hoosiers R6 experience - normal?
08-03-2010, 04:05 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
hoosiers R6 experience - normal?
C5Z stock motor/drivetrain, coils.
decided to try r6. most of the time ran them about 32-34psi hot which meant starting around 26-27psi cold.
alignment is dialed in to where I have pretty uniform wear across the surface, slightly more on the outside.
first 2 events - nice grip, very fast
next 2 events - still good grip, comparable to fresh r comps maybe, upper to average range of my normal speeds/times. some oversteer starting to become an issue but controllable.
5th event - consant understeer develops after 1st session, have to slow down and back off throttle significantly going into corners compared to my normal speeds. when the rear breaks loose, pretty hard to correct/recover.
events 1, 2, and 3 had fewer cycles/sessions (maybe 13 total). event #4 was long, 6 near 30 minute sessions. i quit after session 3 of the last day because of unpredictable grip and fatigue issues, maybe related
tires are thrown away with grooves still showing about 1.5-2/32nds depth. the surface looks blistered and uneven, especially in the front - that happened at the last day as it progressed, they looked fine until then.
is this normal experience? trying a6 now hoping for a more gradual traction drop-off with heat cycles.
how do people buy these used? are you guaranteed that the tires have not had more than a few cycles? at my 3rd or 4th event it would not have been possible to tell that they are about to go from just looking at the surface
decided to try r6. most of the time ran them about 32-34psi hot which meant starting around 26-27psi cold.
alignment is dialed in to where I have pretty uniform wear across the surface, slightly more on the outside.
first 2 events - nice grip, very fast
next 2 events - still good grip, comparable to fresh r comps maybe, upper to average range of my normal speeds/times. some oversteer starting to become an issue but controllable.
5th event - consant understeer develops after 1st session, have to slow down and back off throttle significantly going into corners compared to my normal speeds. when the rear breaks loose, pretty hard to correct/recover.
events 1, 2, and 3 had fewer cycles/sessions (maybe 13 total). event #4 was long, 6 near 30 minute sessions. i quit after session 3 of the last day because of unpredictable grip and fatigue issues, maybe related
tires are thrown away with grooves still showing about 1.5-2/32nds depth. the surface looks blistered and uneven, especially in the front - that happened at the last day as it progressed, they looked fine until then.
is this normal experience? trying a6 now hoping for a more gradual traction drop-off with heat cycles.
how do people buy these used? are you guaranteed that the tires have not had more than a few cycles? at my 3rd or 4th event it would not have been possible to tell that they are about to go from just looking at the surface
08-03-2010, 08:51 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
I've said it before and stand by it: R6's are crap. They heat cycle out far too fast. My guess is you were more used to the grip you were getting from them and driving harder..if that's the case those tire pressures are too high...
08-03-2010, 10:25 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
I have been using R6's for quite a long time and feel the contrary. If proper taken care of they will last a while and hold grip well into several heat cycles.
I attended a Porcshe regional club race and Hoosier was out in full force with 2 trailers providing tires for the race. They came with a HOST of engineers. They provided a tire tech seminar and had their lead engineers going into great detail about the care and proper use of the A/R6 for HPDE. According to Hoosier, most people start the pressures WAY too low thinking they get better grip that way. What you are doing is overheating them, creating extra wear, and ruining the shoulders. The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
They stated that by running the tires that low, you are seriously compromising the life and durability of the tire. While it may initially feel better, you will get significantly less heat cycles and wear out of your investment.
They went on to state furthermore, that for cars that are in excess of 3000lbs, you should start AT LEAST 30lbs cold (if not 32lbs). You need to resist the temptation to start out with low pressures thinking you'll maintain grip when they get hot. You are not getting better grip.
I start mine at 31 or 32 and get them almost up to 40lbs and they feel great. I do not lose grip as the session goes on, and the tires never give me the false sense of softness that makes me feel I have lost some grip from the start of the session. I also get much more than a full season out of a set and they grip like gangbusters for several track events. Also, I have sold several of these used with good life left in them.
