gtb75

I've decided that a tow rig is in my future... That being said, I'm trying to figure out the best way to do it. Part of my issue is I want to be able to live in whatever rig I get once I get to the track. I'm up at the track 6-8 times a year for both HPDE's and public race events, so taking my car with me for both and having a place to stay is something I'd like to be able to do. That means a simple tow rig like a pickup and open trailer won't fulfill both of my requirements... Here are the options I've come up with so far:

• Get a small motorized RV (probably class C) and an open trailer (to keep the weight down). My only concern here is I've heard that RV's don't tow well and I can't use my tow vehicle (the RV) for anything else but a "house on wheels".
• Get a trailer like a Forest River Work and Play LK or SK series (24'-28' tag trailer) and a 2500/3500 diesel pickup. Does anybody know of any other manufacturers who offer a similar trailer to the Work and Play line - here's a link: http://www.forestriverinc.com/nd/def...source=summary

As much as I'd love a full toter/stacker setup I wouldn't use it enough to justify the cost and don't want to drive something that huge. That being said, what ideas have you guys come up with for a reasonably priced/sized tow rig with living quarters?

AU N EGL

OK for an enclosed car hauler you need at least 24 feet of deck space. 28 feet or more is ideal just for the car and junk. THEN 12" of living

so that is 40- 42 foot minimum ie a goose neck

and triple 5000 or 6000 axles.

Which means a 3500 Ford Or Chevy diesel dolly tow with


Look at

Pace Trailers http://www.paceamerican.com/
haulmark http://www.haulmark.com/

and good used trailers here

Get a good 28' enclosed with air conditioning and heat. Bring folding chairs, folding table a small grill to use out side. And sleeping bags. Big ice chests / cooler

Race tracks have bathrooms and showers. Some even good showers, or relatively good showers

Good luck

clubracer6

I've been looking into the same thing and have concluded that a good class c and a open trailer is best for my budget. Hopefully, I will end up with a e450 V10 based motorhome.

Given we live in the flat lands of the midwest, I think they will tow just fine.

davidfarmer

having access to the RV during motion is a huge plus. A trailer living quarters isn't practical. However, if owning an RV isn't practical for you, maybe you should just "camp" in your trailer when necessary, as I do. I have limited insulation and a roof AC/Heat unit, and I just pull out the inflatable bed when it's needed. Plus you can get away without paying to camp in most cases (ignorance is bliss)

Jason

We have 8' of living space walled off in the front of our 28' trailer and love it. Window AC or a space heater is all it takes to make it heaven in the paddock.

bb69

I tow a 40' gooseneck Haulmark trailer with my 2003 Dodge 2500 diesel. It's a short bed truck so I had to special order the trailer with the front 2' of boxed in area missing so the trailer won't hit the truck. Even with that space missing there is enough space on the gooseneck for a queen size mattress. That's where I sleep at track events.

I bring a cooler and a portable grill and I'm good to go. The trailer has 50AMP service, so I can plug in at a lot of places and have 110V overhead lights and outlets for whatever you may need. When I can't plug in, I have 12V overhead lights and a generator if I really need power.

The trailer was $15k brand new, and includes the following:

-extra foot of height (makes it feel much bigger)
-50AMP service
-two spare tire wells built into the floor (useless for spare tires since you would have to unload everything to get to the tire)
-three windows
-RV style locks on the doors
-escape door on the road side
-2 halogen lights on the curb side
-a couple 110V outlets
-all LED marker/brake lights

My truck pulls the trailer very well, but I did add some airbags ($250). Power is never an issue and the trailer brakes will stop the whole thing including the truck. I manage 10.5-11 MPG pulling at 70MPH.

If I were to do it again, I would add the electric or hydraulic landing gear. Not only does that eliminate all the hand cranking when hooking up, but it gives you onboard 12V power. I would eliminate the escape door because it's useless. I would also get a 44'. I can fit two cars in the trailer, but just barely and then I don't have much room for other stuff. Overall, I am very happy with the setup.

Ken

Bill Dearborn

Why do you say it is useless? I thought it was supposed to make it easier getting into and out of the car??

