LeMans05C6

Well I know its a while before i get there, but I want to make sure I am heading in the right direction. I like the idea of PTA (TTA before that doesn't need a cage so thats where i would be for a while since cages aren't cheap) since you aren't allowed to do much to a C6 and can still compete.

Running through those 12pts in my head after the 7pt C6 deduction is tough. To save points in this department do you guys really run like stock exhaust, headers sways and an intake along with some tires? Not much wiggle room after you put tires on there.

Toyo R888s are 7 pts on 295s. Hoosier R6s are 10pts which would leave me 2 pts which would be what headers or sways thats it. I wonder if only doing these little things to the car puts me at a disadvantage against someone who has taken a car many classes lower and brought it up to A. Spec race car is probably gonna be a nearly stock C6 i would think. I know driver skill is involved but just wondering peoples experiences with PTA and what cars your up against... Things like that.

I plan to run R888s here soon on my 2nd set of stock wheels and upgrade my pads to something like DTC60s or XP8s to go along with them. I will see how my rotors and tires handle my next track day coming up Sept 11th here in Cresson, TX with the Driver's Edge, but i know to step it up to the next level and learn the feel of stickier tires its the direction i want to go.

If anyone is reading this any thoughts on a rotor replacement. Racing would probably merit a two piece for the weight savings eventually. Any brand thats better if i stay mostly stock? SLOTTED OR FLAT better for racing.

Just trying to ask these questions now so that I can point myself in the right direction. I know i am bound to be in these guys shoes eventually

but still thought id ask questions from the people run road race and do NASA events.

Trying to talk to the TX regional director about getting into the Eagles Canyon event on Oct 2-3. Hopefully ill get to see the action and how everything is run.

LeMans05C6

Looks like after reviewing more even the holes that were cut in the shroud when i bought it are a point. If i ever turn this into a race car... looks like ill at least be joining the ST2 catagory. Lots of $$ to get up to the level of the ST1 cars out there.

sperkins

I feel all important when people quote me.

TTA/PTA are really 2 completely different animals. But, you can set your car up to be competetive in both.

Forget power mods other than a good tune and maybe a CAI.
Headers will cost you 5 points anyway since you'll have to swap the mid-pipe.
The C6 brakes will work fine - 2pts for an upgrade which isn't worth it imo.
Tires - R888's are decent, but you will get beat by Hankook and Hoosiers etc...

The dominating TTA C5Z in the SE region this year ran:
9pt 275 A's
2 point sways
1 point CAI
Bunch of free stuff.
(some of which he will not share)

drivinhard

We run stock engines, exhaust (w/ cats) and we haul @$$

360-370 (400 if you're jason) RWHP and 3150 lb will get to "kill you" speeds in a hurry.

it's enough for me

AU N EGL

Hoosier As or you may not be competitive
Dyno Tune,

sperkins

.

Z06cool

People do it all the time with me but usually it's some lie I told about my top speed I reached in the rain at night going uphill backwards....

LeMans05C6

I figure by the time i get to TTs I will be running slicks. Making the slow progression to build up my skill with sticker r-comps but not slicks yet. Gotta get to the point where i know the tire is holding me back. Right now i doubt its true for my street tires. Lots of skill to develop first.

So 275(-4) Hoosier As(+13) in the rears not sure what you do for the fronts with that size since its smaller. Makes sense to get sways since those are going to best for the track. Just been trying to figure out where to put my upgrade money so I don't put myself in a position I have to spend a more since I went over a class barrier.

Was thinking about the Pfadt Heavy (new classification) Duty Sway bars and eventually getting a Vararam. How does that get classified. Still just a CAI even though the RAM AIR part of it does make a difference once your moving?

Lan.Jet

Just be ready to get bumped into the next class with the A’s. This is what happened to me. As it turned out I won the last two events it was nice to get tires. Thank you Hoosier

LeMans05C6

These are the things that I am looking to learn. I guess i didn't look close enough that the x-pipe would be another few points. Figured as everyone does that with the header on our Corvettes it was all the same. Learn something every day. This is the stuff I need to learn BEFORE i spend the $.