Heck, just Sunday I won a Time Trial outright on a used set of R6's with 5 days on them already...actually set a club lap record. You need to care for your tires and watch them very closely to provide long life.
I attended a Porcshe regional club race and Hoosier was out in full force with 2 trailers providing tires for the race. They came with a HOST of engineers. They provided a tire tech seminar and had their lead engineers going into great detail about the care and proper use of the A/R6 for HPDE. According to Hoosier, most people start the pressures WAY too low thinking they get better grip that way. What you are doing is overheating them, creating extra wear, and ruining the shoulders. The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
They stated that by running the tires that low, you are seriously compromising the life and durability of the tire. While it may initially feel better, you will get significantly less heat cycles and wear out of your investment.
They went on to state furthermore, that for cars that are in excess of 3000lbs, you should start AT LEAST 30lbs cold (if not 32lbs). You need to resist the temptation to start out with low pressures thinking you'll maintain grip when they get hot. You are not getting better grip.
I start mine at 31 or 32 and get them almost up to 40lbs and they feel great. I do not lose grip as the session goes on, and the tires never give me the false sense of softness that makes me feel I have lost some grip from the start of the session. I also get much more than a full season out of a set and they grip like gangbusters for several track events. Also, I have sold several of these used with good life left in them.
Heck, just Sunday I won a Time Trial outright on a used set of R6's with 5 days on them already...actually set a club lap record. You need to care for your tires and watch them very closely to provide long life.
Last edited by 95jersey; 08-03-2010 at 10:28 AM.
08-03-2010, 10:59 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Doesn't Hoosier recommend right on their site to run the R6's between 40 - 42psi? (or 41 - 43?)
I've had a set last me a whole season, and then some (maybe not LONG sessions, but several of them) and then a set only last a couple (long/hard running) days
. I think in that case, I was running with lower than normal pressures though (maybe ~36psi or so hot?)
I'm thinking there's truth behind running them with higher pressures.
I've had a set last me a whole season, and then some (maybe not LONG sessions, but several of them) and then a set only last a couple (long/hard running) days
. I think in that case, I was running with lower than normal pressures though (maybe ~36psi or so hot?)I'm thinking there's truth behind running them with higher pressures.
08-03-2010, 11:21 AM
#5
Race Director
4 events of 6 sessions each is a lot of heat cycles. I think many people have unrealistic expectations. Just because a tire still has tread on it does not guarantee it is still sticky. Some tires are good right down to the chord, some are crap after a few heat cycles.
Tire pressures are always a balance. 40psi will probably maximize life and reduce wear around the outside edge, but you'll likely get more grip (for a shorter life) running significantly less pressure. If you are DEing, run more pressure, if you are TTing or qualifying, run less. Experience will be your guide.
Tire pressures are always a balance. 40psi will probably maximize life and reduce wear around the outside edge, but you'll likely get more grip (for a shorter life) running significantly less pressure. If you are DEing, run more pressure, if you are TTing or qualifying, run less. Experience will be your guide.
08-03-2010, 11:59 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
This is my first year TTing R6's
I've found starting 26 - 30 lb of air works for me.
Tires have dropped off, but it looks like I'll get one more TT event out of them this year.
Still will be good for DE but not TT, time to find $1400 under the matress for next year.
I've found starting 26 - 30 lb of air works for me.
Tires have dropped off, but it looks like I'll get one more TT event out of them this year.
Still will be good for DE but not TT, time to find $1400 under the matress for next year.
08-03-2010, 12:17 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
having said that, I do want to use a tire that will not have nearly night-and-day difference between 20heat cycles and 21!
i have been used to the r-comps that reduce traction gradually (aside from r888), this was very different - thus the question
08-03-2010, 12:19 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
I have been using R6's for quite a long time and feel the contrary. If proper taken care of they will last a while and hold grip well into several heat cycles.
I attended a Porcshe regional club race and Hoosier was out in full force with 2 trailers providing tires for the race. They came with a HOST of engineers. They provided a tire tech seminar and had their lead engineers going into great detail about the care and proper use of the A/R6 for HPDE. According to Hoosier, most people start the pressures WAY too low thinking they get better grip that way. What you are doing is overheating them, creating extra wear, and ruining the shoulders. The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
They stated that by running the tires that low, you are seriously compromising the life and durability of the tire. While it may initially feel better, you will get significantly less heat cycles and wear out of your investment.
