PushinTheLimit

With the old stock calipers, the pedal was pretty mushy but if I pumped them up once, I typically had a good brake pedal for hard turns. I ran it this way at VIR and Road Atlanta earlier this year. Both times I used a Motive power bleeder to bleed the brakes and did not see any air bubbles when I bled them out. But I was getting bad pad taper so I figured I would go ahead and get an upgrade for the fronts. The pedal was mushy in the car when I bought it.

So I purchased some LG G-Stop Calipers for the front of my C5Z and I got them installed on the car last weekend. This time we bled the brakes the old way... my dad opening the bleed screws and me pushing the pedal. After we finished bleeding (using the pattern RR, LF, LR, RF) I checked the brake pedal and it was better, but still mushy for a brand new set of calipers and brake pads on the front.

This may sound dumb, but I know you guys can school me on this... are there more than one bleed screw on the Willwood calipers? My dad was saying there was one on the top and bottom... I always just figured there were only one.

When we bled them... we did it twice for each caliper. Is it possible we just didn't do it long enough? Or is it possible the master slave is going bad? My initial thought is we still have air in the lines somewhere and we just need to bleed them out more than what we have. I'm open for suggestions... thanks guys.

CHJ In Virginia

There are TWO bleeders on each Wilwood caliper ! One bleeder for each set of pistons. They are both on the top side of the caliper, inside and outside. ( if caliper is installed on the correct side of the car ) When bleeding do the passenger side first - outside bleeder first then the inside bleeder - repeat for drivers side. You should have a good hard pedal. Get your own Motive bleeder, it makes the job MUCH easier and quicker and a one person job. You are going to love the Wilwoods !!!

longdaddy

if you have air in the lines, you may need to alternate inner/outer bleeder screw a couple of times

PushinTheLimit

Thanks guys... I'm going to order some new bleed screws as well to make sure that's not a problem either and get some more fluid and rebleed them again. Hopefully I'll get the pedal feel that I should and not mushy anymore.

gkmccready

If you still don't like the feel I bet a DRM master cylinder helps firm up the feel. My Wilwood SL6Rs didn't need a new master for a good feel (with stock C6 Z51 rears).

geerookie

, but I'm running SL4R's in the rear.
About mid season the year before my pedal starting getting soft and I would bleed then it would be kind of better but then feel soft before I even got out on track.
Replaced the master cylinder and it was all better! Make sure when you bench bleed the master you tilt it so the part that mounts to the booster is higher. Otherwise you will trap air in the back of the master and your rear brakes will never get full pressure