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DIY Question front alignment

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Old 10-07-2010, 08:09 PM
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GoKartman
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Default DIY Question front alignment

I'm going to do my own front camber & toe adjustments after adding coilovers & control arm bearings. I'm going to use a lift, but know that the suspension must "settle" ( rolling car back & forth) when placed back on gound before remeasuring adjustments.

Question is has anyone had experience using the Longacre Side Slip Plate/Rollers for settling the suspension instead of rolling?

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=183&catid=2

They advise to use them when corner weighting with scales, but I think they might eliminate having to roll to settle the positive camber produced by lifting the car.

Any comments or experience would be appreciated.
Old 10-07-2010, 09:28 PM
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fatbillybob
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Originally Posted by GoKartman
I'm going to do my own front camber & toe adjustments after adding coilovers & control arm bearings. I'm going to use a lift, but know that the suspension must "settle" ( rolling car back & forth) when placed back on gound before remeasuring adjustments.

Question is has anyone had experience using the Longacre Side Slip Plate/Rollers for settling the suspension instead of rolling?

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=183&catid=2

They advise to use them when corner weighting with scales, but I think they might eliminate having to roll to settle the positive camber produced by lifting the car.

Any comments or experience would be appreciated.
I have used slip plates and a lift as you suggest for years on coil over cars with no problem. With vettes it is impossible!!! You got to roll it alot like even drive around the block. It is an all day process with a vette. The problem is huge stichion in the rubber bushings especially in the connection of the springs to the LCA platform. Even the delrin height adjusting aftermarket screws don't work. I genius needs to develop a way to polish and harden the LCA platform and then have the end of the ride height adjusting screw be a bearing like a ball point pen. Come on you aftermarket guys anyone not on coilovers needs this. So slip plates are a waste of time with vettes. You even have to build a roll on platform to corner weight accurately because of this. And if you have to adjust a corner that means lifting the car up and driving it around the block yet again.
Old 10-07-2010, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fatbillybob
I have used slip plates and a lift as you suggest for years on coil over cars with no problem. With vettes it is impossible!!! You got to roll it alot like even drive around the block. It is an all day process with a vette. The problem is huge stichion in the rubber bushings especially in the connection of the springs to the LCA platform. .
But I do have coilovers and spherical control arm bearings. This should have greatly reduced stiction in the suspension .... NO???

I hate driving around, so time consuming.
Old 10-07-2010, 10:45 PM
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CorvetteZ51Racer
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What I've done (poor man's method) works well, but can be kind of nerve racking the first time or two. I jack the car up, then place 2 cinder blocks side by side under each tire. I then put two ceramic smooth-faced tiles face to face with grease between them to act as cheap slip plates. Then lower the car down on the assembly (NOTE: MUST LEVEL THE BLOCKS AND TILES WITH SHIMS - if you don't the car will start to slide on it's own). Then I bounce each corner of the car to get it to settle. It's not 100% perfect, but I've managed to get nearly perfect tire wear and contact patch temps with my Aggie alignment.

FWIW, on most race cars with a proper track-side alignment rig with slip plates, etc, they still roll the car and bounce the corners to ensure it's settled.
Old 10-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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Originally Posted by CorvetteZ51Racer
What I've done (poor man's method) works well, but can be kind of nerve racking the first time or two. I jack the car up, then place 2 cinder blocks side by side under each tire. I then put two ceramic smooth-faced tiles face to face with grease between them to act as cheap slip plates. Then lower the car down on the assembly (NOTE: MUST LEVEL THE BLOCKS AND TILES WITH SHIMS - if you don't the car will start to slide on it's own). Then I bounce each corner of the car to get it to settle. It's not 100% perfect, but I've managed to get nearly perfect tire wear and contact patch temps with my Aggie alignment.

FWIW, on most race cars with a proper track-side alignment rig with slip plates, etc, they still roll the car and bounce the corners to ensure it's settled.
I know cinder blocks are lighter and have used them many times myself but they are subject to crumbling under load and I don't use them anymore after seeing how easily they can fail.

Bill
Old 10-08-2010, 01:26 PM
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0C5stein
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Originally Posted by GoKartman
But I do have coilovers and spherical control arm bearings. This should have greatly reduced stiction in the suspension .... NO???

I hate driving around, so time consuming.
With Coil overs & SB control arms, slip plates aught to work just fine.
Old 10-08-2010, 04:19 PM
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GoKartman
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Originally Posted by C5stein
With Coil overs & SB control arms, slip plates aught to work just fine.
Mark Thanks for the info

Just ordered a set of sliders from LongAcre ..... Misty in Sales.

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