USA1C5

You have to remove the caliper to replace the one piece pad anyway. So no need to remove the pins. I use the one piece pads but I do put anti-seize on my pins so they come out with no problems but like I say with one piece pads no need to remove the pins.

68sixspeed

I can confirm as I got a set in last week, the hawk 1pc pads do have the holes in them. (both the HP+ and DTC70 I got from KNS Brakes)

Hollywood Extra

I just went through this last weekend.

At my last track day I had a rear guide pin back out. It messed up the back of my wheel and stripped one side of the threads on it's way out. Ironically, the other 27 pins are seized to the point of not being able to be removed with hand tools. It is a 2006 Z06 with 59k miles and 20ish track days. I pay close attention to the pads, rotors, and fluid but have never rebuilt the calipers or changed the guide pins.

1 down, 27 to go.

After reading forum posts like this, I went out and bought 1/2" drive impact Allen head sockets. With my pneumatic impact wrench about half of the guide pins broke loose and zipped right out. I left the calipers bolted to the car for this first attempt. For the other half, my impact 6mm Allen head rounded out the hole in the guide pin. I was planning to replace all of them, so this wasn't a big deal to me and I didn't take much care to keep this from happening.

15 down, 13 to go.

I then removed the calipers from the car, turned them on their side, and filled up the cavity at the top of the guide pin with WD40. I let them sit for a couple hours and then hammered a 1/4" Allen head impact socket into the rounded out hole in the guide pin. The impact wrench broke all but two of the remaining guide pins loose. Those stubborn two rounded out the hole again.

26 down, 2 to go.

More WD40, more time, and this time I hammered a 7mm Allen head impact socket into the rounded out hole. One came loose, one didn't budge.

27 down, 1 to go.

More WD40, more time, but this time I decided to try an easy out. I drilled the hole, threaded in the easy out, aaaand snapped it off in the hole. Now I had a hardened bit that I couldn't get out and I couldn't drill. I turned the caliper around and attacked the guide pin from the inside through the hole for the opposite guide pin. I first drilled a hole, cut 1/4" x 20 threads, and screwed a Grade 8 bolt into the end of the guide pin. I got a wrench on the bolt and snapped the head off. I now had a hardened piece of steel in both ends of the guide pin, so no more drilling. Next I took a 11mm 3/8" drive impact socket and and lined it up on the inside of the guide pin. I put a 3/8" extension through the opposite guide pin hole and hammered the 11mm socket on the guide pin deforming it to a now 6-sided pin. This time the impact wrench broke it loose! It was a pain to get the socket off the pin, but I finally got all the pins out!

28 down, 0 to go.

I now have everything apart and have ordered all my parts for the caliper rebuilds.

, Nick

k24556

one possible way to remove a pin from C6Z or GS calipers is to weld a 1/2" washer to the face of the pin, then weld a nut to the washer. Then use the nut with a wrench. the washer would protect the aluminum caliper.

I haven't used that technique for a caliper but have for similar problems. PM me and we will see if we can help out

Cyclone09Z06

Bill I have been running the DTC70's on stock C6Z06 calipers for a couple of years now due to the lower cost. I have tried all brands and found that they are all about the same, I pretty much burn em up in two track days at Sebring. They do have holes and I run all pins, I do have to change the floating sleeves on a couple of pins every now and then as they mushroom and slide over the pin as you apply brakes. I have several videos posted where you can hear the pin sleeve hitting the rotor and squealing like a stuck pig lol. If you ever need to remove the pins the best way is at the track after a session when super hot they will come right out. I run blue lock tight on mine so they don't back out and ruin a wheel. they still come right out when caliper is super hot after a session,, I break them loose before heading home when needed

Bill Dearborn

The original post was from several years ago. I resolved all of those issues by installing Wilwood W6A calipers in front and Wilwood W4A calipers in the rear. Pads are easily swappable and the same pad shape works for both front and rear. Calipers are easier to remove to swap rotors and since I went with the kit that allows me to use stock C6Z06 rotors I have a selection of stock, aftermarket stock type and Wilwood rotors to choose from. Much simpler than playing around with the stock C6Z calipers and all of the issues with the pins freezing and then backing out when they get hot while on track. Almost ruined one of my LG World Challenge Wheels due to a frozen pin backing out once the the caliper got hot.

Bill

mikeCsix

Excellent thread, one point to consider and that is using WD-40 to help break the caliper bolts loose. There is a better product on the market called Aero-Kroil. The trick is not being in a hurry and having the time to let it sit long enough.

My experience with it was on a 35 foot sailboat. I needed to remove a 1/4-20 bolt that was in an aluminum mast for 10+ years. The boat was always in salt water so the bolt was solidly corroded in place. I put a wrench on it and you could see it flexing when torque was applied. I soaked it in Aero-Kroil and let it sit for a weekend. Came back the next week and did it again. The third attempt was a charm, as I torqued it I could detect thread movement and managed to back the bolt out.