issues with stopping and the ww are easy to work on. Just would like the rotors to last longer.
He has the new AP ones and then he has the ones I run. I don't know if he ever made the rotors and hats I have an official part but he does/can make them and I know there are one or two other guys running the same setup I have.