ScaryFast

Keep in mind that you still have to meet the 8.7:1 lb / hp ratio in PTA. An LS2 car is pretty close, an LS3 car will put you into trouble very quickly. Which do you have?

PTA is basically spec C5Z / LS2. Cage, lighten as much as you can to maintain the above ratio, T1 bars, and Hoosiers. I'm not even sure you can fit A6's in there with the new 13 point rule. Sperkins and DH will have to chime in...

I run 275 square. Corvette guys seem terrified of any tire less than 315mm wide, but there are other options if you need 'em. The car will be a handful at the end of a 35 min race, but it's doable.

PorscheBoy

ST2 - PTA is yesterday news

ScaryFast

Stay away from power mods! They're useless in this situation. You're better off light and low HP than heavy with gobs of power.

LeMans05C6

I do have a LS2 so i still barely fall into the PTA catagory.

Scary....
You really run 275s front and rear, interesting? Would be nice that they weren't staggered so you could rotate them if necessary and all. Did you get a set of 18"s all around to do something like that?

Right now i have done minor things, of which most could be resorted back to stock at minimal cost. I have exhuast on there (i think every corvette shop probably has some stock muffles i could get from them eventually) and an intake (Halltech Venom was on it when i bought it with the sides of the shroud cut. I would have to ask the NASA guys to see if i could tape over the shrouds to seal them up for a classification situation. Stock intake wouldn't get much gain from those anyway)

With my recent fiasco with my Crank Pulley I went with an aftermarket because the stock ones were backorders nationally with no date of shipment when mine backed out of my 05. I have the one from LG right now so that may kinda screw me over anyway bang for buck to change that back to stock isn't really work the $1000 between labor and parts. Its in there so i may just have to live with it.

Haven't run longer than 20min HPDE sessions yet so a 35min race would be new.

I will be doing things like brake ducts, upgraded pads, any of the free point stuff i can slowly over time.

How much do you really have to strip your car to be in TTA? Mine is pretty much stock with everything on it. Normal Seats and all.

drivinhard

yeah. When you are riding around out there on them, it feels like 185's on 5" wide wheels, never know if you are going to be able to stop or make a turn, it's like driving a geo metro w/ 400 hp.

we run 275's on 10.5" wheels.

IMHO I'd start with your tires (those tires) as your baseline, and do whatever other mods you want beyond that, but use the 9 pts for the A6's or C91s. Nothing else you do to the car will make it as fast. I promise.

And do all the free mods. When you look through the list nothing jumps off the list as being anything significant, but it's doing 50 detailed oriented things that add up and make a difference. Ask sperkins how much faster his car has gotten with what would seemingly seem like stupid, very minor, tweaks and pieces and parts.

ScaryFast

Yeah, what DH said. You'd be surprised what adds up to speed and what adds up to a waste of money. Only strip out things that are a waste or that ad engine drag, such as air conditioning. keep in mind it's better to strip out too much and then add weidht where you want it (for example, in the back or in the passenger seat area) than to just remove weight without a plan. Also keep in mind the cage will add between 100 - 150 lbs.

This is going to sound like a Carroll Shelby book from the 1950's but you need to baseline the car and go from there. If you're not getting the most out of her with the set up you have (with A6's and a cage) then any modifications you're making are a waste of your time.

ScaryFast

He'll end up in ST2 soon. We all do...you can run fatter tires

sperkins

I'm still not convinced that a fatter tire is better. Mark did some testing this year at Roebling (same day) with 315 A6's vs 275 A6's and the times were nearly identical. I ran 295's on the same weekend thinking wider was better with the flat long sweepers, but apparently it wasn't. Our cars are pretty light so maybe it worlks better because of the less unsprung weight? Tire wear hasn't been an issue either. I've been on the same set since last December. Who knows why it does, but it just works.

flink

A wider tire is heavier, has more wind resistance, takes longer to heat up and reaches a lower peak temperature. OTOH it has somewhat more lateral grip and dissipates heat better. So no, it's not obvious that the pros will always outweigh the cons!

gmccreary

I have a stock axle-back exhaust off an 07 C6 MN6 if you're interested.