high lift cam for road racing?
#1
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high lift cam for road racing?
Hey guys, I'm in the market for a C6Z as a weekend/track car. I found a local selling a 08 with a RR lethal cam installed which is a .660 lift cam. I love the raw power of the car but I'm concerned that a high lift cam isn't the most reliable setup for the track. I know a big cam can be torture on the valvetrain so I'm sure I'll have to replace the springs every year. What other problems should I expect? Would I be better off with a stock car?
#2
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Problems? hmmm
Unfortunate we see more then one or two cars have engines blow up. Most are do to oiling issues then cams that have lifts over .600
yes you would be better off with a Stock car , or even a Stock C6Z06 with the proper dry sump tank
Moded cars can be other ppls head acks and why they are selling them
Unfortunate we see more then one or two cars have engines blow up. Most are do to oiling issues then cams that have lifts over .600
yes you would be better off with a Stock car , or even a Stock C6Z06 with the proper dry sump tank
Moded cars can be other ppls head acks and why they are selling them
#3
Le Mans Master
My humble opinion is that you don't NEED a cam, or more horsepower. A C6 Z06 has more horsepower than most drivers can efficiently utilize stock. You need:
A) safety equipment (firesuit, helmet, race seat, harness)
B) race pads and fluid (DT70 or PFC-01 and SRF fluid)
C) tires (and LOTS of them.........Hoosier A6)
D) Seat time.........and actually this is the first item after safety equipment
When you can finally beat Jan Magnussen, THEN you can look for a torquer type of camshaft, like Katech Torquer. The leathel cam is more for drag racing.
A) safety equipment (firesuit, helmet, race seat, harness)
B) race pads and fluid (DT70 or PFC-01 and SRF fluid)
C) tires (and LOTS of them.........Hoosier A6)
D) Seat time.........and actually this is the first item after safety equipment
When you can finally beat Jan Magnussen, THEN you can look for a torquer type of camshaft, like Katech Torquer. The leathel cam is more for drag racing.
Last edited by 63Corvette; 06-25-2011 at 05:48 PM.
#5
Team Owner
good luck with that much lift!
I am not an engine builder by the farthest dream just going on what I hear. My LS6 is a bit over 600 but not near 660.
Everyone likes power but if you lunch bag the motor are you ready for the money pains? You do have a good amount of power and if I wasn't beating the other cars on track with the same power other mods may be better first like slicks or brakes or suspension or safety equipment it hurts when you hit even if only briefly.
Someone who builds motors could set you straight on reliability better than me.
Your car has gobs of HP and TQ it is getting it to the ground the fastest and first is what makes you fast. JMHO as said above also!
I dump my springs fairly fast but even that is no guaranty it won't happen. I had a new set in and one didn't last long but I heard it in time and shut down.
I am not an engine builder by the farthest dream just going on what I hear. My LS6 is a bit over 600 but not near 660.
Everyone likes power but if you lunch bag the motor are you ready for the money pains? You do have a good amount of power and if I wasn't beating the other cars on track with the same power other mods may be better first like slicks or brakes or suspension or safety equipment it hurts when you hit even if only briefly.
Someone who builds motors could set you straight on reliability better than me.
Your car has gobs of HP and TQ it is getting it to the ground the fastest and first is what makes you fast. JMHO as said above also!
I dump my springs fairly fast but even that is no guaranty it won't happen. I had a new set in and one didn't last long but I heard it in time and shut down.
Last edited by John Shiels; 06-25-2011 at 06:38 PM.
#6
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St. Jude Vendor Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11
Hi,
Just change the cam and springs with a good road race cam. You won't give up much power, just move the torque curve around and lower your shift point.
call Anthony or Bobby and get one of our Road race cams, springs and a set of G1 Sway bars and have at it.
The last clean fun left in America!!
Thanks
LG
Just change the cam and springs with a good road race cam. You won't give up much power, just move the torque curve around and lower your shift point.
call Anthony or Bobby and get one of our Road race cams, springs and a set of G1 Sway bars and have at it.
The last clean fun left in America!!
Thanks
LG
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#7
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Thanks for the replies,
Just to clarify, this isn't my car, the owner is a friend of a friend who is ready to sell. I'm ready to pull the trigger on a stock Z but it's awfully tempting to get a cammed one for the same price
I'm no stranger to track days, I know tires and brakes are more important than power. I use to do 8 to 10 track days a year but I'm only planning to track it 3 or 4 times a year. The extra power would be nice on the street however.
Just to clarify, this isn't my car, the owner is a friend of a friend who is ready to sell. I'm ready to pull the trigger on a stock Z but it's awfully tempting to get a cammed one for the same price
I'm no stranger to track days, I know tires and brakes are more important than power. I use to do 8 to 10 track days a year but I'm only planning to track it 3 or 4 times a year. The extra power would be nice on the street however.
#8
Probably thinking about cheese or something.
#9
Melting Slicks
I would say...
hell no.
I ran the LPE GT-19 ( .678/.688) cam for 10K miles and 10 track hrs along with some very good components. ( CH rockers, pro magum 3/8 pushrods, morrel link bars)
Here is what I recently pulled out of the motor.
I am now way under .650 lift cam with the same high quality components left over.
Springs ( ferrea) were only down 5% from stock specs.
