ST-1 or ST-2 Motor Build "NEED HELP"
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
ST-1 or ST-2 Motor Build "NEED HELP"
My Katech motor blew last season, and I've been putting off the repair to save a few $ and make a decision on what class the car should be in.
The old set up was ST-1, but I only ran 2-races before it blew. Can't say that I like that group, or that my car was competitive. I'm not crazy about the speeds that the ST-1 group can hit with the very high HP cars (165+ at Road America).
My car is as follows:
1999 Corvette FRC
3150 lbs (I could go lighter if I needed to) - no penalty
Dog Box Trans (-.2 on the ratio)
Running Grand Am Continentals (options on widths) on 18" wheels
When I did the math, the Max HP #'s I was coming up with were:
ST-1 555 RWHP
ST-2 310 RWHP
Does this make sense? The ST-2 HP would be less than a normal stock LS6 motor.
HELP!
Don
The old set up was ST-1, but I only ran 2-races before it blew. Can't say that I like that group, or that my car was competitive. I'm not crazy about the speeds that the ST-1 group can hit with the very high HP cars (165+ at Road America).
My car is as follows:
1999 Corvette FRC
3150 lbs (I could go lighter if I needed to) - no penalty
Dog Box Trans (-.2 on the ratio)
Running Grand Am Continentals (options on widths) on 18" wheels
When I did the math, the Max HP #'s I was coming up with were:
ST-1 555 RWHP
ST-2 310 RWHP
Does this make sense? The ST-2 HP would be less than a normal stock LS6 motor.
HELP!
Don
#2
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Member Since: May 1999
Location: Plymouth MI Formerly Milford, MA MI
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W. Detroit Events Coordinator
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My ST2 Motor is 345-350 HP
Add a little weight, I have 150# of lead as my passenger
Also look at running a narrow slick say 275 or narrower and get the .4 back
Add a little weight, I have 150# of lead as my passenger
Also look at running a narrow slick say 275 or narrower and get the .4 back
#3
Drifting
I would go with DOT tires.
This would give you a required ratio of 8.9 to 1 with the dog ring trans or approx 353 HP at 3150 lbs. If you went to the 3200-3250 lb weight with ballast you could run 360-365 HP.
This would give you a required ratio of 8.9 to 1 with the dog ring trans or approx 353 HP at 3150 lbs. If you went to the 3200-3250 lb weight with ballast you could run 360-365 HP.
#5
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
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I would just leave an extra gallon of gas in the car and weigh in at 3155 - 3160
Run Hoosier A6's
That would allow 355hp with the dog box
With some minor aero that should be very competitive.
An LS1 or LS6 at this horsepower should run for at least 5 seasons if you don't spin it over 7000rpm.
If you are starting from scratch look at a Schwanke short block with their custom cam and then get the rest of the parts from the things the C5 Mafia has "borrowed" from other cars
Run Hoosier A6's
That would allow 355hp with the dog box
With some minor aero that should be very competitive.
An LS1 or LS6 at this horsepower should run for at least 5 seasons if you don't spin it over 7000rpm.
If you are starting from scratch look at a Schwanke short block with their custom cam and then get the rest of the parts from the things the C5 Mafia has "borrowed" from other cars
Last edited by geerookie; 12-05-2011 at 09:58 AM.
#9
Burning Brakes
#13
Racer
I had my LS1 balanced and blue printed. Katech rod bolts. ARP hardware, Katech timing chain. ATI Super Damper. Anything I could do to add strength to the motor, I did. I also updated the PCV system to a LS6 to help with crank case pressure which was the demise to my seals.
#15
My C4 ST2 car is 335/375T at the wheels at 2880 lbs. The motor is not an LS, its a 355 build on a budget. I bought the car for under 9K and its a lot of fun and competitive.
I'm so surprised when I read about how much money some have it their cars. Wow.
I'm so surprised when I read about how much money some have it their cars. Wow.