They went on to state furthermore, that for cars that are in excess of 3000lbs, you should start AT LEAST 30lbs cold (if not 32lbs). You need to resist the temptation to start out with low pressures thinking you'll maintain grip when they get hot. You are not getting better grip.
I start mine at 31 or 32 and get them almost up to 40lbs and they feel great. I do not lose grip as the session goes on, and the tires never give me the false sense of softness that makes me feel I have lost some grip from the start of the session. I also get much more than a full season out of a set and they grip like gangbusters for several track events. Also, I have sold several of these used with good life left in them.
Heck, just Sunday I won a Time Trial outright on a used set of R6's with 5 days on them already...actually set a club lap record. You need to care for your tires and watch them very closely to provide long life.
I attended a Porcshe regional club race and Hoosier was out in full force with 2 trailers providing tires for the race. They came with a HOST of engineers. They provided a tire tech seminar and had their lead engineers going into great detail about the care and proper use of the A/R6 for HPDE. According to Hoosier, most people start the pressures WAY too low thinking they get better grip that way. What you are doing is overheating them, creating extra wear, and ruining the shoulders. The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
They stated that by running the tires that low, you are seriously compromising the life and durability of the tire. While it may initially feel better, you will get significantly less heat cycles and wear out of your investment.
They went on to state furthermore, that for cars that are in excess of 3000lbs, you should start AT LEAST 30lbs cold (if not 32lbs). You need to resist the temptation to start out with low pressures thinking you'll maintain grip when they get hot. You are not getting better grip.
I start mine at 31 or 32 and get them almost up to 40lbs and they feel great. I do not lose grip as the session goes on, and the tires never give me the false sense of softness that makes me feel I have lost some grip from the start of the session. I also get much more than a full season out of a set and they grip like gangbusters for several track events. Also, I have sold several of these used with good life left in them.
Heck, just Sunday I won a Time Trial outright on a used set of R6's with 5 days on them already...actually set a club lap record. You need to care for your tires and watch them very closely to provide long life.
For safety concerns and all that legal stuff, there is the "recommended" pressure...and then there's the "optimal pressure". most tire companies who sell "race" designated tires to the public have pressures like Hoosier does.
I typically run A6's, but got into a bind one weekend and found a set of new R6's for half cost to run, my mechanic put the wrong cold temps in the tires and started me off at 31/30 cold (or something similar), and by the 6th lap I gave up fighting the car and came into the pits to have tire pressures bled down. I was reading 43 hot in front and 41 rear. This wasn't even half way through the race. At those pressures I could not get the front end to turn without some serious quick lift of the throttle mid corner, and then stabbing the throttle to rotate the rear around (throttle on oversteer). The car was quite literally impossible to turn. Apparently he only bled them down to about 37/37ish, and not even 2 laps later i was right back where i started with not being able to turn. so i gave up fighting the car and slowed down so i could actually finish.
On A6's I have found the car to get "slippery" on track when the hot pressures start getting close to 35#'s
I typically run A6's, but got into a bind one weekend and found a set of new R6's for half cost to run, my mechanic put the wrong cold temps in the tires and started me off at 31/30 cold (or something similar), and by the 6th lap I gave up fighting the car and came into the pits to have tire pressures bled down. I was reading 43 hot in front and 41 rear. This wasn't even half way through the race. At those pressures I could not get the front end to turn without some serious quick lift of the throttle mid corner, and then stabbing the throttle to rotate the rear around (throttle on oversteer). The car was quite literally impossible to turn. Apparently he only bled them down to about 37/37ish, and not even 2 laps later i was right back where i started with not being able to turn. so i gave up fighting the car and slowed down so i could actually finish.
On A6's I have found the car to get "slippery" on track when the hot pressures start getting close to 35#'s
and this:
Driving on old/worn A6's really makes you a driver. You can't just put the car where you want anymore and stomp the throttle, you must learn to be smooth all around and take the clean line.