High lift in road race conditions is one of the plauseable causes. Here are the rest...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-failure.html
I ran the LPE GT-19 ( .678/.688) cam for 10K miles and 10 track hrs along with some very good components. ( CH rockers, pro magum 3/8 pushrods, morrel link bars)
Here is what I recently pulled out of the motor.
I am now way under .650 lift cam with the same high quality components left over.
Springs ( ferrea) were only down 5% from stock specs.
High lift in road race conditions is one of the plauseable causes. Here are the rest...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-failure.html
Last edited by bowtiguy; 06-26-2011 at 01:14 PM.
#10
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Hi,
Just change the cam and springs with a good road race cam. You won't give up much power, just move the torque curve around and lower your shift point.
call Anthony or Bobby and get one of our Road race cams, springs and a set of G1 Sway bars and have at it.
The last clean fun left in America!!
Thanks
LG
Just change the cam and springs with a good road race cam. You won't give up much power, just move the torque curve around and lower your shift point.
call Anthony or Bobby and get one of our Road race cams, springs and a set of G1 Sway bars and have at it.
The last clean fun left in America!!
Thanks
LG
#11
Le Mans Master
hell no.
I ran the LPE GT-19 ( .678/.688) cam for 10K miles and 10 track hrs along with some very good components. ( CH rockers, pro magum 3/8 pushrods, morrel link bars)
Here is what I recently pulled out of the motor.
I am now way under .650 lift cam with the same high quality components left over.
Springs ( ferrea) were only down 5% from stock specs.
High lift in road race conditions is one of the plauseable causes. Here are the rest...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-failure.html
I ran the LPE GT-19 ( .678/.688) cam for 10K miles and 10 track hrs along with some very good components. ( CH rockers, pro magum 3/8 pushrods, morrel link bars)
Here is what I recently pulled out of the motor.
I am now way under .650 lift cam with the same high quality components left over.
Springs ( ferrea) were only down 5% from stock specs.
High lift in road race conditions is one of the plauseable causes. Here are the rest...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...r-failure.html
One picture is indeed worth zillions of words
#12
Le Mans Master
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Hi,
Just change the cam and springs with a good road race cam. You won't give up much power, just move the torque curve around and lower your shift point.
call Anthony or Bobby and get one of our Road race cams, springs and a set of G1 Sway bars and have at it.
The last clean fun left in America!!
Thanks
LG
Just change the cam and springs with a good road race cam. You won't give up much power, just move the torque curve around and lower your shift point.
call Anthony or Bobby and get one of our Road race cams, springs and a set of G1 Sway bars and have at it.
The last clean fun left in America!!
Thanks
LG
What are ballpark figures for race cam specs in LS6 with FAST 90, AFR 205's, LG Pro LT's?
#13
Melting Slicks
A call to the shop you are looking at may give you what you are looking for, but I haven't had much luck at that either.
Try Randy at DRM or John at 21st century muscle cars. They are both road racers and the only two shops I've delt with who are more than willing to share road race cam specs and their experiences.
FWIW, there are plenty of T1 guys out there running close to bone stock LS6's for years and years. crate engine prices have come down so much they just buy a new one when its time rather than a rebuild.
good luck in your search!
#14
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St. Jude Vendor Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11
A good road race cam for us is the largest cam that the rules will allow. It would also require regular rebuilds to keep things at the top of their game.
But for a track car that will double as a daily driver, I would suggest our G6 X1 cam. It has really good low end torque and it would be easy on your valve train.
Would you go faster with another cam? Yes but they would also need some care and feeding.
Thanks
Lou G
But for a track car that will double as a daily driver, I would suggest our G6 X1 cam. It has really good low end torque and it would be easy on your valve train.
Would you go faster with another cam? Yes but they would also need some care and feeding.
Thanks
Lou G
#16
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A good road race cam for us is the largest cam that the rules will allow. It would also require regular rebuilds to keep things at the top of their game.
But for a track car that will double as a daily driver, I would suggest our G6 X1 cam. It has really good low end torque and it would be easy on your valve train.
Would you go faster with another cam? Yes but they would also need some care and feeding.
Thanks
Lou G
But for a track car that will double as a daily driver, I would suggest our G6 X1 cam. It has really good low end torque and it would be easy on your valve train.
Would you go faster with another cam? Yes but they would also need some care and feeding.
Thanks
Lou G
Jonathan
#17
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Our GT2 car would make 490 rwhp on a good day.....it's the fact that it would pull well over 2.5g's in the corners, was 2700 lbs, downforce, gearing, and downforce that helps make them so quick.....total package
#18
Melting Slicks
Nothing against LG, they will sell tons of cams regardless of whether specs are listed or not. Some vendors want to get a ROI on the development work they've done on cams.
Personally, I've had experience with 3 different camshafts in my LS7 and I know the positives and negatives with each. So when it came time to choose a new cam, I wanted to know what the specs were to estimate what qualities I would be getting.
I also combined this with real world experience of the vendor. To make an educated choice, you really do need both. You also need to talk to more than one person to get an idea where you should be based on your car set-up and the goals you are looking for.
Case in point: I picked up my last cam from a shop that doesn't road race ( drag racers). you can see my recent post to tell how that worked out for me.