waddisme

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Step 1 in tracing down my braking issue under load is eliminating caliper problems. Bought used set of calipers and sent to DRM who installed their ss pistons and new seals (thanks Randy). I painted them with VHT red:

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Seeing I have never unhooked the brake lines before, it looks like an odd kind of bolt. Special tool needed? How do you stop the fluid from draining out of system? Any other pitfalls I should be aware of?

travisnd

The bolt that connects the line to the caliper is refered to as a "banjo" bolt. You will see it has two holes in it. One for the fluid to flow into from the line and another to flow into the caliper. It is sealed by 2 copper crush washers; one on each side of the fitting. It is just a normal 13MM bolt.

I suggest going to your local GM and buying a bunch of new washers. They're an odd size I haven't been able to find. I've found generic ones that are the same ID, but not OD. So... to make it easy I just go to GM and get them.

To stop the system from leaking I disconnect the brake hose from the hard line and then cap it with a vacuum cap... works fine and won't leak. There is no good way to seal the end of the stock brake hose unless you get a nut to thread onto the banjo bolt and want to use two washers to seal it... waste of time IMO.

When re-connecting the hose to the hard line use flare wrenches if you have them. When threading the fitting into the brake hose make sure you have them lined up and aren't cross threading them... if you booger up the fitting on the hard line you'll have to cut off the flare, find a new fitting, then get a flaring tool and learn how to use it... so exercise caution and make sure you get the fitting going in properly. Tighten it finger tight then get your flare wrenches (normal ones work fine, but flares are better) and tighten it good n' tight.... you'll feel the fitting seat and just get it snug.... the fitting seals on the tapered end like a bleed screw, not the threads. If you over do it you can distort the fitting.



EDIT: Make sure you install the calipers w/ the bleed screws pointing up... I know it sound stupid, but people do it wrong from time to time. Happens more often in the rear where the bleeder is on the side of the caliper.

Falcon

All I did was disconnect the line from the old caliper, put new crush washers on the bolt and connect to the new caliper. Took maybe 30 seconds, and since the fluid had no pressure on it, it didn't leak but a couple of drops.

Just in case, have a rag handy to clean up.

Be sure and bleed the brakes when you're finished.

travisnd

Duh... he has new calipers ready to go... I was thinking about when you have to take the caliper off and rebuild it or something extended. Yeah... just have new crush washers ready to go and swap it out... no need to mess with the hard line since you have new calipers.

waddisme

Thanks.

froggy47

I would measure the new (used) ones to make sure they are not spread, unless you know who you bought them from & how they drove.



What is the brake problem these are going to fix?

travisnd

FWIW I measured my 120k mile stock calipers that I'd TT'd on for an entire year when I installed my Wilwoods and they checked out perfectly.

Granted TTing isn't T1 racing and the car is a good bit lighter than a T1 car.

waddisme

Under heavy braking, straight-line, solid as a rock. But if weight shifts slighltly from right to left or left to right, then pedal feels like one of the calipers is releasing and car becomes severely unbalanced. I am talking about very little steering/weight change to create change in balance. I have double checked every suspension bolt to make sure it is torqued to spec, especially the shocks. I have had 2 different sets of sways with different endlinks, issue still happens. It does it with my 18x10.5 square track wheel setup, or my 18/19 street/rain setup. I have the Pfadt adj shocks and it occurs at any of the settings I have tried. Just tapping brakes like at T3 or T10 at Vir doesn't make it happen. It is only after sustained hard braking like at T14 or sometimes T1. Best as I can explain.

Not sure if calipers will fix it or not, but $50 for calipers and $8 for can of paint and I can eliminate calipers as a variable. Plus now I have the ss pistons and new seals and new looking calipers.

FYI - pads are XP12/10, stock rotors, ATE fluid, Goodridge ss lines.

TIA.

beerkat

If you do not already have SS brake lines now would be a good time to change over, that is if you want SS brake lines.

0Randy@DRM

No problem at all! They look so nice and pretty now!!! That paint adds 35 horsepower also

Randy

travisnd

Have you replaced your hubs? Hubs on the way out may feel fine when you shake them, but distort under hard load and push the piston back in the bore some.

sperkins

The SS pistons is a smart upgrade, but I doubt the replacement calipers will solve your issue. It sounds more like an alignment problem to me. Are you turning off AH/TC?
You should drive my '03Z - it's downright scary.

froggy47

Alignment/suspension gremlin.

waddisme

Just had alignment done last year by Mr. David Farmer. I do sessions in Competition mode, but will try all off next time. Didn't think of that. I have almost 30 track days on the car, but only the last 6 have been with R compounds or slicks, so hopefully not hubs yet.

This was a cheap way to eliminate the calipers and upgrade my brakes.

Thanks.

JimbeauZ06

This your next variable.