Totally and permanently removing traction control and active handling
#21
Race Director
Hi Bill
I agree that the pressurized canister should do exactly the same thing as parking next to your street wheels whose sensors are programmed into the TPMS.
I'm going to have to try an experiment, but I think you have an hour on a 2005-2006 C6 anyway - even with no sensors installed and no street tires around.
I think the 2007 model year decreased that to 30 minutes, and in 2009 it went down to about 20 minutes.
In that case, if the sensors are only sending out a signal once every 60 minutes, you're going to run into problems at the 30 or 20 minute point on the 2008 and newer.
The AH in the later model years may be more tolerant of running with no sensors than the earlier years - I know my '06 Z06 doesn't like it at all when one sensor is acting up, but if I have no sensors I have that approximately one hour before I have problems.
I'll try an experiment and report back.
Bob
I agree that the pressurized canister should do exactly the same thing as parking next to your street wheels whose sensors are programmed into the TPMS.
I'm going to have to try an experiment, but I think you have an hour on a 2005-2006 C6 anyway - even with no sensors installed and no street tires around.
I think the 2007 model year decreased that to 30 minutes, and in 2009 it went down to about 20 minutes.
In that case, if the sensors are only sending out a signal once every 60 minutes, you're going to run into problems at the 30 or 20 minute point on the 2008 and newer.
The AH in the later model years may be more tolerant of running with no sensors than the earlier years - I know my '06 Z06 doesn't like it at all when one sensor is acting up, but if I have no sensors I have that approximately one hour before I have problems.
I'll try an experiment and report back.
Bob
Last edited by BEZ06; 02-16-2012 at 03:07 PM.
#22
Burning Brakes
Any update on how the mod works? I almost ruined a track day in a new to me track C6 yesterday. Had to buy one sensor and have them moved to my second set of wheels. One of the shops mentioned installing the sensors in a small Kart (gokart) wheel/tire. i could see fashioning some drill and chuck to spin them prior to going out on track.. how ridiculous is that in addition to everything else we have to do.. Anyone else heard of this? I'm off to do more searching on this topic.
#24
Drifting
Hi Bill
I agree that the pressurized canister should do exactly the same thing as parking next to your street wheels whose sensors are programmed into the TPMS.
I'm going to have to try an experiment, but I think you have an hour on a 2005-2006 C6 anyway - even with no sensors installed and no street tires around.
I think the 2007 model year decreased that to 30 minutes, and in 2009 it went down to about 20 minutes.
In that case, if the sensors are only sending out a signal once every 60 minutes, you're going to run into problems at the 30 or 20 minute point on the 2008 and newer.
The AH in the later model years may be more tolerant of running with no sensors than the earlier years - I know my '06 Z06 doesn't like it at all when one sensor is acting up, but if I have no sensors I have that approximately one hour before I have problems.
I'll try an experiment and report back.
Bob
I agree that the pressurized canister should do exactly the same thing as parking next to your street wheels whose sensors are programmed into the TPMS.
I'm going to have to try an experiment, but I think you have an hour on a 2005-2006 C6 anyway - even with no sensors installed and no street tires around.
I think the 2007 model year decreased that to 30 minutes, and in 2009 it went down to about 20 minutes.
In that case, if the sensors are only sending out a signal once every 60 minutes, you're going to run into problems at the 30 or 20 minute point on the 2008 and newer.
The AH in the later model years may be more tolerant of running with no sensors than the earlier years - I know my '06 Z06 doesn't like it at all when one sensor is acting up, but if I have no sensors I have that approximately one hour before I have problems.
I'll try an experiment and report back.
Bob
Also, strangely, it's always the left front that triggers first.
Takes while to reset after parking next to the tires.
Need to try making the cylinder.
#26
Race Director
The TPMS computer in the car can only hold 4 sensor ID#'s in its memory.
If you're parked next to other Vettes, or driving down the street or around the track near other Vettes, your TPMS will only pay attention to signals received from the 4 sensors that are programmed into it.
Signals from from sensors other than the ones programmed into the car are totally disregarded.
Bob
#27
Sr.Random input generator
So why do you guys not have TPMS sensors installed for all your wheel sets? I do have street and track wheel sets, and they have their own TMPS sensors. With the device I got from Tirerack, I can reprogram the TPMS in literally less than a minute, so why bother with canisters, etc.? Besides don't you think checking your tire pressures (even if they're not incredibly accurate) right at the track before even doing cool down laps is very useful?
I believe the best solution would be having TMPS sets that broadcast identical IDs for corresponding locations (Same IDs for FR of both TPMS sets, etc.), so the car wouldn't even know the difference. I guess there is no such solution provided by any company yet. Orange provides such a solution for many cars.
I believe the best solution would be having TMPS sets that broadcast identical IDs for corresponding locations (Same IDs for FR of both TPMS sets, etc.), so the car wouldn't even know the difference. I guess there is no such solution provided by any company yet. Orange provides such a solution for many cars.
Last edited by X25; 04-26-2012 at 04:13 PM.
#28
I ran into this problem on my '07 C6Z yesterday at the track......I could not get my left front sensor in my track wheel/tire to reprogram with my TIPs tool, even though I tried twice. I tried it on the left rear just to see if the reset tool was working and it seemed to initialize the sensor just fine. So I decided to try it out without working sensors and the car immediately alerted me to a sensor problem and would not allow me to go into comp mode. It was light rain, so I decided to run with everything on, and it seemed ok. Later, the track dried out and I ran faster and that's when the car seemed to have a life of its own...I shut off Traction Control and ran a personal best time at Thunderhill (!), but as I continued to run the car seemed to apply brake or the engine seemed to lose power.....totally useless.