I don't have the experience in various tire sizes, but I do have experience on A/R 6's. Used R's can be as fast as used A's for 1-2 laps (according to my data on R's vs. another drivers times on used As that I was racing against).
With that said, I would go with the smaller A's if it were me, and run away from R6's regardless of who tells you they are good..unless it's an enduro (maybe..)
I don't have the experience in various tire sizes, but I do have experience on A/R 6's. Used R's can be as fast as used A's for 1-2 laps (according to my data on R's vs. another drivers times on used As that I was racing against).
With that said, I would go with the smaller A's if it were me, and run away from R6's regardless of who tells you they are good..unless it's an enduro (maybe..)
I don't like the R6's at all, and I'm not the only one
08-03-2010, 12:25 PM
#9
Racer
on A6's anyway, I've found them to be faster at lower pressures. every tire size/sidewall height is going to have a different sweet spot, what I run in my 275s doesn't seem to work as well in the 295s
for 275/35/18 I've tried just about ever pressure, low is faster.
for 275/35/18 I've tried just about ever pressure, low is faster.
08-03-2010, 12:44 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
first of all, aside for a few warm up laps, the pressures I used did not cause the tire to roll over. I know exactly what it feels and looks like, and it was definitely not an issue.
second, your explanation implies that as temperatures and pressure cross certain point, the feedback decreases while traction stays the same. aside from the very few warm-up laps, this is inconsistent with my experience, not to mention I do not understand the physics of this. how do increased pressures decrease the feedback? if the pressures increase, so does the effective stiffness of your sidewalls which would give you MORE feedback not less, that is definitely what it feels like to me.
in my experience, whenever the tires would cross 35-36psi hot, feedback aside, there would be noticeable and objective drop-off in performance - lower corner speeds, less stability, more frequent incidents of available traction exceeded momentarily, etc. Analyzing videos and tracking lap times, I am pretty certain that it's not just in my head.
this is main reason I kept the temps where I did. this was the sweet spot for how fast the car would go and how predictable it would be in using up available traction without any unusual wear showing up until 5th day.
08-03-2010, 01:04 PM
#11
Team Owner
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Doesn't Hoosier recommend right on their site to run the R6's between 40 - 42psi? (or 41 - 43?)
I've had a set last me a whole season, and then some (maybe not LONG sessions, but several of them) and then a set only last a couple (long/hard running) days. I think in that case, I was running with lower than normal pressures though (maybe ~36psi or so hot?)
I'm thinking there's truth behind running them with higher pressures.
I've had a set last me a whole season, and then some (maybe not LONG sessions, but several of them) and then a set only last a couple (long/hard running) days
. I think in that case, I was running with lower than normal pressures though (maybe ~36psi or so hot?)I'm thinking there's truth behind running them with higher pressures.
may 26-27 hot and 19-20 cold
Rs need one heat cycle to prep the tire and get the mold release off the tread. then sit for 24 hours. minimum so the idea of using sticker Rs for a whole week end is not really a good idea.
Rs are good for 2-4 heat cycles fast, 5 to 7 OK 8+ is for practice lapping.
Why do you think so many racers sell Rs with 3-4 heat cycles ON?
08-03-2010, 01:08 PM
#12
Racer
08-03-2010, 02:18 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
i have read this several times and i am sorry but this does not make a lot of sense, maybe I am missing something.
first of all, aside for a few warm up laps, the pressures I used did not cause the tire to roll over. I know exactly what it feels and looks like, and it was definitely not an issue.
second, your explanation implies that as temperatures and pressure cross certain point, the feedback decreases while traction stays the same. aside from the very few warm-up laps, this is inconsistent with my experience, not to mention I do not understand the physics of this. how do increased pressures decrease the feedback? if the pressures increase, so does the effective stiffness of your sidewalls which would give you MORE feedback not less, that is definitely what it feels like to me.
in my experience, whenever the tires would cross 35-36psi hot, feedback aside, there would be noticeable and objective drop-off in performance - lower corner speeds, less stability, more frequent incidents of available traction exceeded momentarily, etc. Analyzing videos and tracking lap times, I am pretty certain that it's not just in my head.