Bill

Z11409

http://www.a1warriortrailers.com/

GatewayShepherd

Here is another idea. My FIL has a custom tow unit that was built out of like a dump truck size chasis or similar to a large U-haul cab with a living quarters in the middle and a 5th wheel attachment on back. It then pulls the large car hauler behind it. Similar to this picture. The tractor unit is similar design to this but just behind the standard cab begins a sleep unit with cab over bed, kitchen and bathroom, then begins the back 5th wheel attachment.



If you want an actual picture of it I can go over and get one for you. It's quite the slick idea, as you can unhook the tractor part and drive it around.

flink

I've spent quite some time looking into this. Result: depression.

Living quarters in the trailer: no good because it's only useful for track days.

Cabover camper: no good because the front seats aren't part of the living space, which is a big waste of space.

Motorhomes: they all basically put as much motorhome as possible onto the smallest possible platform. Net result: little towing capacity left over.

A viable option is to get a class A or class C then switch to an open trailer. If you can get the towed weight under 5000 then plenty of options open up. They are apparently pretty ghastly to drive, and the lower windage profile and weight of the open trailer will help there. All the tools, spares, wheels, etc would need to go into the RV, which sucks.

One standout is the higher-end class B RV's. A 19ft Roadtrek has an official towing capacity of a little over 8000 lbs. That's a lot, and I expect they will pull an enclosed trailer pretty comfortably, with acceptable fuel consumption.

Sometime I'll go to a local RV repair/service place and talk with them about buying a class A or C and getting them to upgrade the rear framework and hitch to pull the enclosed trailer. But I fear that the result will be a pig on the road.

If I had the parking space I'd go for an old diesel pusher and just swallow the gas consumption. But I'm in the burbs and have a 25 ft parking spot

Take a look around at the track, see what other guys are doing, talk to them about how well it worked out. Lots of guys around here went with the "old 30 foot class C and an open trailer" approach.

gtb75

Wow - thanks for the great information so far guys! A few questions:

• AU N EGL: Would the occasional "weekend warrior" like me really need 24' of deck space? I figure the car is about 15' long and even with a set of tires, I could probably make do with 18' of space - then just throw a few toolboxes in the LQ area. I know more is better, but I'm trying to keep the overall length of the combo somewhat reasonable. I know Pace, Haulmark, and Racing Junk - which is just evil
  
• clubracer6: Ford V10 or GM 8.1L was what I was looking at if I go RV... I'd love a diesel, but can't justify the additional cost for the amount I'd use it and, like you said, don't really need it around here (where everything is flat).
  
• davidfarmer: I can do an RV (I have a company car as a daily driver), but figured I'd get more use out of a pickup.
  
• Z11409: Do those trailers have enough room to carry a car? They look like normal toy haulers to me (more for bikes and quads).
  
• GatewayShepherd: Beautiful rig, but more than I'm thinking for my needs.
  
• Everybody else who just "camps" in an enclosed trailer: I had considered that, but I believe there is a tax benefit of a "RV style" trailer with built in facilities - something about it being considered a second residence. Does that sound right?

Again, I really appreciate the feedback so far!

AU N EGL

24' of deck is minimum. plus 24' trailers can have twin 5000# axles which you need. I have twin 3500# axles, and is just barely enough.

also a "car hauler package" has the lowered deck and ramp to drive into. Plus resale value

smaller trailer have less axle capacity.

and you need the diesel tow vehicle

and the only works if 80% of the vehicle or trailer is for living facilities.

1991Z07

We started out with a low-end Class "A" diesel pusher with a Cummings turbo in it. The other half hated the fleabag hotels and hated sitting in a hot Suburban even more during the day @ the track and autocrosses.

SHE decided we needed a bus

We've since upgraded to a 42' American Coach Eagle. Best thing we ever did was get a rig. You can't believe how nice it is to get into the A/C and cool down, eat, relax on the bed...sleep in an extra hour in the morning because you are already @ the track

Our Eagle has a 550 HP CAT, pulling 1150 lb/ft. Anything short of a 28' stacker and it doesn't even know it's behind you. Mileage is sitting around 10 mpg, but we only have 38k miles on it...those CATs don't loosen up until nearly 100k miles. Rig alone weighs 34k lbs. & goes from zero to 65 in the length of a entry ramp EASY!