After lunch I tried resetting the sensors and it worked. I ran in Comp Mode, but found I could not run as quickly as earlier. Also, the car was squirrely in hard braking. I turned off everything and the car seemed faster and was definitely not squirrely under hard braking....wtf? Does this mean that the AH was causing me to be squirrely during hard braking? (I assume Comp mode turns off TC, and maintains AH in not-so-intrusive mode)
I am totally frustrated by the electronics and want to have the option to shut them off but not the ABS. I realize I can do this now, but I am aware that should I have future problems resetting the sensors I will be unable to control the "nannies". Is there a fuse I can pull to disable just the TC/AH in case I cannot reset the TPMS?
After lunch I tried resetting the sensors and it worked. I ran in Comp Mode, but found I could not run as quickly as earlier. Also, the car was squirrely in hard braking. I turned off everything and the car seemed faster and was definitely not squirrely under hard braking....wtf? Does this mean that the AH was causing me to be squirrely during hard braking? (I assume Comp mode turns off TC, and maintains AH in not-so-intrusive mode)
I am totally frustrated by the electronics and want to have the option to shut them off but not the ABS. I realize I can do this now, but I am aware that should I have future problems resetting the sensors I will be unable to control the "nannies". Is there a fuse I can pull to disable just the TC/AH in case I cannot reset the TPMS?
#29
Drifting
Not to run this discussion off course, but do other camps have the same issue? Porsche, Viper, Nissan, BMW? just curious. I guess it's good I'm too broke to move up to a C6.
thanks,
John
thanks,
John
#30
Sr.Random input generator
As long as you have TPMS set-up for your wheels, it causes no problems whatsoever, so you shouldn't worry about it. These are all about what happens when TPMS is not configured properly, etc.
#31
Verdict is not in for my problem yet, but I have the correct TPMS setup (worked for 8 previous track days) and yet I ran into my problem yesterday. I'll update if I ever get this figured out..........
#32
Burning Brakes
OK.... I have had 2 sets of track wheels w/sensors for the past 3 years. Last month I had one come apart in the tire and got a XX in the RF wheel. Since this issue I bought 4 sensors and built an air tube with 3" pvc so I'm going to check it out @ MPH in 2 weeks to see how this does, if I have no issues this will be the way I'll go from here. I want to get another set of wheels for rain tires and it would be nice to get around with out the sensors in the wheels and then get rid of the sensors in the wheels I have now.
Just my .02
Just my .02
#33
OK.... I have had 2 sets of track wheels w/sensors for the past 3 years. Last month I had one come apart in the tire and got a XX in the RF wheel. Since this issue I bought 4 sensors and built an air tube with 3" pvc so I'm going to check it out @ MPH in 2 weeks to see how this does, if I have no issues this will be the way I'll go from here. I want to get another set of wheels for rain tires and it would be nice to get around with out the sensors in the wheels and then get rid of the sensors in the wheels I have now.
Just my .02
Just my .02
#34
I ran with tpms for a couple of years until one of the sensors failed while I was on the track. The traction control tried to kill me.
Also, it happened to a pro instructor in a lead follow session in one of their fleet corvettes right in front of me. It pulled him completely off the track twice in one lap.
#35
Burning Brakes
My track tires require a cold temp of 20, hot of 28-30. We pull out from grid and drive 3/4 of the lap to warm up tires then line up and take the green on the first full lap. AH can't be turned completely off until it sees all 4 tires at a "safe"number and 20 isn't it.
#36
Burning Brakes
OK.... I have had 2 sets of track wheels w/sensors for the past 3 years. Last month I had one come apart in the tire and got a XX in the RF wheel. Since this issue I bought 4 sensors and built an air tube with 3" pvc so I'm going to check it out @ MPH in 2 weeks to see how this does, if I have no issues this will be the way I'll go from here. I want to get another set of wheels for rain tires and it would be nice to get around with out the sensors in the wheels and then get rid of the sensors in the wheels I have now.
Just my .02
Just my .02
#37
I built and used the 3" PVC canister last weekend after the car wouldn't give me the alleged 60mins of penalty free time during qualifying (so I ended up near the back). bought it and built it and programmed it all and made the first race and it worked perfectly te rest of the weekend. I have a battery kill switch which doesn't help; car needs 30 mins it seems to get it's brains after a full shut down. Keeping the car in accessory mode worked better for that learning curve.
I would greatly appreciate someone with real-world track experience with a C6Z chiming in here if the sealed canister method actually worked for them (or not). Then at least we can all either embrace it as a proven workaround or acknowledge that it was a good try and look for another solution.
#38
Instructor
Member Since: May 2009
Location: Philly'ish
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Do you track a C5 or C6? I keep seeing conflicting opinions about whether a sealed canister will work or not. It appears to me that it should not work for a C6Z, since the sensors go into sleep mode with no "spinning" activity and only output a signal every hour or so, which would exceed the 30 min (or less) wig-out time limit for the TC/AH.
I would greatly appreciate someone with real-world track experience with a C6Z chiming in here if the sealed canister method actually worked for them (or not). Then at least we can all either embrace it as a proven workaround or acknowledge that it was a good try and look for another solution.
I would greatly appreciate someone with real-world track experience with a C6Z chiming in here if the sealed canister method actually worked for them (or not). Then at least we can all either embrace it as a proven workaround or acknowledge that it was a good try and look for another solution.
#39
Burning Brakes
I would greatly appreciate someone with real-world track experience with a C6Z chiming in here if the sealed canister method actually worked for them (or not). Then at least we can all either embrace it as a proven workaround or acknowledge that it was a good try and look for another solution.