this is main reason I kept the temps where I did. this was the sweet spot for how fast the car would go and how predictable it would be in using up available traction without any unusual wear showing up until 5th day.
first of all, aside for a few warm up laps, the pressures I used did not cause the tire to roll over. I know exactly what it feels and looks like, and it was definitely not an issue.
second, your explanation implies that as temperatures and pressure cross certain point, the feedback decreases while traction stays the same. aside from the very few warm-up laps, this is inconsistent with my experience, not to mention I do not understand the physics of this. how do increased pressures decrease the feedback? if the pressures increase, so does the effective stiffness of your sidewalls which would give you MORE feedback not less, that is definitely what it feels like to me.
in my experience, whenever the tires would cross 35-36psi hot, feedback aside, there would be noticeable and objective drop-off in performance - lower corner speeds, less stability, more frequent incidents of available traction exceeded momentarily, etc. Analyzing videos and tracking lap times, I am pretty certain that it's not just in my head.
this is main reason I kept the temps where I did. this was the sweet spot for how fast the car would go and how predictable it would be in using up available traction without any unusual wear showing up until 5th day.
They stated when the tire was cold it would flex a bit more and provide a feeling of better grip initially. When I say roll over, I don't literally mean off the rim, I mean they just flex around a bit more than when they are hot with greater pressure. Think about it. If your approaching the tire's limit, and instead of it being rock hard and giving away, it has the ability to flex a bit, your going to get the extra bit of grip. If the tire becomes rock hard stiff due to high pressures, now you are at the mercy of the tread compound solely. The tire doesn't have the ability to provide that little bit of flex to provide that last bit of grip.
Maybe I am not transposing the information as clearly, but it made total sense in the seminar. They 100% stated that as the temp and pressure goes up, the actual traction of the rubber does not become compromised (ie. negates the "greasy" theory). The tires are just rock hard at that point and are not providing the flex that give you that extra 10th.
I think Dave's post hits the nail on the head. If 100% traction is you absolute concern, you probably want to run them a little low. If you are looking to use them over the longest period of time possible, run them higher overall.
Like I said, I run them cold at 31-32 and get great results and they last a long time. What temp they get to hot actually depends on the track, outside temp, how long I run and how hard.
08-03-2010, 03:33 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
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I have been using R6's for quite a long time and feel the contrary. If proper taken care of they will last a while and hold grip well into several heat cycles.
I attended a Porcshe regional club race and Hoosier was out in full force with 2 trailers providing tires for the race. They came with a HOST of engineers. They provided a tire tech seminar and had their lead engineers going into great detail about the care and proper use of the A/R6 for HPDE. According to Hoosier, most people start the pressures WAY too low thinking they get better grip that way. What you are doing is overheating them, creating extra wear, and ruining the shoulders. The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
They stated that by running the tires that low, you are seriously compromising the life and durability of the tire. While it may initially feel better, you will get significantly less heat cycles and wear out of your investment.
They went on to state furthermore, that for cars that are in excess of 3000lbs, you should start AT LEAST 30lbs cold (if not 32lbs). You need to resist the temptation to start out with low pressures thinking you'll maintain grip when they get hot. You are not getting better grip.
I start mine at 31 or 32 and get them almost up to 40lbs and they feel great. I do not lose grip as the session goes on, and the tires never give me the false sense of softness that makes me feel I have lost some grip from the start of the session. I also get much more than a full season out of a set and they grip like gangbusters for several track events. Also, I have sold several of these used with good life left in them.
Heck, just Sunday I won a Time Trial outright on a used set of R6's with 5 days on them already...actually set a club lap record. You need to care for your tires and watch them very closely to provide long life.
