GeorgeZNJ

Simply put, accusump isn't working properly. I have the 3 qt canister, with an electrically operated soleniod by a 25 psi switch, wired to my accessory side of the ignition. When I turn the key, I have 12v to the "line" side of the pressure switch, on the other side of the pressure switch, the "load" side, I have 7.6v. If I disconnect the load side lead (to the solenoid) I measure 12v through the pressure switch, when I reconnect the solenoid, the voltage again drops to 7.6. I've spoken to a Canton trouble tech, and he insisted it was a bad ground. After I explained to him that I was using the same ground reference for all measurements, he suggested moving the ground(i'm an electricican 28 yrs) So I scraped the paint, drilled a new hole and re-grounded the system, no change. The accusump isn't holding any oil pressure after shut down and as of now cannot be used to for pre-oiling. After running Pocono for two days this weekend, I found oil dripping out from my fender(where the unit is mounted). The oil was on top of the canister, and I'm wondering if the oil pressure relief valve is opening because its faulty? I monitored my oil pressure on the dic all weekend and on the first lap of each session it would rise to a high of 71psi, additional laps it would run 38-40 psi. The second day, I disconnected the power going to the system and had the exact same symptoms of high pressure first lap, low pressure additional laps, which is why I think the relief valve is faulty. The air gauge on the canister was showing a high of 100 psi, which I don't understand at all. I estimate that I lost about 1/2 of a qt of oil over the two days. Before I just scrap the whole thing I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas? Sorry for the long winded post, but I'm trying to list all of the symptoms/readings to help with a solution, thanks. ps, I'm thinking that the solenoid could also bad?

GeorgeZNJ

bump, anyone?

ErnieN85

Check the switch, possible high resistance connection some where.
I'd put a Milliamp meeter inline with the coil and see what current it draws (one line on the battery and the other on the coil)
if the current isn't the same through the switch........
it just looks like a high resistance connection some where. you should have battery terminal voltage on everything on the high side with the switch closed.

Dirk Miller

I too had a similar issue with my accusump set up. It turned out in the end that I had a faulty pressure switch. Sometimes it would work and I could pre-charge my engine when I started it up; but much of the time the accusump would not discharge. My frustration was that if it was not always discharging prior to cranking the engine over, who knew if it would be working when I needed it during a track run. With this in mind, I installed a super bright Whalen red flashing light that would catch my eye when the pressure switch was activated on the track. But I never saw it except when I flipped the toggle to discharge before start up. This all ended after I replaced the switch with a new one. Since then, I have not had any problems, and for the past few months I have been sleeping better.

OCCOMSRAZOR

I finally got so frustrated with my solenoid problems that I ditched the whole thing and have a manual valve. Yes, there is a specific start up and shutdown procedure that I follow, but I get pre oiling every time.

I don't know why those solenoids are so finicky, but they are a PITA.

DOUG @ ECS

Wouldn't that eliminate the on track benefit of the Canton?




Dry sump it George...

Kubs

I dont have a pressure switch but I do use the Canton electric valve. Take yours apart and make sure the plunger inside is facing the correct way. Mine was installed backwards and was open all the time. It would not hold pressure either when the car was shut off. When you put 12v to the valve you should hear a pretty solid clunk inside.