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I've been searching as well for clutches that can hold 500 ft lbs. and have very low MOI. I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Quartermaster Optimum SR single. It has a 10.4" disk with a sealed spring hub, strap drive floater plate, billet cover, and claims to have the smooth feel of the OEM LS6 unit with half the weight. It seems like such a quality piece yet it hardly gets any airtime on the forums. I believe this is what I will end up getting when I replace mine.
I've been searching as well for clutches that can hold 500 ft lbs. and have very low MOI. I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Quartermaster Optimum SR single. It has a 10.4" disk with a sealed spring hub, strap drive floater plate, billet cover, and claims to have the smooth feel of the OEM LS6 unit with half the weight. It seems like such a quality piece yet it hardly gets any airtime on the forums. I believe this is what I will end up getting when I replace mine.
So when its time to replace the clutch for you guys, you just use the oem as it came from the factory?
Originally Posted by fmcokc
I agree with these guys about the stock clutch.
For HPDE and road course work go with the lightest stock clutch you can and have it balanced. You start getting into unsprung, hard grabbing clutches and you'll be buying tranny parts.
These guys are all trying to sell you something you don't need...but that's their job
So when its time to replace the clutch for you guys, you just use the oem as it came from the factory?
Typically yes, although I do like the looks of that clutch a couple of posts back. I would like to see specs on the clamping force, disc material and flywheel.
We always like to go somewhat lighter if possible through a combo of the flywheel and clutch but not too much. Too light and you run into other problems.
For road course work, your not shocking the clutch or at least you shouldn't be. Being gentle and showing mercy to your equipment will pay dividends in the future in lower parts cost and faster lap times.
I don't believe that road racing/HPDE puts a whole lot of stress on a clutch. I've run for 3 years (40 track hours) with 500+ RWHP with the stock clutch and never had an issue. They are inexpensive and work well on the street also. I think it's the launching and speed shifting at a dragstrip that really abuses a clutch.
I've been running 550rwhp on my stock LS7 clutch for three years and probably 6-8 HPDE's. So far so good, but I feel like a few 1/4 mile passes might cook it. If it begins to show a problem I'll consider a LS9.
I agree, but do you still use oem fw or a lightweight fw?
Originally Posted by fmcokc
Typically yes, although I do like the looks of that clutch a couple of posts back. I would like to see specs on the clamping force, disc material and flywheel.
We always like to go somewhat lighter if possible through a combo of the flywheel and clutch but not too much. Too light and you run into other problems.
For road course work, your not shocking the clutch or at least you shouldn't be. Being gentle and showing mercy to your equipment will pay dividends in the future in lower parts cost and faster lap times.
...I do like the looks of that clutch a couple of posts back. I would like to see specs on the clamping force, disc material and flywheel.
I don't have specifics, however the claim is that the disc material is organic and the flywheel is a billet component. Here are a few links. One is an install article for the SINGLE disc unit and the other is a video overview of the DUAL disc unit.
04-26-2017, 05:37 AM
