Limit rear suspension travel
#1
Burning Brakes
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Limit rear suspension travel
I am planning on moving to CCW C10 18x13 rear wheels on my Grand Sport and know that they have a small interference with the upper control arm when the car is up on a lift. So when I go to mount the wheel I cant torque down the lugs because of the interference. Is there a simple way to limit the suspension travel to prevent the interference? really don't want to go with spacers, although it looks like .25" would be enough to solve the problem.
#3
Le Mans Master
I'd run an adapter rather than a spacer.
Even though it looks like it only interfers at a certian suspension point its going to interfere at wierd places on the track.
Even though it looks like it only interfers at a certian suspension point its going to interfere at wierd places on the track.
#4
Melting Slicks
In this case he's talking about limiting droop travel and I don't think that, unless the car is flying off of a jump you will ever get to full droop in the rear, so a rebound cable will do what he needs to do.
And you do want to have the travel limited because if he ever did get to full droop with those rims on the car things would get nasty.
An elegant solution is to get a pair of shock top mounts, cut a big hole in them and offset the mounting surface about a half an inch. That would give you more jounce travel and reduce the rebound enough for what he wants to do.
And you do want to have the travel limited because if he ever did get to full droop with those rims on the car things would get nasty.
An elegant solution is to get a pair of shock top mounts, cut a big hole in them and offset the mounting surface about a half an inch. That would give you more jounce travel and reduce the rebound enough for what he wants to do.
#5
Safety Car
My brain isn't getting this one. Doesn't he need to shorten the shock to reduce droop travel? And won't spacing the shock further from the frame lengthen it? Oh, you're saying recess the mounting surface with a custom upper mount rather than space it down. Got it.
#6
Former Vendor
Our coilovers work well for this application. They are a shorter body shock and limit the amount of droop travel. I have said before a stock car has enough droop to run the baja 1000.
Randy
Randy
#7
Former Vendor
Randy
#8
Burning Brakes
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Rebond Cable
I am not so concerned about the wheel hitting the control arm under track conditions as i really doubt that the car gets that unloaded on the rear. I am mostly concerned about the hassle of mounting the wheel and not being able to torque it down while on the lift/jack stands.
How would a rebound strap be connected? A picture would be worth a few thousand words.
How would a rebound strap be connected? A picture would be worth a few thousand words.
#10
Safety Car
Take a look at an old straight axle Corvette. We've used axle straps for years (decades).
Richard Newton
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#11
Drifting
I am not so concerned about the wheel hitting the control arm under track conditions as i really doubt that the car gets that unloaded on the rear. I am mostly concerned about the hassle of mounting the wheel and not being able to torque it down while on the lift/jack stands.
How would a rebound strap be connected? A picture would be worth a few thousand words.
How would a rebound strap be connected? A picture would be worth a few thousand words.
#12
Former Vendor
Getting the wheels tight isn't the issue. That can be done on the ground with some of the weight off the car. Actually it's pretty hard to torque wheels in the air.
Can the rear wheels droop too much and cause them to rub. Yes I think at some tracks, on some corners, it's 100 percent possible to rub the control arm.
Randy
Can the rear wheels droop too much and cause them to rub. Yes I think at some tracks, on some corners, it's 100 percent possible to rub the control arm.
Randy
#13
Le Mans Master
Couple of places your suspension is unloaded:
top of the hill on the back straight VIR
The top of the hill turn 9 and 11 Road Atl
There are places at lots of other tracks where the suspension is unloaded.
Didn't even think of the rebound cable solution.
top of the hill on the back straight VIR
The top of the hill turn 9 and 11 Road Atl
There are places at lots of other tracks where the suspension is unloaded.
Didn't even think of the rebound cable solution.
#14
Here's how I did it on my e36:
It cost about six bucks, lol. Version two uses a loop and a reef knot, so it's twice as strong!
This wouldn't work at all well if there's still load on the spring at full droop - if you want to compress the spring with the strap you will need a proper nylon strap.
That piece of shock cord holds the strap away from everything so it doesn't rub in normal use.
Go hit the hardware store!
It cost about six bucks, lol. Version two uses a loop and a reef knot, so it's twice as strong!
This wouldn't work at all well if there's still load on the spring at full droop - if you want to compress the spring with the strap you will need a proper nylon strap.
That piece of shock cord holds the strap away from everything so it doesn't rub in normal use.
Go hit the hardware store!
#15
Burning Brakes
I think this is the only correct way to do this. The Hardbar/Penske coil over setup I have has about half the droop of the stock suspension.
#16
Instructor
Shock travel limiter
Hey guys I know this is an old thread but i noticed the factory upper shock travel limiter is protruding about 1/4 inch and the LPE travel limiters are recessed about a 1/2 inch. I am going to tub the vette this spring and widen some thinkspokes. I have a friend with a plasma burn table and was thinking about getting him to fab some custom uppers with about a 1" recessed upper limiter plate to accomodate longer and stiffer C6 Z06 shocks. Would 1" be too deep and put torsional stress on the shock shafts?? I understand that the C6 shocks are longer... How much depth should i go? Any positive feedback would be great. THanks guys
#17
Instructor
Custom shock limiter plate
Well i finally got these limiter plates finished and had them in for the summer and they work great, they were made with 1/4" mild steel plate and schedule 40 (2" pipe I think) .5" long flush welded. I Had a 80mp/h speed alarm (f45 shocks) shortly after install that went away and no problems since. The only modification I had to do was grind out the upper shock mounting plate hole to install the new limiters. This is what they looked like, with the welds ugly because of the need to weld on the downward face side for a flush fit, which i think worked out to about a 5/8" in less travel.