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question re: installing an Accusump

Old 04-12-2011, 04:05 PM
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Dirk Miller
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Default question re: installing an Accusump

I can’t start my car to feel for a temp. delta on the lines, so I need to ask which one of these lines is the return to the engine ? 2 years ago I installed a C6 Z06 oil cooler to bring down oil temps on my C6. The car has been on jack stands for the past 4 months and I now want to connect an accusump on the return line.

photo can be seen by going to:
http://s1111.photobucket.com/albums/h465/DirkMiller1/

Someone out there will know for sure how to identify the two?
Old 04-12-2011, 04:07 PM
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RAFTRACER
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The line that returns to the block rearmost is the return from the cooler....
Old 04-12-2011, 04:54 PM
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argonaut
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There is an alternative to plumming the accusump line into the area of the oil filter port. There is an another oil port on the front drivers side of the block (at least on the LS 1 or 6) - many of us have used it instead. It takes a M16x1.5 to AN adapter (I used AN -10). At summit racing the part number is EAR-9919FFJERL.

I don't know if this applies to the LS2, 3 and 7 though.
Old 04-12-2011, 09:06 PM
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vette6aut0x
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Originally Posted by argonaut
There is an alternative to plumming the accusump line into the area of the oil filter port. There is an another oil port on the front drivers side of the block (at least on the LS 1 or 6) - many of us have used it instead. It takes a M16x1.5 to AN adapter (I used AN -10). At summit racing the part number is EAR-9919FFJERL.

I don't know if this applies to the LS2, 3 and 7 though.
Yes this does apply.
Old 04-13-2011, 01:33 AM
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Dirk Miller
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Default picture of location?

[QUOTE=argonaut;1577324976]There is an alternative to plumming the accusump line into the area of the oil filter port. There is an another oil port on the front drivers side of the block (at least on the LS 1 or 6) - many of us have used it instead. It takes a M16x1.5 to AN adapter (I used AN -10). At summit racing the part number is EAR-9919FFJERL.

I don't know if this applies to the LS2, 3 and 7 though.[/QU

This could be worth it. Does anyone have a picture of this port?
Old 04-13-2011, 02:28 AM
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96solo
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I'm interested too!
Old 04-13-2011, 08:20 AM
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ssdeuce
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http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/accusump.pdf
Old 04-13-2011, 08:22 AM
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argonaut
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From David Farmer's most excellent site, accusump install using the front oil port: http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/accusump.pdf

Edit: oops, ssdeuce is quicker than me.
Old 04-13-2011, 10:58 AM
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ssdeuce
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Originally Posted by argonaut
From David Farmer's most excellent site, accusump install using the front oil port: http://www.davidfarmerstuff.com/accusump.pdf

Edit: oops, ssdeuce is quicker than me.
Yes David's site is a great help and he has always answered my questions

I have a question about installing an accusump using the front oil port. If you already have an oil cooler and add this will oil pressure be affected or does the accusump help keep the pressure up?
Old 04-13-2011, 11:18 AM
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RAFTRACER
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Originally Posted by argonaut
There is an alternative to plumming the accusump line into the area of the oil filter port. There is an another oil port on the front drivers side of the block (at least on the LS 1 or 6) - many of us have used it instead. It takes a M16x1.5 to AN adapter (I used AN -10). At summit racing the part number is EAR-9919FFJERL.

I don't know if this applies to the LS2, 3 and 7 though.
Way better off when plumbing an accusump into the retrun line from the cooler than the above mentioned port. If the engine needs oil the accusump has to discharge through the block, filter, oil cooler and THEN to the engine bearings and there are precious milliseconds when the engine needs oil.....additionally the oil into the accusump will be UN-filter potentially hurting accusump sealing and if heaven forbid an engine issue all of that material will be in your accusump. Additionally plumbing an accusump into that location will not allow you to have a check valve which is also a good idea.

Plumbing it right isn't the easiest way or cheapest....
Old 04-13-2011, 12:23 PM
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argonaut
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
Way better off when plumbing an accusump into the retrun line from the cooler than the above mentioned port. If the engine needs oil the accusump has to discharge through the block, filter, oil cooler and THEN to the engine bearings and there are precious milliseconds when the engine needs oil.....additionally the oil into the accusump will be UN-filter potentially hurting accusump sealing and if heaven forbid an engine issue all of that material will be in your accusump. Additionally plumbing an accusump into that location will not allow you to have a check valve which is also a good idea.