A motorhome qualifies as a second home. You can get a "mortgage" on it. The only thing I'd trade it for is a Prevost chassis...but I'd have to hit the lotto BIG for that to happen. Low end on a Prevost is about $750k Most of them are at least $1 million.

gtb75

So it sounds like going the coach/RV route and pulling a smaller trailer might be a better option. Part of my concern for going the diesel pusher route is driving the thing. Funny that I'm fine winding out my Z06 to 160+ at the track, but I'm afraid of driving a bus! I have no experience driving a rig that size... How did you learn - CDL training?

As for something on a Prevost chassis, I sold the owner of this broker/dealer a motorcycle a few years back: http://www.philcooper.com/

If I did decide to go coach/RV route, would you recommend something like this to handle the tounge weight: http://www.trailertoad.com/

Thanks again for the input guys!

95jersey

Just a total different opinion, take no offense....

You have enough money to buy an RV and trailer, but don't want to fork out the $100 for one or two nights at the local hotel (warm, tv, AC, bathroom you don't have to clean up, fresh towels, maybe a resturant, electricity). I guess if you like the outdoors, that is one thing, but I can't see camping actually being cheaper than renting a hotel room for the night.

Also, lots of these tracks don't allow camping, so what then? At NJMP not only do you have to pay a fee, but the club renting the track has to purchase "overnight security" as an example.

I have an Frame based SUV (ASPEN) that I use everyday as a regular vehicle and a $2000 open trailer I found on e-bay. I didn't go pickup truck, because outside of towing and hauling things, they are useless, you can't fit more than 4 or 5 people in them (that is with extended cab). I can fit 7 people in my SUV comfortably and go to dinners or events with the family in one vehicle (mom, dad, kids, grandparents), you just can't do that with a pickup truck. Also wife wasn't going to drive a pickup.

Save your cash and get a nice used SUV and open cheap trailer (shorter the better as it will save weight and fuel economy). You don't need anything longer than 18'. I have a 16' and my C6Z fits perfectly with room to spare and is easier to manuever than an 18'.

Do you know how much money in fuel you will spend in a Class C towing 5000lbs+ ??? For your 6-8 events, just in fuel, you could have stayed in the local Ritz 10 times over. Dude you really got to think through this one.

If I had enough money to buy a Class C, I would sell my C6Z, use that money, and buy a real up to date world challenge Corvette...screw how classy you get it there! But that is me. For the first 6 years I did HPDE I bought a $40k C5Z06 and with the rest of the money bought a $1000 Ford Escort. I drove that thing to work and back every day with a smile on my face knowing a 400hp Z06 was sitting in my garage for the weekend and track days!! It blows my mind when I see these tow vehicles and enclosed rigs that cost a fortune and out comes some Miata or mustang or some $10k track car...like WTF is that all about?

John Shiels

8 events hotel for 800-1200. You couldn't pay the insurance on a rig.

bb69

On my trailer the door ends up being right over the axles, so the wheelwell is in the way. If you move the door further forward, you have the car WAY too far into the trailer. Move it backward and the tail of the car is hanging out of the trailer.

As for the hotel idea, I can't say it's a bad idea. However, it really comes down to your type of personality and whether or not you find a big trailer and truck or a motorhome to be useful. I couldn't live without a truck anymore, and I won't be buying a heavy duty truck without a diesel. EVER. It seems a bunch of guys go through this and many come to the same conclusion:

Step 1. Open trailer. Then it rains and all their stuff gets wet or they buy a track car without windows and then have to figure out how to keep their seat dry. They also have no where to go when it rains at the track except their buddies enclosed trailer. They load up their car in the rain and get soaked.

Step 2. Enclosed trailer with same half ton truck. They get a 20' or 24' enclosed because the half ton truck won't tow anymore. Lovin' life when it rains. Hatin' life when they are getting 6-9 MPG and the truck is constantly downshifting when the wind blows or the road isn't perfectly flat. Can't tow at 70MPH with their buddies driving diesels.

Step 3. Buy a diesel. Life is great. Start to realize that the 24' trailer really isn't big enough. With spare tires/wheels, toolbox, chairs, cooler, some spart parts, generator, etc you have to pack things in pretty good to make that small trailer work. You now have trailer envy.

Step 4. At this point you end up with a massive enclosed trailer.......

the scenario continues until you run out of money or your wife puts her foot down. I'm currently looking at getting a semi truck because used ones are dirt cheap. I saw a complete semi-truck and trailer sell for $10k. I could put lots of cars in that.


The point is to be realistic about your WANTS, not your needs because if you don't buy what you WANT, you will probably buy more than once.