I attended a Porcshe regional club race and Hoosier was out in full force with 2 trailers providing tires for the race. They came with a HOST of engineers. They provided a tire tech seminar and had their lead engineers going into great detail about the care and proper use of the A/R6 for HPDE. According to Hoosier, most people start the pressures WAY too low thinking they get better grip that way. What you are doing is overheating them, creating extra wear, and ruining the shoulders. The intial better grip is actually the tire providing more compliance and rolling over on itself when cold, giving you the false sense that you have better grip (all while ruining your tire). Then when the tire gets hot and stiff, compared to the softer tire, it gives you the impression that you have lost grip or the tires have become "greasy". All that has happened is that the tire is now VERY stiff and not providing the same "feedback" as the softer tire. The rubber is still providing the same level of grip.
They stated that by running the tires that low, you are seriously compromising the life and durability of the tire. While it may initially feel better, you will get significantly less heat cycles and wear out of your investment.
They went on to state furthermore, that for cars that are in excess of 3000lbs, you should start AT LEAST 30lbs cold (if not 32lbs). You need to resist the temptation to start out with low pressures thinking you'll maintain grip when they get hot. You are not getting better grip.
I start mine at 31 or 32 and get them almost up to 40lbs and they feel great. I do not lose grip as the session goes on, and the tires never give me the false sense of softness that makes me feel I have lost some grip from the start of the session. I also get much more than a full season out of a set and they grip like gangbusters for several track events. Also, I have sold several of these used with good life left in them.
Heck, just Sunday I won a Time Trial outright on a used set of R6's with 5 days on them already...actually set a club lap record. You need to care for your tires and watch them very closely to provide long life.
THANKS! 
08-03-2010, 03:35 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
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4 events of 6 sessions each is a lot of heat cycles. I think many people have unrealistic expectations. Just because a tire still has tread on it does not guarantee it is still sticky. Some tires are good right down to the chord, some are crap after a few heat cycles.
Tire pressures are always a balance. 40psi will probably maximize life and reduce wear around the outside edge, but you'll likely get more grip (for a shorter life) running significantly less pressure. If you are DEing, run more pressure, if you are TTing or qualifying, run less. Experience will be your guide.
Tire pressures are always a balance. 40psi will probably maximize life and reduce wear around the outside edge, but you'll likely get more grip (for a shorter life) running significantly less pressure. If you are DEing, run more pressure, if you are TTing or qualifying, run less. Experience will be your guide.
08-03-2010, 03:38 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
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YES to protect themselves
may 26-27 hot and 19-20 cold
Rs need one heat cycle to prep the tire and get the mold release off the tread. then sit for 24 hours. minimum so the idea of using sticker Rs for a whole week end is not really a good idea.
Rs are good for 2-4 heat cycles fast, 5 to 7 OK 8+ is for practice lapping.
Why do you think so many racers sell Rs with 3-4 heat cycles ON?
may 26-27 hot and 19-20 cold
Rs need one heat cycle to prep the tire and get the mold release off the tread. then sit for 24 hours. minimum so the idea of using sticker Rs for a whole week end is not really a good idea.
Rs are good for 2-4 heat cycles fast, 5 to 7 OK 8+ is for practice lapping.
Why do you think so many racers sell Rs with 3-4 heat cycles ON?
08-03-2010, 04:49 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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What counts as a heat cycle?
Assuming the initial heat cycle is recommended to be 24 hours after heating for the cool down.
Why then would a 20 min track session with a 2 hour cool down between sessions count as a full heat cycle. Seems like it wouldn't
I don't recall seeing anyone using tire warmers between sessions at HPDE or TT event to stretch the day into one heat cycle? Why is that?
For $1500-2000 worth of tire warmers you can pay for a set of R6s in a hurry if you can reduce the effective number of heat cycles. Even a 2:1 improvement will pay for the tire warmers in one season.
What am I missing?
Why then would a 20 min track session with a 2 hour cool down between sessions count as a full heat cycle. Seems like it wouldn't
I don't recall seeing anyone using tire warmers between sessions at HPDE or TT event to stretch the day into one heat cycle? Why is that?
For $1500-2000 worth of tire warmers you can pay for a set of R6s in a hurry if you can reduce the effective number of heat cycles. Even a 2:1 improvement will pay for the tire warmers in one season.
What am I missing?
08-03-2010, 04:52 PM
#20
Racer