Plumbing it right isn't the easiest way or cheapest....
Errr...now you tell me. Wish I'd known that a year ago. At the time, just about everything I saw when searching said to use the front port.

Note to ssdeuce - I replaced my LS1 (with horrible oil pressure) with a LS6 at the same time I did the accusump. So I can't compare before and after pressures. I will say that pressure never seems to be a problem though. 40PSI cold. 30 - 35 at hot idle. Up to 50 or 60 at high RPM.
Old 04-13-2011, 09:00 PM
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RAFTRACER is correct. Another tip is that a filter with anti-drainback valve must be used for everything to work best. Otherwise the oil from the accusump could go backward.
Using the port at the front of the block taps into the oil galley, but allows the oil to go in two directions. Going back to the pump does nothing to save the motor. IMO, there are two ways to do it. The oil cooler return line with a tee and one way valve, as RAFTRACER mentioned, is one. If no oil cooler is used then simply use one of the oil cooler adapters and connect the hose from the accusump to the rear port. Plug the front "out" port. In both cases use anti drainback filter. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, the way the ports above the filter are done oil can still go back towards the pump, but it's best to eliminate as many ways as possible. Also, I think there is a port above the sending unit with a plug. If that goes into the oil galley coming from the center of the filter it would be the best way to do it, but I have not looked into that.

Last edited by trackboss; 04-13-2011 at 09:10 PM.
Old 04-14-2011, 07:41 PM
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Dirk Miller
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After reviewing oil flow directions, I too agree that teeing into the return line of my oil cooler is the best way to go. Thanks for the input.
Before I purchase my entire kit to plumb this, I see that I do have a few choices. Maybe you could chime in on the best set point that I should go with when it comes to the solenoid . Canton offers their Pressure Control Valve Upgrade EPC Conversion Kits with a few set point choices. I am only interested in either: A) solenoid with the 35-40 PSI kit or B) their 20 -25 PSI kit.
I see where the set point shows 37 psi on the body of solenoid A and I am leaning toward using this one I. Does this line up with your understanding of set points?
Old 04-14-2011, 08:17 PM
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trackboss
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go with the 20psi one. The whole idea of having an electric valve with a psi switch is to dump the contents of the accusump at full pressure when it is needed. The motor works fine with 30psi so there is no need to dump oil in there unless the pressure gets really low. Using the higher psi switch will keep the accusump open all the time so it will just act as extra capacity and not push oil into the motor very well when needed. If you don't use the low pressure switch you are better off using a manual valve. It probably flows better and is less complicated in every way.
Old 04-14-2011, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
Way better off when plumbing an accusump into the retrun line from the cooler than the above mentioned port. If the engine needs oil the accusump has to discharge through the block, filter, oil cooler and THEN to the engine bearings and there are precious milliseconds when the engine needs oil.....additionally the oil into the accusump will be UN-filter potentially hurting accusump sealing and if heaven forbid an engine issue all of that material will be in your accusump. Additionally plumbing an accusump into that location will not allow you to have a check valve which is also a good idea.

Plumbing it right isn't the easiest way or cheapest....
This is how Danny plumbed my C6..........

Old 04-14-2011, 10:00 PM
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I looked over an oil flow schematic and I have one question. Does anyone know if all oil goes through what is normally the oil temp sending unit? If so then my suggestion about using an adapter and plugging the front fitting to only use the rear for accusump would not work. On the other hand, if there is another way for oil to get through there then not all oil is being directed towards the oil cooler.
Old 04-14-2011, 10:25 PM
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I disagree on the plumbing issue.... It's not just about feeding the engine, it's about re-priming the dry pump, and all of the non-pressurized lines until proper oil flow is returned.

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To question re: installing an Accusump

Old 04-15-2011, 01:58 AM
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Dirk Miller
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Does this set up include a check valve? If it does, where is it? Without seeing one in this photo, I would guess the location would be where the return line to the engine exits the oil cooler. ??
Old 04-15-2011, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Dirk Miller
Does this set up include a check valve? If it does, where is it? Without seeing one in this photo, I would guess the location would be where the return line to the engine exits the oil cooler. ??

The check valve is not in the photo , but is located in between the engine block and the engine mount in the retrun line from the cooler.

The accusump t's into the cooler block from the top right behind the wiring harness into the cooler block.

Thanks Len for posting that picture...that clutch in that picture sure looks heavy
Old 04-11-2013, 11:24 PM
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Is there not a plug for the main oil galley we can use and save a lot of headache?

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