How has an Accusump worked out for you?
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
How has an Accusump worked out for you?
Was is worthwhile, or would the money have been better spent on a dry sump? I am looking for ways to prolong the life of my LS1 in an HPDE car.
#3
Drifting
During long left turns with a side load over about 1.1 Gs, the oil collects in the right side of the engine (if it is a wet sump engine) until there is no oil near the oil pump pickup. All the LS_ engines with wet sumps (LS1, LS2, LS3 and LS6) have the same problem. (The LS7, LS9, and Grand Sport LS3s have dry sumps.)
If you're using R-compound tires, then you need to protect your LS1 engine from oil starvation during high-G left turns.
Putting a dry sump onto an LS1 would be the best solution, but that would be very expensive. So you should put an accusump onto your LS1, but only if you are also using R-Compound tires.
If I'm wrong, then you might waste about 1,000 dollars for parts (and labor) you really don't need. If I'm right and the accusump keeps your engine together, you will have saved well over 10,000 dollars.
Most folks on the Forum are on my side of this argument.
If you're using R-compound tires, then you need to protect your LS1 engine from oil starvation during high-G left turns.
Putting a dry sump onto an LS1 would be the best solution, but that would be very expensive. So you should put an accusump onto your LS1, but only if you are also using R-Compound tires.
If I'm wrong, then you might waste about 1,000 dollars for parts (and labor) you really don't need. If I'm right and the accusump keeps your engine together, you will have saved well over 10,000 dollars.
Most folks on the Forum are on my side of this argument.
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Townicus (04-03-2024)
#5
Race Director
great mod. Even for pre-lubing only it is more than worth it's cost. I personally think they are great, although they certainly can't cure a serious oiling problem.
#6
Team Owner
Works great I popped my original motor from oil starvation. Second motor has been fine with the car and me a lot faster. More power and better aero. Like Tom said get a cooler also. Got my stuff from DRM.
#7
Burning Brakes
Last winter I pulled the LS1 out of my 99 and put in a new LS6 longblock and Canton Accusump. Already had the oil cooler. Accusump cost: $~500 in parts. LS6: $3300*. Labor: $0 - just me and a friend.
I can't say for sure if I have even needed it, not sure how to know if it is activated while on the track. But for the peace of mind and the pre-lube capability - for me it was $500 well spent.
*Nowadays the LS6 is just about the best bang-for-bucks deal ever. Darn cheap for 400 horsepower!
I can't say for sure if I have even needed it, not sure how to know if it is activated while on the track. But for the peace of mind and the pre-lube capability - for me it was $500 well spent.
*Nowadays the LS6 is just about the best bang-for-bucks deal ever. Darn cheap for 400 horsepower!
Last edited by argonaut; 09-09-2010 at 08:28 AM.
#10
Race Director
Being a good shopper (bought one used) I installed one in my C4 for about $250. Well worth it. I have a mechanical pressure gauge and in long corners I would watch the pressure drop to the point of being really scared. After the accusump it stays right where it should be.
#11
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I am running V710's and push the car pretty hard. Last event the oil temps approached 300 and I was consuming oil. I eventually ran it low in a turn and now the motor is junk. Its rapping and stalls, sounds like I broke a piston or a con rod. I bought another LS1 and I would rather spend a few bucks just to not have to go through the hassle of a motor swap.
#13
Drifting
A crate LS3 with 18 months of race use (approx. 50 hrs), DOT tires. Accusump does work.
Note: This is only a 6400 rpm engine (my choice).
Dry sump is the real answer but it is a balance of expense and benefit.
My new car does have a dry sump but that is because it came with one, but same old engine.
Note: This is only a 6400 rpm engine (my choice).
Dry sump is the real answer but it is a balance of expense and benefit.
My new car does have a dry sump but that is because it came with one, but same old engine.
#15
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Yorkville IL
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A crate LS3 with 18 months of race use (approx. 50 hrs), DOT tires. Accusump does work.
Note: This is only a 6400 rpm engine (my choice).
Dry sump is the real answer but it is a balance of expense and benefit.
My new car does have a dry sump but that is because it came with one, but same old engine.
Note: This is only a 6400 rpm engine (my choice).
Dry sump is the real answer but it is a balance of expense and benefit.
My new car does have a dry sump but that is because it came with one, but same old engine.
#16
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2006
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So, you are looking at the OP gauge in turns and keeping your hand near a switch?
I am running V710's and push the car pretty hard. Last event the oil temps approached 300 and I was consuming oil. I eventually ran it low in a turn and now the motor is junk. Its rapping and stalls, sounds like I broke a piston or a con rod. I bought another LS1 and I would rather spend a few bucks just to not have to go through the hassle of a motor swap.
I am running V710's and push the car pretty hard. Last event the oil temps approached 300 and I was consuming oil. I eventually ran it low in a turn and now the motor is junk. Its rapping and stalls, sounds like I broke a piston or a con rod. I bought another LS1 and I would rather spend a few bucks just to not have to go through the hassle of a motor swap.
#17
Drifting
Three failures in 2 years. One solenoid. One pressure sensor. And the last straw was when the aluminum cannister ****ing blew up and dumped oil all over the ground.
Literally, the top of the unit blew off the top.
Plus, none of the gizmos that ship with it are race car/aircraft quality. Brass NPT fittings have no place on a car.
Literally, the top of the unit blew off the top.
Plus, none of the gizmos that ship with it are race car/aircraft quality. Brass NPT fittings have no place on a car.
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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So, you are looking at the OP gauge in turns and keeping your hand near a switch?
I am running V710's and push the car pretty hard. Last event the oil temps approached 300 and I was consuming oil. I eventually ran it low in a turn and now the motor is junk. Its rapping and stalls, sounds like I broke a piston or a con rod. I bought another LS1 and I would rather spend a few bucks just to not have to go through the hassle of a motor swap.
I am running V710's and push the car pretty hard. Last event the oil temps approached 300 and I was consuming oil. I eventually ran it low in a turn and now the motor is junk. Its rapping and stalls, sounds like I broke a piston or a con rod. I bought another LS1 and I would rather spend a few bucks just to not have to go through the hassle of a motor swap.
I turn the key to accessory, let the gauges swing, the flip on the accu-sump to pre-lub the block.
Crank over the engine
The sump runs all the time, while the engine is running.
and mike is correct here
Accumulator acts like a buffer to oil pressure fluctuations.
with oil cooler never see oil temps above 245 now.
#19
Drifting
You guys do realize that a number of the T1 guys are pushing really really hard, and they're not running accusumps? If Oli can't blow up a motor without the sump, i'm pretty well convinced its not needed.