Ken

1991Z07

I guess it depends on what you have, and what you want.

I have:

Shower
A/C
Heat
Power
Full Kitchen
My OWN Tempur-pedic bed (no bed-bugs here)
Satellite TV (2 inside, 1 outside)
All of MY stuff inside

And when I'm driving, if I get tired I pull into any WalMart or rest stop and fire up the generator, crank down the A/C and sleep until morning.

We use it for a lot of other things too...lots of vacations and it works pretty well as a spare room when we have lots of company (2 beds, 1 queen and one king). I put a 220v 50A outlet on the front of the beach house and we can park it down there when we have a lot of people and not enough beds.

For tracks who won't allow you to camp? Leave your trailer inside and park the rig outside the track. Although WE don't have those issues down here in the South. TWS, Hallett, TMS, Heartland Park...they all let us stay there after track time is done. I guess you could look at it that WE are the security. They lock the gates behind us and unlock them in the morning.

A rig is something you want. It isn't "essential" but sure is NICE when it's raining, or 102 in the shade and YOU have a place that is warm & dry or COLD. They aren't for everyone. It IS a big expense. But it is a HOUSE on wheels...nice to have with you when you want it. I can go 1000 miles on 1 tank, so I can basically get to an event and back without fueling up. When I DO fill up it hurts the Shell card...100 gallons of diesel costs a lot. But $350-$400/weekend in fuel plus food is worth it TO ME.

I've never seen that TrailerToad before...makes sense to me AND gives you a little more room to turn sharper if needed without the trailer hitting the rig. When the time comes for a bigger trailer I'll keep that in mind.

Class A/C rigs need no special license...and they are as different as people are. Our old bus would get blown around in a crosswind, but the Eagle is steady as a rock. I suppose 10k extra pounds will do that for 'ya.

gtb75

Looks like I've stirred up some good discussion - and I appreciate everybody's input. My thoughts:

• 95jersey: That's what I've been doing up to this point - staying at nice hotels. Beyond the track/race aspect of it, I also like to camp... The problem this year is I'm now the last of my group in a tent, so the RV thing is something I've been looking at anyway. Is it more expensive than hotel stays (no matter what you get) - oh heck yeah. That being said, if I'm going to do it at all, I want to be able to have the car and the living quarters at the same event - hence either a RV or LQ enclosed trailer.
  
• bb69: That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid! Hence me researching it for at least a year (won't buy anything until next year) and getting input from people like you guys
  
• 1991Z07: The aspect of having something "NICE" at the track (and out of the weather) is definitely one of the selling points of doing this for me. A pop-up gives you portable shelter, but it's no substitute for four walls, AC/heat, and your own facilities. That being said, I'm a single guy, so I can get what I want (within reason) - but I don't need a monster coach since it's just me. The question is, does a diesel pusher pull that much better than a V10 or 502 equipped Class C? Again, I'm thinking an open trailer if I go the RV route - so probably around 5000 lbs... I'd only go enclosed if I did a LQ trailer. I love the Dynamax coaches, but they're big money - even used.

I will say that I'm definitely not made of money... I can't afford a six-figure rig - nor would I need it for just me. That being said, I've seen some nice used Cat powered diesel pushers for $30k-$40k - so less than a new 2500 pickup. I've also seen some nice used V10/502 powered Class C's for $15k-$25k. What has me even considering the RV route are the prices in this economy. The utility aspect of a pickup is appealing, but the reality is it would pretty much only be used for towing - hence the RV idea. It also sounds like, from a write-off standpoint (I realize it's still a loss), the RV might be a better choice than the LQ trailer.

That all being said, keep the feedback coming... I'm sure some of you guys have been doing this for years, so any input you have is hugely helpful!

vettehardt

Two years ago, my dad picked up an older ('92) 38' class A deisel pusher (8.6L cummings) for just over $20k. Cheapest tow vehicle you can get. Tows the 24' enclosed trailer just fine even without a brake controller. It does need a little more grunt to get up hills, but we are thinking of putting a bigger turbo on it. There are good deals out there, especially in Florida (where my dad bought his) and Arizona.





Dad has actually found with an enclosed trailer behind the motor home, he gets better mileage than with out the trailer. He also gets better mileage with the motor home than using the 01 Suburban to tow the enclosed trailer.