0RAAMaudio

My main question here is would this be safe.

A secondary one is clearing my brakes.

I am asking here because, real racers, real drivers, hang out here

I have ran all sorts of wheels and tires on many vehicles and have some good track time experience, etc........but this one I am just not sure.

They would be on my C6 Vert(not going onto the track until it has a real roll bar which I have to build myself and none available I would use) It has a widebody with CCW 18x10.5 and 19x13 for the street already.

I am looking at some low cost, low weight, good quality wheels in 18x11 but the offset is off a bit and requires around 1/2 of spacer.

I am now running 5mm spacers and that I do not have to use but looks better as matches the rear fender flush look That still leaves the wheels hub centric, 1/2" would no longer do so. I could of course have some hub centric spacers made but those are not cheap so it plays into the cost of the package a bit, making it less attractive.

I already have the studs installed, etc.....

If this works out it would be a really nice low cost way for us all to have some nice track wheels at a lower cost but if I was actually racing this car, it would be C10, 12 or 14 CCW wheels I would run, this is just for a little fun on occasion.

The wheels in question are F14 Forgestar, 18x11 +53mm at $300 each.
My calculations show an 8 1/8" backspace, the real race wheels I am looking at are 7.5, why the spacer is needed and of course we have to check for caliper clearance.

I have C6Z calipers, SS pistons, SS lines, DBA rotors, Carbotech pads, etc......pretty nice package for my needs

I have looked at this idea a few times and keep coming back to it as a low cost way, paired with the 18x12s at the same price, way to have a decent setup for some fun but not break the bank. ( I have a dedicated race car, another major $$$eating project car, and other vehicles that all want my time, attention, and money......)

Thanks
Rick

Joy of 6

Rick,
What you're doing is ok as long as you cover the threads on the studs. If you are using closed or cap lug nuts, get open ones and make sure that the lug covers the thread and the go ahead and use the closed ones
Ed

96solo

Anyone race these wheels? Can 18x11 fronts and 18x12's rears be found?

AU N EGL

I run 18x12 fronts and 18x13 rears CCW classic

John Shiels

Did it for years .850" spacer on front. No problem it will change yur spring rates.

tstar

I'm doing it with 12/13mm spacers and ET lug nuts... I ordered hub and wheel centric spacers from Motorsport Tech. I'll go to open lug nuts when I get track wheels.

96solo

Wow! 12's CCW work on the front? I had some 11's and they would barely rub my DRM coolers. I like classics, but there's no room for bigger brakes later. Very strong wheel until you hit the wall.

I'm looking for alternatives too that don't require over $4000.

Git Er Dun

Wow I didn't know 12" work on the front of C5's... must be because of the spacers? I ran 18X12 Classics all the way around on my C4. On the C5 I had 18X11 front 18X12 rear Classics and now I have 18X11 front 18X13 rear CCW C10's with 315 front 335 rears.

trackboss

On my first race car (mustang) I had some ccw classics built with 3/4" additional backspacing. I also had john there build me some hubcentric 3/4" spacers to go with them. The idea was to allow for large caliper clearance. Raced them hard for a couple seasons then transfered them over to another race car and did the same. As long as the spacers are thick enough there is room to machine a register for both the hub and wheel which makes the spacer as safe as bolting the wheel on directly (using proper studs of course).

The Spark

I bought some 3/4" spacers from CCW. I only needed 1/2" but I wanted them to be hub centric with a "protrusion" that goes into the center hole on the wheel. To get enough meat on the protrusion they suggested going with 3/4".

I think they were only $40 each. Quality piece.

0RAAMaudio

I have run spacers like the H&R 1.5" bolt on ones when I had my C5 wheels on my C6, they were not cheap to say the least, a lot more than $40 each!!! In fact, I just remembered I still have and do not need them so should sell them to somebody that can use them

But those were on the rear, I am just apprehensive about running spacers up front more than a tiny bit wide but feeling a great deal more comfortable with the idea after some of the great posts here

Thanks
Rick

RX-Ben

Will this lower the effective spring rate b/c the lever arm is longer?

0RAAMaudio

Yes, I suppose it would but might be in the positive aspect if the springs are a bit hard.

The added front track width should help cornering ability as well but I will let the experts advise on that.

I am no expert but I know more than it may seem from this thread and I have and have read most of the best suspension books ever written, played around with this stuff for many many years, etc but always more to learn. In fact I have full scale drawings of the suspension of two cars I have setup and raced in solo and some TT work that do very well as not the right cars for the class I use that info so I can get the roll centers, etc as optimal as I can.

The very most important thing I have ever learned is that there is little new material to figure out, it has already been done, study what the best do, make any changes for your particular situation, test, adjust and test some more, get things right for your driving style or change how you drive if you should(much harder to do than setting up the car to your style in my case at least) and have fun!

Thanks
Rick

wallyman424

I did it for 3 years with no ill effects.

0RAAMaudio

I very much appreciate all the great inputs here guys, I was pretty sure it was just fine but you have been there and done it, best advice could ever receive, thanks again
Rick