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Crank bolt access. There has to be an easier way.

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Old 09-21-2011, 11:57 PM
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sperkins
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Nevermind... See post #3

Last edited by sperkins; 09-22-2011 at 01:26 AM.
Old 09-22-2011, 12:56 AM
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dvandentop
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crank bolt is a bitch no matter what usually
Old 09-22-2011, 01:23 AM
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sperkins
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Originally Posted by dvandentop
crank bolt is a bitch no matter what usually

I was trying to see if there was a trick to getting a socket on it to rotate the engine by hand. Needed to get #5 to TDC for leak down test.
I decided to pull the rockers instead. Much easier.

It's pretty clear I have a damaged exhaust valve.

Old 09-22-2011, 02:29 AM
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RX-Ben
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Carry some spares - you could have swapped that out in time for the Sunday TT sessions!
Get those PAC 1218s...zero issues during extended run times in the 6-7k range and I have the heavy ls-1 valves.
Old 09-22-2011, 09:39 AM
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Gordy M
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Had that problem several years ago, took a 24mm closed end wrench and a torch and offset the angle to attach to the wrench on the crank and clear the pulleys and belt.
Old 09-22-2011, 11:21 AM
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Jason
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Go pro on your forehead?
Old 09-22-2011, 11:24 AM
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davidfarmer
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put it in gear and rotate the back tires!
Old 09-22-2011, 11:33 AM
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travisnd
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If you don't want to spend a bunch of money the '02-'04 Z06 factory springs aka "yellows" can be had for $55 a set. I put a fresh set on my car when I set it up for track duty.
Old 09-23-2011, 12:31 AM
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sperkins
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Originally Posted by RX-Ben
Carry some spares - you could have swapped that out in time for the Sunday TT sessions!
Get those PAC 1218s...zero issues during extended run times in the 6-7k range and I have the heavy ls-1 valves.
Definitely will Ben. Thanks for the lead.
I pulled the drivers side head tonight and found 2 bent exhaust valves and I haven't even checked the other side. No wonder that Honda would pull be down the backstretch.







Old 09-23-2011, 10:11 AM
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travisnd
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Sweet... custom pistons. FYI no need to mess with them... just fix the valves and freshen up the heads and let 'er rip
Old 09-23-2011, 10:15 AM
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RX-Ben
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You may want to hand sand the sharp edges on the piston tops to avoid hot spots.
Old 09-23-2011, 10:24 AM
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travisnd
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Originally Posted by RX-Ben
You may want to hand sand the sharp edges on the piston tops to avoid hot spots.
I guess... but lots of guys with large cams flycut their pistsons anyway.
Old 09-23-2011, 10:31 AM
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RX-Ben
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Yep - I flycut the pistons in my RX7/LS1 setup for a big cam. My understanding is that getting rid of the sharp edges should be part of that (not totally authoritative, but step 10 - http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...t-pistons.html)
Old 09-23-2011, 10:35 AM
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drivinhard
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that engine will never die!

get some good springs in there and good rod bolts and turn it 7k in '12
Old 09-23-2011, 11:03 AM
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sperkins
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Originally Posted by travisnd
Sweet... custom pistons. FYI no need to mess with them... just fix the valves and freshen up the heads and let 'er rip
Yep that's the plan. It's dayshavoo of last year all over again.
I'm running out of spare cylinder heads. 2 down - 1 to go.

Originally Posted by RX-Ben
You may want to hand sand the sharp edges on the piston tops to avoid hot spots.
How would I avoid getting metal shavings down into the rings? The #5 cyl wall is already scored a pretty good bit in one spot, but I hope it doesn't affect compression too much.

Originally Posted by drivinhard
that engine will never die!
get some good springs in there and good rod bolts and turn it 7k in '12
No kidding. I should sell it back to GM when it finally does so they can figure out how to build more like it. Springs are going in, but I'm not messing with the rod bolts.
Old 09-23-2011, 11:12 AM
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travisnd
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Scott... bring the piston to TDC, put a ring of oil around the areas you want to sand. Take a fine emory file and just knock down the edges. Then wipe up the oil and clean up the piston. I've never done that but in my head it seems like it'd work.

I used a fine emory to sand a nick on a cam bearing on my old car... didn't have any issues with it.
Old 09-23-2011, 12:45 PM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by sperkins

I was trying to see if there was a trick to getting a socket on it to rotate the engine by hand. Needed to get #5 to TDC for leak down test.
I decided to pull the rockers instead. Much easier.

It's pretty clear I have a damaged exhaust valve.

So this is just a 100 or so psi air source plumbed into a plug hole, not an actual leak down test, if I understand the video correctly?

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Old 09-23-2011, 12:48 PM
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froggy47
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Originally Posted by RX-Ben
You may want to hand sand the sharp edges on the piston tops to avoid hot spots.
Old 09-23-2011, 01:23 PM
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RX-Ben
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I used painters tape to mask the top of the piston/cylinder walls, sanded (400 grit and Scotch brite) and then vacuum and remove. The oil is a good idea - wet sand if using paper.
Old 09-23-2011, 05:33 PM
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dvandentop
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damn got lucky with that valve pimp slap on the piston


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