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ARP studs and extended aluminum lug nuts?

Old 07-01-2011, 01:50 AM
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Hercules Rockefeller
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Default ARP studs and extended aluminum lug nuts?

I am about to install a new set of SKF wheel bearings, and I thought it might be worthwhile to go with ARP wheel studs. Then, because the ARP studs are longer than stock, I thought I'm going to need to get some extended and/or open ended lug nuts. So I cam across these:

http://www.dropengineering.com/alumi...s-m12-1-5.html

Anyone have any experience? I know the weight savings isn't that much, but why not, esp since I'm going to have to get another set of lug nuts anyway. Plus they're black, so that might look nice on my black anodized CCW's.
Old 07-01-2011, 07:36 AM
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AU N EGL
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CCW has some too in their new online store

http://shop.ccwheel.com/
Old 07-01-2011, 08:42 AM
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mountainbiker2
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These seem to be okay. I put anti-seize on the threads. Keep the threads clean, or they kind of bind up.
http://949racing.com/forged-alloy-lugs-black-12x15.aspx

Oli has them too.

Steve A.
Old 07-01-2011, 10:25 AM
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RDnomorecobra
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Originally Posted by Hercules Rockefeller
I am about to install a new set of SKF wheel bearings, and I thought it might be worthwhile to go with ARP wheel studs. Then, because the ARP studs are longer than stock, I thought I'm going to need to get some extended and/or open ended lug nuts. So I cam across these:

http://www.dropengineering.com/alumi...s-m12-1-5.html

Anyone have any experience? I know the weight savings isn't that much, but why not, esp since I'm going to have to get another set of lug nuts anyway. Plus they're black, so that might look nice on my black anodized CCW's.
That's 100 bucks for a set of 16.
Old 07-01-2011, 11:33 AM
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Everett Ogilvie
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Originally Posted by mountainbiker2
These seem to be okay. I put anti-seize on the threads. Keep the threads clean, or they kind of bind up.
http://949racing.com/forged-alloy-lugs-black-12x15.aspx

Oli has them too.

Steve A.
I use these for my street wheels/tires. For the track wheels/tires I go back to Gorilla (steel) open lug nuts. With that said, I messed around with the strength calculations when I got the aluminum lug nuts and seem to recall that with the extra length the yield strength may be equal to shorter steel lug nuts (the ultimate strength is based on the surface area of the engaged threads).
Old 07-01-2011, 12:07 PM
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Hercules Rockefeller
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Those 949 ones look like they're the way to go, my buddy uses them and they work well. They are aluminum, so I'd expect to use a slightly lower torque spec than what's called for in the manual, but then again they have way more thread engagement, especially with the extended ARP studs. But then, if I use anti seize, that lowers the torque spec too. Any ideas what torque spec I should use if I'm using extended Al lug nuts with anti seize? This website http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx?mode=metric indicates that for a "dry" stud with a k-factor of 0.2, recommended torque is 80 lb-ft and maximum torque is 106 lb-ft. When using moly anti-seize with a k-factor of 0.11, recommended torque settings decrease to 44 lb-ft, with a maximum torque of 59 lb-ft. Sounds a little low to me... maybe anti-seize isn't the way to go on the wheel lugs?
Old 07-01-2011, 12:12 PM
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redtopz
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Originally Posted by Hercules Rockefeller
Those 949 ones look like they're the way to go, my buddy uses them and they work well. They are aluminum, so I'd expect to use a slightly lower torque spec than what's called for in the manual, but then again they have way more thread engagement, especially with the extended ARP studs. But then, if I use anti seize, that lowers the torque spec too. Any ideas what torque spec I should use if I'm using extended Al lug nuts with anti seize? This website http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx?mode=metric indicates that for a "dry" stud with a k-factor of 0.2, recommended torque is 80 lb-ft and maximum torque is 106 lb-ft. When using moly anti-seize with a k-factor of 0.11, recommended torque settings decrease to 44 lb-ft, with a maximum torque of 59 lb-ft. Sounds a little low to me... maybe anti-seize isn't the way to go on the wheel lugs?
I run SKF hubs with ARP studs and stock studs. I personally have never used anti-seize on my studs and always torque to 90 ft-lbs. Never had a problem with studs, even stock ones.
Old 07-01-2011, 12:22 PM
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Everett Ogilvie
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Originally Posted by Hercules Rockefeller
Those 949 ones look like they're the way to go, my buddy uses them and they work well. They are aluminum, so I'd expect to use a slightly lower torque spec than what's called for in the manual, but then again they have way more thread engagement, especially with the extended ARP studs. But then, if I use anti seize, that lowers the torque spec too. Any ideas what torque spec I should use if I'm using extended Al lug nuts with anti seize? This website http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx?mode=metric indicates that for a "dry" stud with a k-factor of 0.2, recommended torque is 80 lb-ft and maximum torque is 106 lb-ft. When using moly anti-seize with a k-factor of 0.11, recommended torque settings decrease to 44 lb-ft, with a maximum torque of 59 lb-ft. Sounds a little low to me... maybe anti-seize isn't the way to go on the wheel lugs?
For my car they spec 90 lb ft for the lug nuts (steel). I went back and forth about how much to torque the aluminum ones - bottom line is this - if they ARE as strong as the steel nuts due to the increased thread length, then they better be able to take the SAME torque. Otherwise all bets are off.... I torqued them to 90, with just a TOUCH of antisieze.
Old 07-01-2011, 07:01 PM
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As pointed out by Steve I have been using the 949 Racing lug nuts for three seasons now. Like the steel ones I replace them annually just to prevent problems with thread fatigue. I have never had thread problems with the aluminum ones, but I have with the traditional steel acorn nuts.

I torque 90 ft lbs and a couple of times per year I will lightly spritz the ARPs with silicon spray. It all works great for me and I change wheels as much as anybody I would presume.


Oli

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